2002 trailblazer project transmission rebuild

[chevybuytroy]

Ok, I bought this Trailblazer for 1,500. It is the 4.2L, 4X4 EXT LT. My plan is to fix it and try to get $4,500 at the end. It needs a transmission rebuild that I am estimating at the max $500.00, exhaust that is on ebay for $125.00, And the blower motor fixed that is roughly $60.00






The only rust on it.



Hopefully get the trans out next weekend and start the rebuild which I will do on here. It is a 4L60E

So Far $1500.00

[chevybuytroy]

I got the transmission out tonight. I didn't take a lot of pictures on this process because I figure most people can pull a tranny. I just took pictures of important parts.

The first picture is the transfer case. You don't have to seperate them taking it down from the vehicle but I find it easier for myself


The next is a picture of the cross member. It has 8 small bolts and 4 long bolts with nuts


This picture is the Ext housing. I split it between the transmission to ext housing. Again personal preference.



This picture is the Neutral safety switch. These 2 plug ins break almost every time. What I do is take a heat gun and heat the plugins. It softens the rubber seal inside and slides right out



This is where you need to get to the torque converter bolts at the hole on top is big enough to get a 15mm socket in and turn with a ratchet. There are 3 bolts and I turn the flywheel with a screwdriver



Here is the transmission. front and back





Last picture tonight is most of the tools you need to tear one down and assemble. You need a 3/8 torque wrench also but mine is sent in getting calibrated at the moment. I should have it Wednesday.

[chevybuytroy]

I'm gonna start tearing down tomorrow. As I go through this I would like everyone to know I am not an expert on rebuilding. I have done about 5 in the last 12 months to get familiar with the process. I sell transmission parts for a living and wanted to connect with my customers so I started to get hands on and learn them myself. Our company is wholesale so if I question anything its usually to cheap not to change.
Things I know it I will change before even tearing down...

Pan with a plug. Nobody like to drop a pan full of fluid to change a filter. 20.00
New hardened shell 17.00
Rebuilt rear planet 4 pin 25.00
kits with frictions 80.00
I keep steels in stock in my shop .50 each X roughly 20
Bushing kit 15.30
Torque converter 139.00
shift solenoids x2 10.00
epc solenoid 39.00
tcc solenoid. I dont remember ATM
forward sprag 20.00
Possible reverse drum 20.00
Band 14.00
Corvette servo 6.00

Will find more when we open it up tomorrow

[TheSilverBuick]

Ooh, I someone who has just bought a 4L60e and depending what it looks like in the pan may open it up further, I'm looking forward to the pictures

[chevybuytroy]

Got it tore down. took about 100 pictures of a step by step. Dont know how far we will get but here we go.
Here is the stand I made for rear wheel drive transmissions



I have all-thread on each side. one is fixed and the other side tightens. Transmission have a place made in the case wear these go




Here it is on the stand draining.

[chevybuytroy]

This is the book I use for torques specs and assembly



To start we will take the Neutral safety switch off. It is 2 13mm bolts



Next we we take the bell housing bolts off. They at a torx 50 and are horrible to get out. I use a torch to heat up just enough to not break the torx socket. Which would of happen.





Next we will take off the pan. They are 13mm bolts. Next take off the filter to get to the valvebody. Check the magnet in the pan to see for any metal. Mine is full of friction material





Take all of the valvebody bolts out. They are 10mm and 13mm.



Unplug all of the solenoids. You can not take it off until the valvebody is out of the way. Once the valvebody is off take the 2 13mm bolts out that holds the tcc solenoid. Then you can take the harness off also. There is a valvebody plate you need to take off to with 3 10mm bolts

[chevybuytroy]

The seperator plate will either hav 6 or 7 check balls in on there. They will wear the plate out wear they ride. I always replace the plate








Next is the 1-2 accumlator assembly Take the I think 10mm..maybe 13mm 3 bolts out. Set to the side and pull the spring, pin, and piston out. Sometimes there are 2 springs in here for a harder shift. There is also a check ball there also.





