FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[cstmwgn]

Thank you! If I am comprehending this issue is mostly about the alternator / welder upgrade you have been working on and can't be equally applied to the automotive world at large. I have a 250 amp fuse between my alternator (3G upgrade to 200 amps) and power junction and another 250 amp fuse back at the battery. Things work but I keep trying to understand why Holley (et al) and Vintage Air are both so adamant about "clean power".

[SuperBuickGuy]

I'm trying to understand (not challenging) - it seems to me that most of the aftermarket companies that sell things with circuit boards/computers want clean power. So how does the battery smooth out power surges when the wire from the alternator attaches to the + terminal at the battery while at the same time (often the same connector) the power wire for the EFI or A/C or whatever connects there as well? What keeps the surge from going back out the wire to the other components?

Please help me understand if I have wasted a bunch of time and money bring 1/0 welding wire forward from the battery to a junction area to power everything!

Let's start with I utterly loathe electrical anything.

I've avoided it at every chance, yet it seems this demon stalks me.

the tl;dr is proximity. Power travels the simplest path thus initially, I'll rely on internal resistance of the wire which powers the entire truck to aid in this.... that said, read the last paragraph for plan C.

When you lift from welding, you get a voltage surge through the system. With a standard welder, this isn't an issue because the transformer absorbs the energy. With this system, I don't have that - the power won't flow back through the rectifier to the alternator's coils thus you have a surge in the system. As we all know, power takes the easiest way to ground. That easiest way is the EFI because it's closest to the power source.

The proposed fix. Batteries absorb power, there is no limit to how much they'll absorb (well, until they explode but we're no where near that issue).... thus, rather then powering the entire system at the firewall and alternator (like it is now), I'm running the output from the rectifier all the way back to the batteries. Thus, if it surges, the closest absorber is the battery bank. It should mellow the surges, thus preserving the more delicate parts of the system. Key is, of course, that the charging system goes back to the battery then back forward to power the automotive systems.

If I see troubles with this, I have a part B that goes inline between the power wire (to the front of the car) that becomes a fuse to prevent the surge from getting to the electronics. (Can't remember the name of it right now, but this is what started me down this path because the only choices to place it was at the rectifier or by rewiring how the system charges.)

[cstmwgn]

...So here's the deal, I do not want the alternator having the shortest path for surges through the EFI. The 'fix' on this is put shock absorbers on the system... aka batteries. I'll run the power cable from the rectifier back to the batteries and let them absorb the surges that are part and parcel of the system design..

I'm trying to understand (not challenging) - it seems to me that most of the aftermarket companies that sell things with circuit boards/computers want clean power. So how does the battery smooth out power surges when the wire from the alternator attaches to the + terminal at the battery while at the same time (often the same connector) the power wire for the EFI or A/C or whatever connects there as well? What keeps the surge from going back out the wire to the other components?

Please help me understand if I have wasted a bunch of time and money bring 1/0 welding wire forward from the battery to a junction area to power everything!

[SuperBuickGuy]

so waiting on stuff for other stuff, so back to this stuff
so the biggest issue at the Rubicon (beside not having welding rod) was not having 2 batteries. I designed it and ran it with 2 batteries for awhile... and now it's back...

all the same except top posts and date (Optima Challenge gets me a great deal on batteriess)

new/old batteries

back to how it was built

So here's the deal, I do not want the alternator having the shortest path for surges through the EFI. The 'fix' on this is put shock absorbers on the system... aka batteries. I'll run the power cable from the rectifier back to the batteries and let them absorb the surges that are part and parcel of the system design. While I'm at it, I'll add a battery kill switch in the system as well... though I don't think the issue will be shutting the system down through a short, rather frying everything via a surge..... ah the joys of this.

[SuperBuickGuy]

drove it a fair bit yesterday, my initial impression is it makes it less streetable. Before, my on-center was natural, now, it gets a degree or so 'off'..... which is interesting because the 'help' only really happens at the edges. I get get more 'help' on center with a higher-pressure pump but think I'll give it 1000 miles or so before I do any more upgrades on this. As an aside, I never needed a steering stabilizer...

[65RHDEER]

Keen to hear how well this welder works.

[SuperBuickGuy]

time to mark this doneish
shiney rebuilt box. I'm so satisfied with my experience with Advantage.

almost looks like it did before, just in grey



it may seem weird to fill the PS pump while the cross shaft is disconnected but it was the best way I could get the ram bled

then onto the welder.... need to build the box but I'm getting close on this as well

[dave.g.in.gansevoort]

Sorta. Seriously, we were drawn to each other right from the start and were thinking marriage in 2 weeks! That was 33ish years ago - so far so good. And it was in MI with muckluks and snow clothes which maybe worked in my favor.

For those of you who have never met ME, the truth is she's a pushover for lost causes and puppy dog eyes.

[DanStokes]

after walking almost 20 miles in a pair (after an epic stuck)... .I don't ever want to see another pair

I just wore mine around town and maybe to shovel snow and they were OK for that. 20 miles - probably not.

[SuperBuickGuy]

True confessions - they were really moon boots. Wonder what happened to those?

after walking almost 20 miles in a pair (after an epic stuck)... .I don't ever want to see another pair

[DanStokes]

there are few women who can resist a feller in muckluks

True confessions - they were really moon boots. Wonder what happened to those?

[SuperBuickGuy]

Sorta. Seriously, we were drawn to each other right from the start and were thinking marriage in 2 weeks! That was 33ish years ago - so far so good. And it was in MI with muckluks and snow clothes which maybe worked in my favor.

there are few women who can resist a feller in muckluks

[DanStokes]

well, I'm not such a good looking guy - like you are - so I need all the layers I can get so that the ladies find me attractive. I've heard tell that ME, when she first saw you, swooned.

Sorta. Seriously, we were drawn to each other right from the start and were thinking marriage in 2 weeks! That was 33ish years ago - so far so good. And it was in MI with muckluks and snow clothes which maybe worked in my favor.

[silver_bullet]

[SuperBuickGuy]

I am SO glad I don't live in that! My internal thermostat is set to about 79 degrees F.

well, I'm not such a good looking guy - like you are - so I need all the layers I can get so that the ladies find me attractive. I've heard tell that ME, when she first saw you, swooned.