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FJ40 I call Shipwreck

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I'll never understand why supplies don't tell the truth.... that is all.

    Parts arriving today, tomorrow and next week from different suppliers so the 'identity' is fully obscured....

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    Hard work and due diligence pays dividends!

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    checking clearances



    like this clearance

    fixed

    line up, clean up


    weld up


    and it fully turns


    one of the big reasons for this effort is to get a better turning radius at full stuff.... once I get the parts for the high-steer cross shaft (probably Thursday), this bit is done then onto all the other stuff

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    I think I know what happened to the hub. I should have figured a way to put the lock on

    as you can see, the 2nd ring isn't visible but the 1st ring is almost too far out. Fortunately there is a fix, cut the inner shaft down a bit




    time to fix the panhard

    cut and move back



    in no particular order, pictures

    a fun treat was every single bung was frozen solid to the TREs..





    high angle TREs (note the notch?) - yeah there was one issue.



    so I'm waiting on steering parts, tomorrow I'll finish the panhard and maybe get working on the seat belt bar on the cage.... presuming I can find the rest of the belts...

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Thanks for sharing!

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    the problem, there is wear where there shouldn't be wear

    basically, I think I was supposed to cut 1/4" off the stub shaft and put the circlip on the inner ring


    see the two cuts? I think the outer one needs to be cut off


    of all 4 major pieces, this is the only one that is undamaged

    and there is breakage inside... probably because the hub was full of aluminum from the wear

    the short of this is I think (going to check with Carl at Nitro tomorrow) I didn't shorten the stub shaft.... but since it's darn hard to add splines back, a phone call will happen before the chop saw happens.
    I may, tomorrow, go to Olympic and get a couple parts - while I'm at it I may see if I can't piece together some new-to-me hubs. These hubs are a hybrid and still not sure they work for this application.



    Hub assembly

    press the new studs in

    then press the pins in

    it's funny, growing up, my dad (still owns) owned a sheet metal fab shop and has a 200 ton 12' press brake. We never had a hydraulic press....


    front reassembly

    if anyone is doing this - do not put the high steer arm or studs on before you attach the hub
    and a problem

    I put the panhard mount in the way of the cross shaft... oops
    I have most of the parts to move it... only thing I don't have is the threaded bushings.... not just that, but I don't like the heims on the panhard so I'm going to replace those with something lined and lubable.



    so there's the steering connected, if I must, I can get the truck off the lift - that said, I want to finish this before I do.... the biggest problem now is the panhard is no longer parallel to the steering arm (bump steer issues arise from that). With that said, this is going to make this even more of a joy to drive and, bonus, allow me to turn sharply when a wheel is stuffed



    and I'll put the shorter arm back on to quicken the steering


    a good view of the next things I'm fixing



    thanks for following






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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    moving forward
    knocked the studs out, then decided to buy new ones.... so 2 day wait for that.... but got forward

    so easy with the right tool


    might as well lube the upper ball joint


    all apart and waiting on the studs


    back to this.

    the decision is I'm going to use the parts of this, but attach it to the the tow points - it's just not what I want, so making something new is the better choice

    also bought some spare wires


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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    For what you're doing with the FJ, full floaters are the only way to go.... and you build 'em like I prefer to...beefy is good...bullet proof is better...

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by irsa76 View Post

    You see that's where you straight axle guys have it all wrong. Having the truck try and kill you on the black top shouldn't be part of the adventure. Breaking a CV joint in the middle of no where is part of the adventure.
    Or in my case it's breaking the front wishbones, steering rack or the CAD/hubs.
    But at least I've got a nice strong rear axle, 31 spline 9.8". Shame it's semi floating, should have bought a Toyota.
    the issue toyota axles is their is a price premium.... and I'm well beyond the age where bragging rights or manufacturing purity is something that I do anything but scoff at.

    I planned on high steer initially but then talked myself out of it for two reasons - the first, is strength as the subsequent pictures will demonstrate, these knuckles are a lot stronger - especially where the high steer attaches....
    Here we go....

    I don't have the picture but it looks like new hubs will be part of this build....

    and a hard picture to take but it almost looks like there's cracks in the face (on the wheel side, not the rear).... going to inspect closer tomorrow - was hoping the digital picture would help me see... maybe it did?


    the knuckles



    and here we sit.... tomorrow starts with something else, but hopefully I can get this back together as well

    as for death wobble.... flexy suspension, 38.5" bias ply tires and it's an issue. That said, this will really help because I think the flex is because of the angle to the steering arm.

    I like adventures where I drive home towing the other guy.... my axles, are 30 spline front 35 spline rear - but 4340 steel. (which, works out strength-wise as a bit stronger then 35 spline front and 40 spline rear.... full float, of course)

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  • irsa76
    replied
    Originally posted by DanStokes View Post
    I thought Death Wobble was part of the adventure.

    Dan
    You see that's where you straight axle guys have it all wrong. Having the truck try and kill you on the black top shouldn't be part of the adventure. Breaking a CV joint in the middle of no where is part of the adventure.
    Or in my case it's breaking the front wishbones, steering rack or the CAD/hubs.
    But at least I've got a nice strong rear axle, 31 spline 9.8". Shame it's semi floating, should have bought a Toyota.

    Leave a comment:


  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan Barlow
    Changing things already , and not swapping to portal boxes ?
    Been on Pirate recently? what the heck, buddy? Everyone builds a car then improves it as time, knowledge and/or (mostly) finances allow.... so seriously.... wtf?

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    I thought Death Wobble was part of the adventure.

    Dan

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by 74NovaMan View Post
    I can picture where they go. They sure look nice. What makes these cooler/better than what's currently there?
    much stronger where you drill and tap (it also is drilled and tapped - and adds a 4th stud to make the arms more secure) for the high-steer kit. For those who don't know - high steer moves the cross arm higher relative to the ground. Not just that but it flattens the geometry of the steering cross arm (reducing or eliminating completely bump steer and death wobble)
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 24, 2018, 09:40 AM.

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  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    I can picture where they go. They sure look nice. What makes these cooler/better than what's currently there?

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    Just for You Aaron!
    Last edited by silver_bullet; May 23, 2018, 06:56 PM.

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