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  • I figured They'd come around soon! Congratulations!
    Patrick & Tammy
    - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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    • locks:
      adjustment required



      lots of crap to store

      getting there


      extra box


      I could use it here, but I won't


      and there we go, everything in its place and nothing loose to kill me
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • Whaaa? No side facing rear seats?

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        • safe space for a Mastiff
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
            safe space for a Mastiff
            Better yet, gonna pad it?

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            • It's already insulated and bedlined....
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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              • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                It's already insulated and bedlined....
                Soften it up for poor Buick's sharp elbows...

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                • I think he'd prefer having some traction.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • Buick? Traction? Blasphemy!😠
                    Patrick & Tammy
                    - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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                    • So I think after spending yet another day working on the hardtop, that I'm going to go with a soft top. I don't have a set of good doors (that's another $500), the rubber seals for the doors and windows ($600), or coatings/glue ($200). There is another top locally to me, but that's $600 and really doesn't save me any money because it doesn't come with doors. I can get a best top with doors for about $1,200... I want a hardtop, but at this point the need v. want along with "done now" vs. "done after several more days of work" is starting to weigh in favor of a soft top then, should I fix the doors or find new doors and spend time rebuilding the roof rail.... I'll have both. And I would like a trollhole top, but that's $2500 with the top and the hoops.

                      pictures in awhile
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • Not much to report tonight.... took Buick out for a spin, not happy except that he's with me so on balance, it's 'ok'


                        I cheated loading him - getting him out took help in the form of Kinsey.


                        clutch is too stiff, gas pedal is, again, sticky so some things to resolve... still deciding what's next. I think what's next short term is I'll take some very good advice to enjoy the build and go wheeling
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • There ya go.. You were gettin too picky.. But a stuck pedal downhill ain't sweet.. But it'll make it exciting..

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                          • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post


                            kind of weird, they call welds with impurity in it oxygenated welds... strange, no?

                            If you use compressed air in your shock and there is a leak in your bladder, oil and air will mix together. So at your next landing, your shock will turn in to a diesel combustion engine (if you use a flammable oil)
                            If you use argon, it will be safe because it's a inert gas and doesn't react with oil. But the heat capacity ratio of argon is higher (1.67), so if you compress the bladder, pressure and temperature will increase more as when you use nitrogen.

                            and nitrogen molecules are larger than oxygen - thus, it doesn't infuse as well into the oil (nor, if you put it in your tires) does it escape out of the tire as easily)

                            I'd love to see that in action lol. We typically use nitrogen in race shocks as it is typically very dry, whereas compressed air generally carries a significant amount of moisture (provided you're just getting it from a compressor - not using a refrigerated dryer etc.). The moisture greatly affects the pressure build up with heat (same reason to use nitrogen in tires - keep the pressure more consistent, it's never constant, but is closer - the added bonus of larger molecules not leaking as easily is nice too)

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                            • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post


                              kind of weird, they call welds with impurity in it oxygenated welds... strange, no?

                              The problem with oxygen is it burns and unless you displace it, it will cause hot spots in the weld (along with allowing the tungsten to overheat because, wait for it, the oxygen burns)... so all those little holes in an oxygenated weld was from combusted oxygen.... cool, no?

                              Also - Oxygen does not burn, it is an oxidizer, but it is not flammable...... it will oxidize materials within the weld (causing the holes/imperfections etc), however it absolutely does not burn itself.

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                              • Originally posted by chevy3100truck View Post

                                I'd love to see that in action lol. We typically use nitrogen in race shocks as it is typically very dry, whereas compressed air generally carries a significant amount of moisture (provided you're just getting it from a compressor - not using a refrigerated dryer etc.). The moisture greatly affects the pressure build up with heat (same reason to use nitrogen in tires - keep the pressure more consistent, it's never constant, but is closer - the added bonus of larger molecules not leaking as easily is nice too)
                                I'm tempted to take an old Monroe air shock and try just that ;)

                                Nitrogen isn't expensive, but it costs more then compressed air so for tires (which get their air changed often), it doesn't make a lot of sense to fill them with nitrogen.
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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