I should be driving this tomorrow
but first, center shaft
it was every bit the pain I remember from last time I did this
shiny bit installed
and pretty much ready to go in
almost in
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FJ40 I call Shipwreck
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the fun continues (and never ends)
now with the right backlash
oh but we're not done, somehow this managed to increase in size so it wouldn't go into the case - whipped out the lathe and fixed it but still puzzled
half filled case
and now with shiny cover on half filled case
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I need to get this done, but ... not today... dang
Instructions "grind a slot".... uh, how large? why?
it's so you can assemble the t-case - but no dimensions..
but plenty of grinding
the point of the slot - so you can rotate the carrier into the case with the upper and lower gear sets in place.... now you know
it's kind of cool the engineering - the slot is so it clears the gear
starting to assemble and one of several issues.... in this case, the spacer is Wayyyyyy too thick
so that's one slight to JB Conversions.... the biggest problem I have with them is they, apparently, don't have a tape measure because there's a lot of "install with proper backlash".... ???!!!! or that slot.... no dimensions.... or explanation for that matter - like the shift rod - why the slot, it's once you start assembling that you see why - but it'd be soooo helpful to know that.... with that, it's not impossible.
and it's kind of endemic for suppliers.... in this case, Novak.
I like Novak - very helpful, nice looking stuff.... HOWEVER
the lip on the left shouldn't be there because you need to put a shim here - so no machined correctly at all. The second, on the right... I took the case apart and worried I had metal on metal wear.... but no, that's just the way they machined it.... sloppy. so tomorrow the parts from both JB and Novak go to a machine shop to get fixed....
not really a complaint - they could do better but I'll still buy and recommend them.... but with a few warnings.
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blew the t-case apart
I upgraded the front output to a 32 spline so need to get this machined
top gear, old, bottom gear new
hopefully I can get the machining done by Friday then reassemble on Sunday with a Tuesday reinstall....
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I don't get why you people think I get a lot done....
the kid learning that 4x4s don't have a lot of room to work
I really need to talk to the guy who built this thing.... having to drop the rear suspension to get the t-case out is bs
but I bench pressed it out last night.... hopefully tonight I get get it blasted apart.... it needs to get some minor machine work done for the upgrade
of course that means full disassembly....
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more shiny parts - but the main part won't be here until next Wednesday
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time to start on the 4:1 conversion
got stopped almost as quickly as I started... I'm going to replace the front output with a 32 spline (which means this case has all the mods)
drained the oil but I may take it off the lift for a day or two while waiting for the last batch of parts
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Sooo....
right now the transfer case has a low gear of 2.62:1. Let me present 4:1
and very stout
of course, the 'coming soon' is pulling the t-case and pulling it completely apart, then doing a bit of machining then put it all back together (hopefully not unintentionally lightened)
and the welder...
I better get to work
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the pricks at pirate said, when I built this rig, that I'd hate driving it without hydro assist. They were wrong, it would fly at 75/80 mph down the freeway and drive straight and true. Now? 60 seems like the limit. I'm going to try some alignment tricks to see if I can make it track true again - but right now, it's a wandering beast. Basically the hydro assist is acting like a powered stabilizer and you have to constantly fine-correct the steering. On smooth ground - it's not even that good there but on rutted roads.... uff da.
Honestly, I'm considering removing it then installing it at trailheads ... that or trailering (which I loathe the thought).
With that said, I'm not sorry I put it on there - it does help, especially when crossed up, get my full range of turning back.
So what's next. Install the welder. But at the same time I'll put a bit more caster at the wheels and try a bit of toe-out. Right now, it's neutral and IIRC 3* ....
The other choice would be move the sway bar to the front (which will be a challenge), then remove the rear sway bar. The problem with that is it would screw with the IC traction I get from its design. A reminder, when I nail the throttle, the triangulated 4 links lift right about at the point where the input shaft meets the flywheel. By having the rear sway bar, it plants both wheels and up I climb. The front does some pulling but mostly it's doing the steering.... ah the fun of making a rig that is safe to drive at highway speeds and good on the trails.....
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Originally posted by Captain View Post4 of the 5 voices in my head agree !!
I don't listen to that 5th voice....he shows up when I'm drinking and wants me to Take A Fat Chick Home....
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4 of the 5 voices in my head agree !!
I don't listen to that 5th voice....he shows up when I'm drinking and wants me to Take A Fat Chick Home....
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for those who don't believe I have ADD. I have 4 projects going simultaneously.... perfect. I don't suffer from ADD, I enjoy every minute of it.
this is a tease for what's coming with the welder - it's solved my voltage spike concern
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and it's done. Now I have the capability of at least linked battery welding... and a solution is coming for the surge problem
also straightened the grill
The solution is a surge protector they make so that you can weld on a rig without disconnecting the battery.... welder soon
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got the batteries mostly wired... see that terminal connector on the left?
it disappeared.... spent an hour looking for it.
ah well, it'll be done tomorrow.
and that means I can now weld with my '40. Still putting the engine powered version on it, but with 2 batteries, I can weld
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