FJ40 I call Shipwreck

[SuperBuickGuy]

next time I'll be sure and have the dogs well-fed in advance.

[DanStokes]

I've heard that Buick will get you - with his Buick-like mass as he comes at you, demanding an ear rub. Knucklehead will do that too but he's only 60 lbs or so.

Dan

[silver_bullet]

Lugnut will pull/push you to a seated position, and then fetch a toy, demanding playtime...

[SuperBuickGuy]

body off again


rebuild clutch master.. sometimes heat is required






ran a fuel line and finished up the exhaust (gaskets)


then a big project


drill some holes


screw it on


cuss


pat back for clever relocation


where to mount the caliper



thinking here

[STINEY]

That sure looks a lot like the caliper on a '91 Polaris Snowmobile.........

[SuperBuickGuy]

snowmobiles don't need brakes.

[Deaf Bob]

Mount caliper where dust does not fall onto seals (top) and get filled with dirt (bottom)
Obvious when ponder a bit? No?

[SuperBuickGuy]

I think that's about the only spot for it - the only issue that I see so far is it will be an utter pain to adjust once the body is back on... I have to surround the caliper with a bracket.


there are no seals - it's basically a screw that pushes the arm against another rivet that pushes one pad into the caliper and pulls the other one into the caliper. it is most certainly not something you'd want to use to stop a car - just to hold it in place....

[SuperBuickGuy]

Oh, I thought you were talking about the caliper... there's a seal around the output but whatever dust from the caliper will be minor compared to the abuse I'll heap on it making Mother Nature scream.

[silver_bullet]

looks damned good to me!

[Deaf Bob]

Oh, I thought you were talking about the caliper... there's a seal around the output but whatever dust from the caliper will be minor compared to the abuse I'll heap on it making Mother Nature scream.

. .

[SuperBuickGuy]

for the want of bolts... onto another corner while tomorrow I'll go track down the bolts I need

air filter and water/oil separator mounted


last weld for this side of the exhaust - I honestly haven't decided how elaborate I want to get with the outlets... but this is enough to make it make some noise.


onto the back - braces


now when I push down on the end of the tire carrier, the bumper moves with the suspension - call it the 220# leverage test

[SuperBuickGuy]

Dana 300 transfer case brake for Novak 32 spline output

first some studs to mount to


bottom bracket




upper bracket (round 1)


I like how it's compact, but working on it would be a pain.... still haven't decided, fortunately I can mount it either way




upper bracket round 2


ready for paint




paint is drying... that should hold the vehicle in place to the limit of the pads.... if not, I have other ideas....
I suppose this saved me some money - but the truth is there isn't a Dana 300 transfer-case brake option... some that are close if you use the other 32 spline upgrade (Advance Adapters), but I liked some features on the Novak 32 spline so fabrication was required....

cost was about $100 and most of that was the wilwood go-kart brake (iirc, $68). I used the wilwood brake because it floats on the rails, it's light, and it's dead-simple... one thing I wasn't thrilled about - the holes around the flat-u-joint are both metric and SAE. That means that 1/2 are 1/4" -24 thread bolts, the other .... ummm, whatever it is is just small enough that it will break screws if you try to drive them in. I'm not sure why Novak did it that way (nor am I sure why they used metric bolts for the u-joint adapter).... not a huge deal, but certainly one you should be aware of if you plan on doing what I did.

[SuperBuickGuy]

assembled picture of brake


worked on the tire carrier and battery box. I've been considering tying the batteries together, and I'm certain that is what I'm going to do... if it was an automatic, I'd get concerned about running on battery down so it won't start, I can pull start this since it's a manual transmission so I'm simply not going to worry about it. It will be nothing, later, to divide the systems - but at this point it will be faster to wire it was one system.... so that's what I'm going to do.

I didn't like how the carrier worked - so I think I'll do load-carrying with a bearing, and center using acetel, delrin, or UHMW as the bottom bearing. As you can see, I have all those materials already so it's merely a matter of deciding which to use

delrin

is normally used for suspension points - but it does not flex.... at all, it is a unidirectional material but it will outlast the car once installed..

home depot sells a shop mat that I've yet to actually use as a shop mat


but it makes great padding for dog crates, and batteries...

[Deaf Bob]

The leaded clamp terminals tend to corrode and come off in derby cars..
I like using the group 31 (I think) batteries that have a stainless post and use eye ends on the cables..
Also, I found that if you wire the batteries up like jumper cables, the extra battery will not work fully..
Run the power stuff off one battery, and the ground going off the other battery.. Still + to +, neg to neg..
Forces both batteries to work equally.. It will be obvious when batteries are winding down after using the winch
I checked voltage on both batteries, before the derby.. While set up jumper cable style (power and ground from one and short jumpers to 2nd battery) the 2nd battery had more voltage..
Of course after sitting a few minutes they are supposed to equalize..

I also found out using mis matched batteries with different amp hours/CCA the smaller one will kill the larger one..
Same deal with trying to use a deep cycle with a regular battery, the deep cycle will pull the regular battery down to it's state of discharge.

I see guys running mismatched batteries and wonder why their car won't start any more half way thru the event, only to fire up just fine afterwards or with a short jump.

Are you going to add a pos post remotely to jump off of if needed? You will need only one..