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FJ40 I call Shipwreck

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    pix pls....

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Friday and Saturday

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    So, when's the next outing?

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    installed, just a bit of polishing and paint




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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    tow bar mockup

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    That'll do quite well I'm guessing....

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    testing the new setup

    close is perfect

    very close but it's enough

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    Nice!

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    hooks in place

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    postscript. I eyeballed the alignment before I drove it. I actually measured it later, my calibrated eyeballs need calibration.... it had 1/4" toe out.... drives much better now

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by 65RHDEER View Post
    Man you are lucky you're not in Australia, welded steering components are a HUGE no no here.

    If something like a welded drag link or other steering component needs to be made it needs to be okayed by an engineer after it has been x-rayed to check the welds.

    Years ago when there was a lot of LHD to RHD conversions there were a lot of problems!!!
    What happened to you guys, you used to be Crocodile Dundee

    Truth be told, there's quite a bit that doesn't follow the letter of the law - but it's like anything else, unless you get a poster child (whose actions create a law), or you have a cop who wants to nail your hide, no one cares... beadlocks are illegal too.

    more directly to the cross shafts, they are tig welded with stainless filer and the threaded bit goes in beyond the weld so even side-loaded, it's pushing against solid steel.

    and.... welding cast frightens me far more then welding 1018

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  • Loren
    replied
    Looks tig'd, and with straight push-and-pull loading. Sometimes I make a practice part then break it to reality-check myself.

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  • 65RHDEER
    replied
    Man you are lucky you're not in Australia, welded steering components are a HUGE no no here.

    If something like a welded drag link or other steering component needs to be made it needs to be okayed by an engineer after it has been x-rayed to check the welds.

    Years ago when there was a lot of LHD to RHD conversions there were a lot of problems!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    time to make a new cross arm


    now we're getting there

    now in black


    these were a bad idea, seemed like a good idea at the time - hold the rope and shackle up... problem is it's too close to the narrow side of the winch plate so you couldn't get a shackle in place

    chop chop


    new ones that are longer... and since I plan on tow-barring this, these will work for that as well


    for those curious. the tie rod ends are
    ES2234R (right) and ES 2233L (with the hole) . Those are 7/8-18 right and left thread. The 2234 is important because otherwise the TRE won't clear the cross shaft TRE. Both are 1 ton chevy TRE

    the arm from the steering box to the right side high steer are ES2026R and ES2027L. These are necessary because they have a 30* range of motion the ones listed above have 12 degrees and it's not enough... they too are 1 ton Chev but are for the arm from the steering box to the pitman arm. They are 7/8-18 thread right and left as well.
    Personally, I like the RuffStuff bungs, they come with 1 1/4" 'nut' to make adjustment easier.
    Also, I used copper coat anti-seize in hopes that it doesn't seize again...the other ends were seized solid.


    Next up (after the tow bar) is lower the panhard bar so that it's parallel with the cross shaft. Right now if you accelerate, it will try to go left when you let off the throttle. Easy to adjust to, however, I can fix it so I will

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Good deal on the lathe!

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