I'll never understand why supplies don't tell the truth.... that is all.
Parts arriving today, tomorrow and next week from different suppliers so the 'identity' is fully obscured....
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FJ40 I call Shipwreck
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checking clearances
like this clearance
fixed
line up, clean up
weld up
and it fully turns
one of the big reasons for this effort is to get a better turning radius at full stuff.... once I get the parts for the high-steer cross shaft (probably Thursday), this bit is done then onto all the other stuff
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I think I know what happened to the hub. I should have figured a way to put the lock on
as you can see, the 2nd ring isn't visible but the 1st ring is almost too far out. Fortunately there is a fix, cut the inner shaft down a bit
time to fix the panhard
cut and move back
in no particular order, pictures
a fun treat was every single bung was frozen solid to the TREs..
high angle TREs (note the notch?) - yeah there was one issue.
so I'm waiting on steering parts, tomorrow I'll finish the panhard and maybe get working on the seat belt bar on the cage.... presuming I can find the rest of the belts...
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the problem, there is wear where there shouldn't be wear
basically, I think I was supposed to cut 1/4" off the stub shaft and put the circlip on the inner ring
see the two cuts? I think the outer one needs to be cut off
of all 4 major pieces, this is the only one that is undamaged
and there is breakage inside... probably because the hub was full of aluminum from the wear
the short of this is I think (going to check with Carl at Nitro tomorrow) I didn't shorten the stub shaft.... but since it's darn hard to add splines back, a phone call will happen before the chop saw happens.
I may, tomorrow, go to Olympic and get a couple parts - while I'm at it I may see if I can't piece together some new-to-me hubs. These hubs are a hybrid and still not sure they work for this application.
Hub assembly
press the new studs in
then press the pins in
it's funny, growing up, my dad (still owns) owned a sheet metal fab shop and has a 200 ton 12' press brake. We never had a hydraulic press....
front reassembly
if anyone is doing this - do not put the high steer arm or studs on before you attach the hub
and a problem
I put the panhard mount in the way of the cross shaft... oops
I have most of the parts to move it... only thing I don't have is the threaded bushings.... not just that, but I don't like the heims on the panhard so I'm going to replace those with something lined and lubable.
so there's the steering connected, if I must, I can get the truck off the lift - that said, I want to finish this before I do.... the biggest problem now is the panhard is no longer parallel to the steering arm (bump steer issues arise from that). With that said, this is going to make this even more of a joy to drive and, bonus, allow me to turn sharply when a wheel is stuffed
and I'll put the shorter arm back on to quicken the steering
a good view of the next things I'm fixing
thanks for following
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moving forward
knocked the studs out, then decided to buy new ones.... so 2 day wait for that.... but got forward
so easy with the right tool
might as well lube the upper ball joint
all apart and waiting on the studs
back to this.
the decision is I'm going to use the parts of this, but attach it to the the tow points - it's just not what I want, so making something new is the better choice
also bought some spare wires
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For what you're doing with the FJ, full floaters are the only way to go.... and you build 'em like I prefer to...beefy is good...bullet proof is better...
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Originally posted by irsa76 View Post
You see that's where you straight axle guys have it all wrong. Having the truck try and kill you on the black top shouldn't be part of the adventure. Breaking a CV joint in the middle of no where is part of the adventure.
Or in my case it's breaking the front wishbones, steering rack or the CAD/hubs.
But at least I've got a nice strong rear axle, 31 spline 9.8". Shame it's semi floating, should have bought a Toyota.
I planned on high steer initially but then talked myself out of it for two reasons - the first, is strength as the subsequent pictures will demonstrate, these knuckles are a lot stronger - especially where the high steer attaches....
Here we go....
I don't have the picture but it looks like new hubs will be part of this build....
and a hard picture to take but it almost looks like there's cracks in the face (on the wheel side, not the rear).... going to inspect closer tomorrow - was hoping the digital picture would help me see... maybe it did?
the knuckles
and here we sit.... tomorrow starts with something else, but hopefully I can get this back together as well
as for death wobble.... flexy suspension, 38.5" bias ply tires and it's an issue. That said, this will really help because I think the flex is because of the angle to the steering arm.
I like adventures where I drive home towing the other guy.... my axles, are 30 spline front 35 spline rear - but 4340 steel. (which, works out strength-wise as a bit stronger then 35 spline front and 40 spline rear.... full float, of course)
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Originally posted by DanStokes View PostI thought Death Wobble was part of the adventure.
Dan
Or in my case it's breaking the front wishbones, steering rack or the CAD/hubs.
But at least I've got a nice strong rear axle, 31 spline 9.8". Shame it's semi floating, should have bought a Toyota.
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Originally posted by Dan BarlowChanging things already , and not swapping to portal boxes ?
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Originally posted by 74NovaMan View PostI can picture where they go. They sure look nice. What makes these cooler/better than what's currently there?Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; May 24, 2018, 09:40 AM.
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I can picture where they go. They sure look nice. What makes these cooler/better than what's currently there?
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