IMP-oster

[70imp355]

looks similar to mine but i have black interior, darker blue exterior, and alot more rust lol

[Imp-oster]

looks similar to mine but i have black interior, darker blue exterior, and alot more rust lol

Mine has surface rust here and there and a few places I need to patch small and then the drivers side lower quarter but over all not horrible.

On another note I just ordered these to go on the fenders itll be funny when I pop the hood and guys are like that not a 396 .... and Ill say your right its a 397 lmao

[DanStokes]

Do yourself a favor and wash it before you start body work. All the dust and crud is h&!! on sandpaper. I have over 50 years of auto body experience (though I never did it professionally) so I have some clue what I'm talking about. You might take a look at my build thread - the last few pages are concerned with the body work on the S-10. Any questions - leave a note here and I'll get back to you.

The car looks great! There's no side view but it looks like a 4 door hardtop (no "B" pillar" in the window area) - excellent body style that's now extinct. The engine looks all happy, too!

Dan

[Imp-oster]

Do yourself a favor and wash it before you start body work. All the dust and crud is h&!! on sandpaper. I have over 50 years of auto body experience (though I never did it professionally) so I have some clue what I'm talking about. You might take a look at my build thread - the last few pages are concerned with the body work on the S-10. Any questions - leave a note here and I'll get back to you.

The car looks great! There's no side view but it looks like a 4 door hardtop (no "B" pillar" in the window area) - excellent body style that's now extinct. The engine looks all happy, too!

Dan

Yeah i plan on cleaning it very well before I start the body work I was just saying its dirty and didnt want to go wash it to take a few pics. I didnt take a side view yet but I will just clicked a few pics for a quick post. But thats exactly what it is 4 door hardtop no top liner either and no B piller love this style and with a few kiddoes makes for taking the family on a cruise great with the 4 doors.

[Imp-oster]

Well been a bit got a few things to report I decided to sell the AFR black covers they didnt look as good as I had hoped and picked these up they are going on tomorrow. Also gunna upgrade my heads from the 195 AFR heads to a set of Spiers racing Vfactor v2.35PF/23 this is a profiler core that is CNCed and flows amazing gain of around 30-40 hp over my AFRs. Going to a bigger camshaft somewhere in the range of 238/242 at .050 and somewhere round 620 in lift and 600 ex lift on a 108 lobe sep 105 icl just throwing those numbers out there but gunna leave the final specs up to the cam designer. Also have the rear gears and posi unit ready to go in havent dont this yet but assuming this is gunna be a big gain all by itself over the open with the 2.73 gears it has currently. I installed the adjustable umi rear pan hard bar man what a pain the stock one was quite a PITA had rusted itself to the metal sleeve inside the bushing had to torch it off fun fun lol.

Getting the rear quarter installed soon and have started patching a few of the rust spots that I can find. I am chasing a weird prob thats more annoying than anything its been there since i got the car. Somewhere in the passanger rear I get a clunk going over bumps I cannot find for the life of me where or what. I have changed the rear shocks with a set of KYB shocks, the stock springs looked fine and the rubber isolators were in good condition. I have replaced all rear suspension both upper and lower control arms are Umi boxed with greasable inserts that are kept greased. I have added the Umi rear anti sway bar and Umi adjustable pan hard bar checked the exhaust and doesnt seem to be hitting anywhere or even close, cant see anything that would hit anywhere so lil bit at a loss it doesnt happen all the time just some times when I hit a good sized bump or hole.

I removed the rpm air gap cus I saw a slight tear in the intake gasket, wasnt causing any problems but figured Id replace em anyway. Since it was off I port matched the runners and removed all slag radiused the turns and smoothed then but left a slight rough finish to help keep the gas suspended. I also took the plenum wall down another 1/2 inch and opened it up and smoothed all the turns and walls. It made a pretty big difference it runs much stronger and even took on a deeper tone. The response was better and more crisp even the vacuum came up a bit. I dont know if this is telling me that my car would love a single plane intake but I dont wanna lose my low and midrange either.

[Scott Liggett]

I was thinking of those valve covers for my car. It is way past due for a change.

[Imp-oster]

Well decided to add some updates to the build and what i have done to her in the last lil bit and what I will be doing this month as well


Engine wise

I installed a BLP weekend warrior 750 billet double pumper http://blp.com/cart/index.php?main_p...x&cPath=72_120

I had Mike jones of Jones cams make me a custom billet hydro roller cam specs are 240/243 @ .050 .600/.592 lift 108 lobe sep much stronger powerband and screams to 6500 redline love this cam still has amazing street manners for a daily driver, good vacuum for power brakes, and has a killer idle.

