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1984 Chevrolet C10 LWB - 507" Cadillac

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  • #31
    You hit the Nail on the head with that 68scott385 LOL.

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    • #32
      It is a street machine, is a 2 hour roadtrip machine, no its a go out around the town and tear things up machine lol. that buick in the video im racing, that's a street car, he also has a 5500 stall converter from COAN which he also said is 10 times more streetable then his b&m 3500 stall junk. gonna keep an eye on transmission temperature and ill be fine

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      • #33

        ~It is a street machine, is a 2 hour roadtrip machine, no its a go out around the town and tear things up machine lol. that buick in the video im racing, that's a street car, he also has a 5500 stall converter from COAN which he also said is 10 times more streetable then his b&m 3500 stall junk. gonna keep an eye on transmission temperature and ill be fine

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        • #34
          Coan knows what they are doing. My Coan was built for a trans brake, in a race car. 8" stalled at 5200 - and said not for street use in the paperwork.

          There are ways of building a converter that stalls high, yet is tight enough for street driving. I have one in my car now. Greg at FTI called it a "tight 4000" when I bought it. I believe it is a 10", and it does stall at 4000, is built for use with the brake, yet it pulls adequately at 2000 rpm for comfortable street driving.

          However, I had great luck with my pn 20425 Holeshot 3600 from B&M. Great and consistent 60' times, and I had over 500 passes on it when I killed it with a trans brake - which it wasn't made to withstand. Hence the call to Coan to build that converter I mentioned up there.
          Last edited by yellomalibu; September 21, 2014, 02:03 PM.

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          • #35
            [QUOTE=CanadianC10

            This motor does not perform well below 3000-3500, it needs airspeed.[/QUOTE]

            The motor was designed to move 5000lb+ Caddys with ease...and Gramps wasn't side stepping a clutch at 4 grand. The motor has a big arm for a reason. I like the overall combination, but I think the convertor choice is too radical.

            I've played around alittle with the Cad motor and tried many combinations. It has its limits, but to a certain $ range it is the best bang for buck to be had.

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            • #36
              There is one other alternative to increase airspeed.....shrink-porting.








              Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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              • #37
                Originally posted by AFFORDILLAC View Post

                The motor was designed to move 5000lb+ Caddys with ease...and Gramps wasn't side stepping a clutch at 4 grand. The motor has a big arm for a reason. I like the overall combination, but I think the convertor choice is too radical.

                I've played around alittle with the Cad motor and tried many combinations. It has its limits, but to a certain $ range it is the best bang for buck to be had.
                this motor also didn't come with [email protected] duration cam on a 108 LSA, 2.15 intake and 1.75 exhaust valves. with porting to match. balanced and springs that are good for 6000.
                I seen the mustang you play with I have serious respect for that car, stock bottom end with nitrous running 9's.

                I am not the only one running this kind of stall, lots of cads out there running 5000+ stall. in fact theres one with the exact same set except a little higher compression running a 4000 stall converter, in his words, it was like adding 100hp to the engine.


                about the filling the floors of the heads, I wouldn't touch epoxy unless I did some serious roof raise in the heads, around .200. those heads also look like the pushrod turn has been broke through and welded back up again to widen the port.

                there may be some gain in filling the floors, how much? I have no idea



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                • #38
                  These heads took a #3600 G-body to the mid-10's at 5000'+ elevation.

                  No pushrod break through, no welding. Bigger valves, shaved for compresson, some work on the flow bench with the epoxy fill. They flow 320cfm's.

                  Just throwing it out there. There is a significant gain to be had, the flow sheets prove it.

                  I like your truck. Run whichever converter makes you happy. The guys just want to see you get the most punch out of it.....me too.

                  Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by STINEY View Post
                    These heads took a #3600 G-body to the mid-10's at 5000'+ elevation.

                    No pushrod break through, no welding. Bigger valves, shaved for compresson, some work on the flow bench with the epoxy fill. They flow 320cfm's.

                    Just throwing it out there. There is a significant gain to be had, the flow sheets prove it.

                    I like your truck. Run whichever converter makes you happy. The guys just want to see you get the most punch out of it.....me too.
                    I have no doubt they took that car to the tens, someone has countless hours into those heads. would it be worth it for me personally, Id rather send my heads to MTS and have them CNC ported, I believe they flow 340 after that, and don't have to worry about epoxy breaking down.
                    looking at them again, someone did do quite a roof raise in those heads, a huge flow gain with the matched manifold bolted to it.

                    I guess they are shaved

                    the converter discussion, is just a debate. Yes its a Cadillac engine yes they do make monster torque, but so does a 427 tall deck, its all what you build it for.

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                    • #40
                      Headers are on their way, little misunderstanding, supposed to be 1 7/8 but are 1 3/4, might loose a little bit on the top end but they will be a thousand times better than the cast Iron manifolds.

                      Thinking on ways of cold air induction. was thinking of the dryer vent from the from grill to the air cleaner, or cowl induction? what has worked best for you guys?

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                      • #41
                        If you take a look at my build thread you'll see how I ducted the S-10 from under the RF corner right behind the bumper up to the turbo inlet. The tube could be a bit longer and go up to an air cleaner or other non-turbo inlet. I haven't run the truck yet but I think it'll work well.

                        Dan

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                        • #42
                          Dan I cant Seem to find your build thread

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                          • #43
                            "As promised....."

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                            • #45
                              The way it opens on my machine it's on page 41, about half way down (I don't know how universal that is). Several pics.

                              Dan

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