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Yard Sale Valiant

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  • GEARHED73
    started a topic Yard Sale Valiant

    Yard Sale Valiant

    FNG here, Ive been lurking for a very long time. For many years was wanting to build a budget 4 door. I had a 59 apache that I decided to let go. It was a super cool truck that I rescued from the dead, but I just wasnt really feeling it. Not really sure whats wrong with my brain, I basically sold a running/driving swb Apache and jumped on this.
    This is a 69 Valiant. I found it local to me on marketplace. It was the guys driver, had the basics up to speed... so I drove it home for $2200. Its a 318/904 with 71/4 out back. Disc brakes, fresh trans and electronic ignition. The down and dirty is I want to be deep 13's on the engine and then spray it. Ive already acquired most of the parts (just waiting on time) and im currently hovering right at 5K.


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    Last edited by GEARHED73; July 3rd, 2019, 01:21 PM.

  • GEARHED73
    replied
    I got it all home and started seeing how bad it fit... I was pleased to find that using my eyeball method of lining up slip yoke and driveshaft I had exactly 1" of pullout with weight on wheels. Seemed close enough for this bucket. I ordered up a conversion ujoint and slammed it all together. So, all said I have 7/8" of slip yoke pullout on all 4 wheels. I would like a little more but I'll see how this works out.
    Also ended up with stiffer leaf springs from a 340 car that I put new poly bushings in. They were the same leaf count as my original ones. I ended up standing on each set and had my son measure the deflection with a tape. The originals dropped approx 2" with my body weight, the 340 were at 1"... I have no idea how that works out as far as spring rates but I know the 340 have more ( and they were $40) so they are in the car.
    Brakes were the next one.
    Last edited by GEARHED73; September 29th, 2019, 04:36 PM.

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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    Down and dirty update. Once I had everything slid under and bolted up I was able to set it all on the ground and measure the pinion angle, very glad I wait to burn them in. It was 14 down...dont know how I messed that up. Anyway, cut the tacks and rotated it up. It took a few attempts but landed on 4 down. Tacked them and pulled it for welding. I was not able to use the explorer lower spring plates because of the way the shocks were mounted. I ordered up a set from an offroad shop and called it good. At this point we were back in the car and bolted up. Needed driveshaft and brakes. I almost just called the driveshaft shop to come and measure one up and be done with it, but my budget said not so fast. I ended up back in the junk yard with a tape. After crawling under every car with an 8.8 I left with an aluminum shaft the measured just a little long. It think it was about 50 9/16 cl-cl.
    Attached Files

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  • DanStokes
    replied
    Excellent project! I did a similar build for my bro and was it was a real sleeper, too. At that point my niece was still a toddler (she's now a Mom herself) so the car seat only added to the illusion.

    Dan

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  • mopar57
    replied
    Great Project! Keep it up and keep us in the loop.

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  • STINEY
    replied
    Not sure how I missed this, but what a cool project. Keep’em coming.

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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    I have the 8.8 ready to slide under. However, the perches are only tacked on. Ive learned the hard way to not weld it all up until after I've measured it while installed on the vehicle. I'm sure there will be some adjustments and odds and ends to do before it rolls back out of the garage.

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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    After a short break I was able to regroup and take another shot. It ran well enough to move it around but the shudder (miss) and the popping in the exhaust was giving me fits. I decided to perform a compression test. I fully expected a weak or dead cylinder. They were are in the mid 130's, nothing dead but very weak. This isnt uncommon for these 318. My pistons are.090 down in the hole, so even with 60cc heads and thin head gaskets my compression is still under 9. Sucks, but it's what I have to work with. So, as im running my wires back to the plugs ( wires had been previously loomed together with the old zip tie trick) I notice something... I double checked.....DAMM IT! #4 and #6 were swapped! I put everything back where it should be, the idle was great, vacuum was solid at 14 inches and no popping in the exhaust. I spent the last few weeks just driving around and blowing the tire off every chance I get. The other day after a good garage clean I decided it was time to get on with the axle swap. We made a liitle spin around the block, took some pics of a burnout and parked this yard sale in the garage.
    Attached Files

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  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Nice! I have always thought valiant were over looked. There was guy who had one he said it was the stiffest Mopar chassis so that's what he uses for his road race car.

    Hope to see how it does at the track!
    There was a guy who derby several of these. Slant 6, 2 barrel.. 5:38 rear ratio.. Fought with the big cars and came very close several times to winning.

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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    Its hard to be an A body mopar from this era,the B bodies get alot of the mopar love. I was kinda leaning towards a GM product but when this popped up for sale it was too easy. It was local, ran and drove with current tags. I need to get a few more things sorted before we get some numbers. My ass dyno says 300ish but really hard to tell with these freeway gears. I do know that if you even start to load it up on the converter it will blow the tire right off. Super fun but not a good way to go fast.
    Last edited by GEARHED73; July 3rd, 2019, 08:33 PM.

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  • Russell
    replied
    Nice! I have always thought valiant were over looked. There was guy who had one he said it was the stiffest Mopar chassis so that's what he uses for his road race car.

    Hope to see how it does at the track!

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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    Now is where it gets fun.Really tried not to screw this first start up, oh well. Oil pump was primed, Carb was full, timing was correct the cooling system was ready to run. It fired right off the key and I was stoked for about 2 seconds. Fuel started shooting out of the primary vent tube! Shut it down, Ill save you the play by play. But I hit all the normal suspects like float adjustment, needle and seat, fuel pressure..,e very time having to crank the engine over....Im getting very worried about the cam. I decided to the safest thing would be to install a known good carb... happened to be a 650 EVS2. Fired right up, set timing and proceeded to break the cam in. It was all unicorns and rainbows... then i began to notice a popping in the exhaust and a very slight shutter, ugh. Even with that i completed a 20 min run cycle. Went back over everything i though could cause it, even searched the interweb... my brain hurt. I did find a minor leak, had my fingers crossed. No bueno. It wanted to act up at lower RPMs. It really started to think I wiped some lobes. My stomach hurt. I just sucked it up and pulled the top end for inspection. Too my surprise everything looked great, I was semi relieved. I even cut the filter apart, it was clean too. Probably a good thing i used a zinc additive and stock valve springs! I slammed it all back together, I still didnt know what the problem was but I felt better knowing i wasnt pumping metal shavings through this engine. I needed a break.

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    Last edited by GEARHED73; July 3rd, 2019, 05:02 PM.

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  • hauen
    replied
    Sleepers are awesome.

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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    During the reassembly process i went ahead and took care of the total timing issue these distributors are known for. I used the a timing limiter plate and an old Mr Gasket recurve kit. I used one factory light spring and one from the kit. With the mechanical limited to 18 degrees and my initial at 17, total is at 35.
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  • GEARHED73
    replied
    At this point it was just assembling everything. I was on the fence about the converter. I decided to go ahead and do a mild converter now, I dont feel like dropping the trans in 6 months to swap it. This converter is something like a 2800 stall (memory is slipping), we'll see what we get once its installed. It will all be backed up an 8.8 explorer axle with 3:73s and traction lock (31 spline), so it should be happy together. I also scored a set of new 235/60 drag radials for $310 shipped and a set of 15x7 cop wheels from Long Beach. The rear axle is not really happening just yet. I want to get everything running and driving before head out back.
    I also included my cut down Crank pulley, I was looking for a 2 grove but the ones i found were too pricey. After inspecting mine, I realized i could cut it down without wasting the part.
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    Last edited by GEARHED73; July 3rd, 2019, 01:13 PM.

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