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  • The pirate thread went off the rails early for some reason. Not every 4x4 is for climbing boulders at 80 mph.......

    So anyways.

    Do you have a wheel travel # you are aiming for?

    I know - as much as possible - is always good, but is there a specific uptravel and droop # you need for the SAR trails? I've been on some of the pedestrian climbing trails, fitting an actual road vehicle up one of those is no mean feat.

    You've probably already done it, but what happens if you graph out your 96" wheelbase, center the transfercase, and work out the geometry angles on the driveline to see what your maximum wheel travel would be?

    Then just link it as close to the center (transfercase yokes) as possible, and run bumpstops and limiting straps to keep the driveshafts alive?

    I'm probably being overly simplistic.....but that's my offroad butt dyno idea-maker at work.

    I really really liked this fellows use of a narrowed C3 Corvette rear IRS in his CJ2A. Dual purpose rig (road, rock, sand - is that still dual-purpose?) when I asked him what made him decide to run the IRS the answer was simple. "it eliminates the too-short rear driveline issues as the 3rd member is in a fixed location, travel is what it is."

    Beautiful. Adjust the driver (or learn to drive the vehicle) and enjoy the ride.



    I don't think it is widely realized that factory linked fronts and rears have been in use for decades in multiple vehicles.






    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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    • Found an example of linking the rear of an FJ40. This is what I am interpreting that you have in mind, only with the factory body instead of that jungle-gym.



      Not sure if he stretched the wheelbase or not.

      Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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      • This quarter-elliptic setup is pretty cool. http://www.toyotawiki.org/index.php?...40_rear_4-link

        Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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        • I'm betting a 100-4 that you've already seen this one. This is what I imagined your project to look like. Was I far off?

          Ok guys here it is. I am in the middle of my project. I doing a 4 link rear and 3 link front with coilovers on my 40 with 80 axles. I am a newbie, this is my first build so feel free to let me know what you think, I am always open to any and all suggestions. I have the links tacked in place and...


          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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          • Even Pirate has one. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...6-0-liter.html

            By the way, this is how I see LOTS of different vehicles linked at SilverLake (where I do the offroad thing, its our gearhead mecca)

            Granted, some center clearance is lost, but it just flat-out seems to WORK.


            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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            • Saw a quarter ellipic system on an FJ 60.. It could climb a stump 4-5 feet off the ground on one side and the other stays planted.. That thing went everywhere!

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              • Copy your Disco's setup and you'll be golden.

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                • this is identical to what I'm building... but using the link system that you posted, Stiney..this one uses a similar system, but there are a few, minor differences.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                  • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
                    Even Pirate has one. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...6-0-liter.html

                    By the way, this is how I see LOTS of different vehicles linked at SilverLake (where I do the offroad thing, its our gearhead mecca)

                    Granted, some center clearance is lost, but it just flat-out seems to WORK.


                    same brackets, opposite set up. He's got a triangulated 4 link on both ends. On top of that he triangulated the lower arms rather than, more commonly, the upper arms. I'm sure he did that because it'd be a PITA to triangulate the upper arms on the front (if it's even possible)....

                    seriously, spend some time on ICON's site - that's the blue print... even to the point that I may use a Dana 44 front Dana 60 rear like they did...
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
                      The pirate thread went off the rails early for some reason. Not every 4x4 is for climbing boulders at 80 mph.......

                      So anyways.

                      Do you have a wheel travel # you are aiming for?

                      I know - as much as possible - is always good, but is there a specific uptravel and droop # you need for the SAR trails? I've been on some of the pedestrian climbing trails, fitting an actual road vehicle up one of those is no mean feat.

                      You've probably already done it, but what happens if you graph out your 96" wheelbase, center the transfercase, and work out the geometry angles on the driveline to see what your maximum wheel travel would be?

                      Then just link it as close to the center (transfercase yokes) as possible, and run bumpstops and limiting straps to keep the driveshafts alive?

                      I'm probably being overly simplistic.....but that's my offroad butt dyno idea-maker at work.

                      I really really liked this fellows use of a narrowed C3 Corvette rear IRS in his CJ2A. Dual purpose rig (road, rock, sand - is that still dual-purpose?) when I asked him what made him decide to run the IRS the answer was simple. "it eliminates the too-short rear driveline issues as the 3rd member is in a fixed location, travel is what it is."

                      Beautiful. Adjust the driver (or learn to drive the vehicle) and enjoy the ride.
                      travel, front 4 up 10 down = 14", rear I'd like 4 up 8 down... but we'll see. I'm thinking about increasing the rear wheel-well height when I open up them up 3 1/2" after I move the axle back. oh yeah, and I'll probably use air bump stops.... and if they do manage to come out with a full-size rated air spring (FOX), probably that...

                      the issue was most didn't have a clue (and we all know how patient I am with fools) what they were talking about and the others were ones who did didn't want to lose business at their shops.... did you notice that it wasn't until page 7 that someone finally said "here's the minimum rear driveshaft length"? of course, my length is like 10" longer than what he suggested - so then he stopped talking... Pirate is Yellowbullet without the porn - but to me same, useless attitude. Lots of the people on Yellowbullet - I know them IRL and I knew them when they started Pirate... back when Pirate was all about looking good on the Rubicon and the outlaws who went to Fordyce and Johnson Valley... problem is, the same people are there - and they think their way is the end-all-be all.

                      but the biggest issue I had with them - I do this for fun - and they don't... to them it's all about pretty welds and flexible (I think I called one of their suspensions stupid - because it was, if you sat in it, you'd roll the vehicle) suspensions...
                      Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; November 14, 2014, 06:25 PM.
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • Are the motor mounts done, or are you going to gusset them to add more welded surface area to the frame?

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                        • I agree. If bored some day, start a thread on how those "row of dimes welds actually aren't as strong as a nice bead". Was looking for some good online pictures of the iCON setup....couldn't find anything but 3/4 frontal glamour shots. This project is going to be so cool.
                          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                          • you asked











                            I'm using a different box/location but this is theirs




                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • Now that is beautiful. I see why icon commands the price that they do.......that's pretty much what my dream willys has under it. Should have awesome capabilities.
                              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                              • Axle change... I'm going a bit stronger than I originally planned... I just traded my old car trailer for a set of ford axles. Front is a high pinion 44, rear is a dana 60 - all 8 lug (which is fine since I have 8 lug wheels)... yes, I know, the pinion is on the wrong side, it won't be when I'm done since I will narrow them to '40 width plus 2"... they're also 4.56 gearing - which was kind of the bit that got me interested...


                                and why I'm swapping the trailer for them... the trailer a 14' trailer that isn't wide enough for a pickup, also, it gets hurt quite badly when I haul my case 1840 on it.... now, I have the right excuse to build a new, tougher trailer... thinking 16'-17' with airbag springs and hydraulic brakes.
                                Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; November 17, 2014, 06:21 PM.
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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