out of an abundance of curiosity and the desire to really irritate the folks who seem to think a plan is something to follow - I took this picture
I think that shaft is give or take the same - 27 spline, it mic's the same - so an adapter and the ax-15 would bolt up to the np 205... but it's longer
anyway, with that Stiney/Beagle distraction put off to the side... I needed my engine stand back so I assembled the other motor and turbo 350 to start some motor mounts
Of course, like all things SBG, I had other crap... err.. stuff to do first like remove the last of the stock steering components... this FJ40 was so special, it had 2 steering stabilizers... neither of them attached on both ends.
I can't wait to try the cover to see if I can get the transmission this far above the frame... if I can, then there will be a flat to the bottom of the frame skid plate (better break-over angles)
I'm also not sure it's going to be back this far... rear drive line angles are going to be an issue with the 2.5 mile travel rear suspension (okay, a slight exaggeration) so the motor could move forward... but I'm going to run a mechanical fan.... anyway
stay tuned for the next exciting installment of how the FJ40 rolls.
no pictures, but the crank in the newest 350 is garbage... no worries, I have the other crank - and I pulled the mains and the rear most cap off - and it's fine... not great, but fine. were this a top-drawer build, I'd have it, at minimum, polished.... but I can't catch a nail and there's no real ridge between the rods... however, I need to press new cam bearings in the motor. I also got a ton of casting sand out - so I'm going to pay to check for cracks and for flatness before I put this one together.
spinning .030 off one side when the crank doesn't get oil.
fortunately, I have more
and good pistons/rods
bonus on the block, it spun the cam bearing so much that they're completely copper - frankly, it's a first for me - normally if they starve that long for oil; the crank is welded to the main caps - yet not these, the mains looked prestine .... so I'll be putting new cam bearings and having the block hot tanked/pressure cleaned
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; October 2, 2014, 09:29 PM.
.... so I'll be putting new cam bearings and having the block hot tanked/pressure cleaned
Not to interrupt your lab in a tennis ball factory work ethic or anything, but I think you want to clean/check *then* put the bearings in... hope this helps.
Not to interrupt your lab in a tennis ball factory work ethic or anything, but I think you want to clean/check *then* put the bearings in... hope this helps.
really? is that how you do it? you're sure that's not a Ford specific procedure? weird - I'll have to ask crotchety, old machinist dude if that's true.... better yet, I'll tell COMD that you said to do it that way this should go great, I bet he didn't know that...
I use two machine shops - one is Mr. "you need to convince me to do what you want to do"/"I'll get to it eventually" and COMD, Mr. Convince is the better machinist, but COMD gets it done for a reasonable amount... the first time I was in COMD's shop, he was chewing a guy out for some major sin of buying the wrong oil filter for a 300 Buick motor that he rebuilt... and I'm not talking mild... cussing, yelling, eventually the guy with the Buick told COMD to "blank off" and left... I almost did to, but COMD has a Jekyl / Hyde personality and so far, we've been okay... and for the record, COMD was totally wrong - but no matter.
Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; October 3, 2014, 06:26 AM.
Crotchety old machinist dude sounds like a hoot. Makes you wonder what Smartass "I'm superior to you" punk with a CNC machine center is gonna turn into when he gets old?
no one is perfect, so COMD is just that... still, I'd rather COMD than punk... and their worst qualities combined are not worse than Jim Green - you know the type, the one who claims he knows what he's doing, doesn't have a clue, then when he's called on it - blames the tape measure.
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