Added a billet Rollmaster gold timing set as well at the same time

Sent the eddy rpm air gap off to T-flow for full porting work, wanted to stay with the dual for the better torque he welded on a 1.25 spacer and after all his work got it flowing pretty equal and over 320 cfm per runner versus the before, which i had mildly ported and taken down the divider a bit, and it only flowed 210 cfm. Made a BIG difference especially over 4000 rpms and down low is still great as well crisp, responsive, and strong off line.

Drive train ...... all being installed this month

Installing new rear springs and isolators

Installing new 1in drop front springs and new bilstien shocks

New 1 1/4 in front sway bar and new mounting parts

New energy suspension strut rod bushings

[Imp-oster]

Wow got the suspension installed and I cant be more happy with how the car rides ..... the car feels great goin over bumps and seems more like a newer car than a 46 year old beast. The new 1.25 front sway bar that replaced that tiny 3/4 inch stocker made such a huge difference in the way the car turns and rides love this new bar. I cant say too much on the stance just yet the car will hve to settle and will drop a bit which is good cus it does sit a lil too high in front not bad but I want it about an inch to inch and half lower lie before an these are 1.5 inch drop springs so it should sit about same. I had taken out a coil off the old stockers to see how i liked it lower than stock. Installation wasnt all that bad checked all the other bushings while in there replaced the upper control arms bushings, strut rod bushings .... those were actually quite a pain but the bushings were toast but the new poly ones will be good for a while, ball joints were fine, took some time on the sway bar just because it is so much bigger than the old one but worth the effort. Also while doing the rear springs I noticed that my rear tires were lil low on thread ( probably my fault ) but regardless took them to discount to see what they would do since they are 60k mile 215/75/15 tires. Well my buddy was working and said ill hook ya up and he warrenteed the tires only prob is they no longer carried the tire so he upgraded me too 235/70/15s 80k tires. First off these fit the 7 in rally rims ALOT better, and with the wider tires looked much meaner and they are only .3 inch bigger in diameter but 1.4 inches wider than the old tires. They also hve a 255/65/15 that I think I will replace the fronts with and then put them on the rear and the 235s on the front.

Next on the list of modifications

Suspension

Noticed that the steering components are not that great so adding new inner and outer tie rods with poly caps, New billet rod adjustors from Umi http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...products_id=53 , new upper and lower ball joints, I already changed the idler arm so will also change the steering arm as well. I noticed my steering box has a light leak .... works great but cant stand leaks so will see if I can source that too.

Changing the drive shaft with a new custom aluminum unit from dennys

Trying to source a front disk brake conversion as well to have the convience of disks on the front. Think I found a good one that doesnt require drop spindles.

Installing the 3.55 gears with the posi and moser axles and rear cover replacing the 2.73 open setup will make a HUGE difference to the way it accelerates.

Interior

I found this instrument cluster and think it would be a neat addition plus looks clean and has a tach and all the gauges id want versus making a new back plate and just installing Auto meter gauges but dont know if I want to do all that wiring that it looks like it needs http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd864.htm But it sure would look cool but thinking of still just making my own simpler to wire up, and cheaper.

Also taking it to my buddy at the car stereo shop and hes gunna install some dynomat and make a new rear window panel with the new 6x9 speakers and 10 inch bass, have him add some front speakers and a small amp and decent deck.

Also tired of the big huge bench .... wish it had a fold down divider .... so looking for a set of buckets to put inside and then a middle console added to give a lil more modern feel.

Engine

Adding a single fogger system for when the 600 horses is not enough but will not use it much but it will be cool looking underhood addition and fun for when I want a extra 200 horses. The engine was built for it might as well make the best of it. Other than that the engine is great

I will be removing the rear section of the exhaust that is after the Dr Gas X-pipe and making it a full 3 inch all the way out through magnaflow or Borla mufflers right now its 3 inch collectors, into mandrel bent 3 in into a 3in inlet dr gas X-pipe out 2.5 crush bend through generic straight through magnaflow wannabes.



After this list of things is done then I will finally start on the body of the car and get it painted a nice gunmetal grey metallic but for now I dont worry too much bout the body get it running and driving nice first. Besides sure shocks people when they try and race me and get beat haha I had a nice run in with a brand new 2016 dodge diesel with the 6.7 cummins (stock 385 hp and 900 torque ) but he had some chip installed dont know which but was on his pillar looked like a bullydog. Anyway he and i both gunned it hard from a stop light and i was well ahead off line by over a car and hadnt hit WOT because i didnt want to break the tires loose so with those long gears i currently hve at 50mph i go from 2/3rds throttle to full and the tires break loose again but still beat him pretty badly, havent played like that for a long time but sure was fun. He was pretty cool bout it gave me a thumbs up and went on his way. An dont want to hear anything bout how heavy they are I know they weigh over 5000 pounds but my imp is no feather weight either haha and had I had traction, full throttle launch, and my gears it woulda been a slaughter but it was fun none the less.