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Meet Tatanka, my 99 Suburban K1500

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  • tedly
    replied
    Yesterday I did the first drive more than 20 or 30 minutes since replacing the fluids, more than an hour 1 way. There is a BIG difference in overall comfort and driver fatigue. Less noticeable but still there is a small increase in performance, it just feels a hair livelier when I mash the gas. Pretty sure gas mileage is up slightly as well, given that I can feel the drop in resistance in the drivetrain. Keni and I may be road tripping to Kentucky in it in a couple months, and all of these changes plus a few more in the works will be greatly appreciated during a 10 hour drive. No work on it this week, had to put a battery in Keni's Subaru, so there went $160 of the overall parts budget. Plus quite a bit of overtime at work so not a whole lot of time for little stuff. Will be back at it really soon though.
    Last edited by tedly; March 11th, 2020, 09:38 PM.

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  • tedly
    replied
    Did the front dif fluid change last night. My dumbass thought it was going to have a cover, like the rear dif. Wrong. Just a drain plug, no gasket surface to clean up. Guess I made that $5 sandblaster for nothing. Oh well, I'll find other uses for it.

    The gear oil was very thick and glittery, and leaks at the axle seals meant the level was low. Nothing bigger than the fine glitter came out though, and believe me I was watching for it. Filling it involved a long, thin funnel with a wrench wedged under it to keep it at an angle down to the dif, and pouring the fluid from the fender well. Crude, but the stupid little squeeze bulb hand pump I had was completely useless. After 20 minutes it had only pumped maybe 1/8th of a bottle.

    Now that both difs and the transfer case have been done, there is a noticeable reduction in noise, vibration at highway speeds, and rolling resistance. It's really cool feeling this old beast coming back to life step by step. This stuff may not be flashy, but it's increasing the comfort and day to day usefulness. I'm good with that for now.

    $20 for the 2 qts of 80w90, total up to $2110.



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  • tedly
    replied
    Drained and refilled the transfer case tonight. There's supposed to be about 2 quarts in it but maybe 1 quart came out. Black with a reddish tinge, but no metal. Since I have the automatic 4wd it's supposed to have the Auto Trak fluid in it. The electronic automatic 4wd has clutch packs that activate when it is in auto mode. In auto 4wd, it stays in RWD until the rears start to spin, then the front wheels are brought in. Dexron is used in the manual 4wd, but a friction modifier is needed for the clutch pack in the electric. Auto Track is blue, Dexron is red. So it looks like at some point someone drained and filled it, but with the wrong stuff. The auto 4wd feature is probably not working, but it never really interested me anyway, so oh well.

    $30 for the replacement crank sensor earlier and $24 for 2 qts of Auto Trak, so up to $2090.

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  • tedly
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

    ouch
    I'll give you credit. Sometimes.

    Seriously though, I got family and friends with cancer, chronic illnesses, things where they have to fight their own bodies to function and even live in some cases. Something as small as getting dishes done, taking a shower, cooking dinner... simple things can take a lot out of them and make them feel like nothing gets done. Your quip can serve as a reminder to focus on the victories. Thank you for that, really.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    Originally posted by tedly View Post

    I don't know if you meant it this way, but that is a fairly profound statement. I'm going to steal it.
    ouch

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  • tedly
    replied
    Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
    winning is still winning (even if your competitor was you)
    I don't know if you meant it this way, but that is a fairly profound statement. I'm going to steal it.

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  • SuperBuickGuy
    replied
    winning is still winning (even if your competitor was you)
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; February 24th, 2020, 11:22 PM.

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  • tedly
    replied
    So the damn thing is stuck in his driveway until I can work on it during daylight hours. Thankfully Bill let me use his winter beater until I could get back out. Finally got to it today. Pulled the harness so I could work on it from topside instead of laying on ice. A chunk of crusty oil goop had gotten in the pigtail where one of the pins goes in. Cleaned that, coaxed the spring back down where it should be with a pick, replaced the splices, inspected the wires again, wrapped them in electrical tape, then stuffed them in conduit.

