Have you matched the VINs from under the front hood (plate behind the spare tire) to the sticker on the drivers door post , and to the one on the tunnel just infront of the shift linkage cover opening under the back seat? If the pan is swapped the one under the back seat will be different. Your title may match either of these.......I've had a car with 2 titles, one for body and one for pan.
Good news is that the numbers match, 2 out of 3 anyway. The door post sticker is MIA. I’m not surprised as the car has been repainted to some degree in the past. Bad news is that it took me less than a week to misplace the title, so I could not definitively check that. There was a temp plate in the car that would have been issued at the time of title transfer to the guy I bought it from that shows the last 6 digits of the VIN and they match.
Is this the correct mounting (screws) for the VIN tag?
Attached Files
Last edited by 74NovaMan; September 25, 2014, 08:55 AM.
hat is the correct style pan for that year. King-pin front and swing-axle rear. KYB rear shocks are fairly standard aftermarket replacements, they are gas-charged. Slightly stiffer ride so if you decide it is too rough you can swap on some OEM style oil-filled ones.
Those screws are definitely not OEM. Rivets were used, like this. Location is correct though.
You even got an extra pair of sedan doors? See, Affordillac is right........you nearly have a second beetle already! They do tend to multiply quickly, I second his warning.
The vin decodes as follows:
1 = Volkswagen type one family
5 = Cabriolet (convertible)
5 = year of manufacture 9 (1965)
905308 = this is where yours ranks as far as production numbers for the 1965 model year. 905308th one built at Germany plant (there were several assembly plants worldwide) Yours was built in February to be exact.
The convertible thing threw me off. Used to dealing with sedans.
See the vin above decodes as:
1 = Volkswagen type one family
1 = sedan
7 = year of manufacture (1967)
291598th one built in 1967
I'm just really used to all my vins starting with 117 (except for the 2 181's - those are Things)
Last edited by STINEY; September 25, 2014, 12:02 PM.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
I did a little experimenting last night. The voltage to the hot side of the coil is inconsistent at best. I hooked up a battery charger to the coil and dumped some gas down the carb and it fired. I’m not getting fuel to the carb though so it would not run. I’ll have to look into that this weekend.
The newer fuel pumps don't seem to last like the old stuff did.....maybe the newer fuel is harder on them?
Anyways, be aware there are different styles of pumps and pushrods to run them. There are long and short rods, the difference is roughly 1/4". You shouldn't have to worry about that part, but notice that on your extra engine with the alternator that the fuel pump is canted? That is to provide extra clearance for the alternator.
The one on the installed engine is level, and is for the generator where the extra clearance is not needed. The good news is that they interchange perfectly, they both used the same length pushrod to actuate them.
I have installed the level style on an alternator engine. The clearance is very tight, but no rubbing. That said, getting one for an alternator will make any changes like converting to alternator down the road much simpler, and the price should be the same.
And a side effect of the newer fuel pumps failing seems to be dumping raw fuel into your crankcase. I wondered why my oil smelled like Torco and was overfilling itself.....grrrr.....
Something to keep an eye open for.
Yea, it fired!
Also, keep in mind that these only hold 2.5 quarts of oil, and rely heavily on the oil to keep from overheating. So a little low is a bigger deal than it is in a domestic V8 or similar.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
Anyways, be aware there are different styles of pumps and pushrods to run them. There are long and short rods, the difference is roughly 1/4". You shouldn't have to worry about that part, but notice that on your extra engine with the alternator that the fuel pump is canted? That is to provide extra clearance for the alternator. The one on the installed engine is level, and is for the generator where the extra clearance is not needed. The good news is that they interchange perfectly, they both used the same length pushrod to actuate them.
I bought a new fuel pump today and installed it. The engine in the car had the long pushrod and the spare had the short. After some comparison, I figured the short one was the one that I needed. I did not get a picture of it but the tip (the pointy bit) seemed to be worn about an 1/8 to 3/16 as compared with the long one. Not sure if this is an issue but I'll probably look for a new one. Here is the long one:
Here is the new pump installed:
Attached Files
Last edited by 74NovaMan; September 27, 2014, 04:52 PM.
We fixed the wire going to the coil (bad splice and wire). We also discovered that the line to the gas tank is plugged or kinked. We were unable to blow air back through the line even with the compressor. Once the new pump was on, we tried to start the engine (using a line dropped into a gas can) but no fuel was getting to the filter. When the line between the pump and the carb was removed we were treated to a nice fuel spray as the line was pressurized. My guess is that the needle was stuck in the seat so I applied some compressed air to the line and it seemed to free it up a bit.
The good news: Using my hands as a choke while Teresa worked the ignition the engine ran!! We had it running a couple of times for 15-20 seconds and it sounded good!
Immediate next steps are:
Carb rebuild
Fix Gas supply
Research rewiring - the wiring in the entire car is sketchy at best
Last edited by 74NovaMan; September 27, 2014, 05:20 PM.
I know the thing on the right is an electric choke. What is the elec part on the left behind the spring?
Fuel shutoff solenoid. Added to later model lean jetted carbs to prevent run on/dieseling. Run a jumper wire inline with choke wire......or if the solenoid is broke, take it out and gut it, solder it shut, and reinstall.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
This would appear to be crankcase venting of some sort. How much of it is necessary?
That is all jacked up. Sheesh. Short of ditching the whole mess and putting the factory baffled one from your spare engine on, I'd just plug the air cleaner tube and run the one from the oil fill directly to the whole in the tin below the dipstick like a road draft tube.
Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.
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