Where the shift rod is there is a nut that needs to be loosened and a clip there that needs taken out. On the other side take the bolt out that holds the rest of the assembly




Pull the band pin out underneath the valvebody

[chevybuytroy]

Before you take the pump out you need to check the tolerance so you can get it close when you put it back together. Pull up on the shaft to get your reading Mine is .008"




Take the 13mm pump bolts out. I do non have the tool to pull the pump so I pry inside the case to pop it out





The 2-4 servo come out next. I use a hammer handle and push in on the cover. Pull the snap ring out. There is a blue o-ring that if you cut and pull out is all come out easy.





This picture is blurred. sorry... The piston is in the cover.

[chevybuytroy]

Underneath the pump is a selective washer that is yellow and plastic. It is what controls the clearence at the shaft we measured earlier.



At this point you can either pull the 2 drums out or pull the band out first. I try to pull the drums out first. The band was in good shape and not burnt but I change it anyways.



Then the front planet. There is a yellow snap ring in the middle of the planet that needs removed for the shaft to come out and the rest of the assembly





The front planet is grooved so it will need replaced




Front sungear and reaction shaft comes out after. The shaft has 2 styles bearing type and washer type. The bearing or washer rides between the shaft and shell. The shell is grooved also so it will be replaced. The shaft was worn but I was able to clean it on the lathe.

[chevybuytroy]

Rear sungear and black washer comes There is a yellow snap ring that is set in the case that comes out, then you can pull the center support out. There is a anti rattle clip that set between the case and center support that works like a cushion. If you put it back together and forget that clip you will ruin your case.







The rear planet, low/rev steels and frictions, and rear ring gear will come out next. My planet pinions has on pitting and 2 gears were wobbly. Also the rear ring gear hub was grooved also so it needs changed. The steels and frictions still looked go but will be replaced anyway.

[chevybuytroy]

Last to come out of the case is the low/rev piston assembly. There is a snap ring that holds it all in. You need to compress the spring retainer to get it out. I made a tool out of a puller for I think a steering wheel? Take the snap ring out, the spring retainer, then the piston. There is a hole on the case over on the valvebody side near the bottom. Compress air in there and it will release the piston, Now you case is empty and ready to be washed. You can wash it in you own solvent tank. I take mine to work and run it through the steam cleaner.

[chevybuytroy]

The reverse drum is the smaller drum. The band rides on it and is usually burnt on the outside. The top snap ring comes off and you take out the preasure plate, frictions and steels, and the waved plate.



The frictions, steels, and the preasure plate are burnt.




Take the snap ring out that is holding the spring retainer and piston off. You need to compress the spring retainer to get it out. I have a tool to do this. You can also use a hammer handle to do this. There is a hole inside of the middle of the drum you compress air in and the piston will come out.

[chevybuytroy]

The forward drum is ready to get empty. There are 2 types of drums. 300mm which is full spline at the end, and 298mm which has a pilot at the end. Mine is 300mm, the one on the right.

the 3-4 is the first set of clutches you take out. Mine is trashed and the reason for the rebuild. This happens from pulling trailers on overdrive, or not changing the oil.
Pull the selective snap ring out and the set of steels and frictions, Preasure plate, and the apply plate will come out. also 5 release springs.







Next another snap ring, then you can pull out the sun gear and sprag which are built together. Along withe the forward steel set. They looked good.




Over run steel set comes out next. these almost never go bad


Next is a bearing, then a snap ring that holds the pistons in. take it out and you can get the pistons out. Then the drum is empty. My drum is bad because wear the 3-4 steels bad they dug into the alluminum.

[chevybuytroy]

When I took the pump apart it is also bad. Wear the rotor and vanes run it is horribly grooved.

[chevybuytroy]

I bought my parts yesterday a work so heres the run down of what I thought needed changed,

Reverse drum 20.00
Forward drum 35.00
Shell 12.00 I found a nice good used one
front planet 10.00
rear planet 25.00 rebuilt
3-4 release springs x5 .25
Torque converter 139.00
.pump 300mm 65.00
seperator plate 10.00 good used aftermarket
Rear ring gear hub 5.00
bushing kit 15.33
3-4 apply plate 4.00
3-4 snap ring 1.00

I've already boought my o/h which was 100.00 so in close to my 500.00 budget on the transmission.

I might end up buying a transgo shift kit (not HP) to help with any later code issues. I have alot of car lots that will do this build for under 100.00 and only replace the minimum. I wanna make sure when I sell it I never see it again.