    You know, like they did from the factory to keep the wires from shorting out?

    My dumbass had left them out but tucked away in case I had to work on them again, then just never got around to finishing it right. So guess what? I insured I would have to work on them again, apparently. I got no excuse, I knew better and still did the dumb thing.

    Started fine right after clearing the codes and hasn't had so much as a hiccup since.

    Lesson learned. I shall hang my head in shame now.

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    Last edited by tedly; February 24th, 2020, 09:32 PM.

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  • tedly
    replied
    A little while ago, the Suburban started doing this weird thing. It was like a catch, or a gear slipping. Again, no rhyme or reason to it other than it got steadily worse. It was almost like a misfire, except it was only one, and it was like the engine shut off and turned back on almost instantly. Weirdest damn thing. I couldn't figure out what it was, and there were no codes setting off a check engine light, so I didn't think it had to do with the engine. That's one of the reasons I cracked open the rear diff, to look around and see if trouble was coming at me fast.

    Friday, I had taken my brother in for a doctors appointment. He's been having some pretty serious health stuff going on lately and this has become a regular thing. After driving an hour to his house, we go to the appointments in his car, but I drive. When I got back this time, Tatanka wouldn't start.

    Are you f*^king kidding me?! Luckily he has almost every concievable tool known to man. Unluckily it was going to be dark soon, I was in a gravel driveway away from any shelter, and it is Wisconsin in February.

    Joyous rapture, this is going to be swell!

    Got his scanner and pulled codes. P0339 and P0336. Problems with the crank sensor circuit.

    ARE YOU F*^KING KIDDING ME?!?!?!

    Go to NAPA and get a different crank sensor for $30 more than the one I originally bought. However this was the second one that was bad, so no way was I going to install the same thing again and be stranded. Again. I'll return the defective and get my money back. Had just enough time to drive a half hour, get the new part, drive a half hour back, and swap them out before the sun set. I'd be crawling around on my back on ice, but not for very long so...

    Got finished as the sun was setting, hopped in and cranked it... Nothing.

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  • STINEY
    replied
    Snow is just mud and dirt that cleans itself off. Sand is a close second for self-cleaning.

    Sloppy mud means a day spent afterwards changing fluids, greasing, and cleaning. Fun in mud has its price.

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  • tedly
    replied
    Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
    The option code is G80 for a posi.... may want to look into an aftermarket one as many refer to the G standing for grenade....

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    Ok.... Good to know that now. Thanks for the heads up!


    Originally posted by STINEY View Post
    Your only regret would be not having a locker in the 4x4 world. A limited slip is always welcome off-road.
    I thought it would be a good thing, but didn't know enough to know for sure. Closest thing to off roading I'm doing now is driving on snow. When I'm comfortable that Tatanka is healthy enough, I'm probably going to go play in the mud and dirt somewhere.

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  • STINEY
    replied
    Your only regret would be not having a locker in the 4x4 world. A limited slip is always welcome off-road.

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  • silver_bullet
    replied
    The option code is G80 for a posi.... may want to look into an aftermarket one as many refer to the G standing for grenade....

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  • tedly
    replied
    I was surprised to see that there was no limited slip. I figured being not only a 4x4, but a high end one from the factory, it would make sense to have limited slip. I was wrong. I'll do some research into how common limited slip carriers are, what to look for in junkyards, and if it's even a good idea to have limited slip in a daily driven 4x4. I would guess it wouldn't be a negative thing, but having no experience in the world of 4 wheel drive I could easily be wrong.

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  • tedly
    replied
    I can feel the difference, the rear axle is quieter and smoother. What's really eye opening is the difference in feel between the rear axle and the front. Lessening the noise and vibration coming from behind me is really making those things stand out when they're coming from in front of me. That's telling me the front dif needs done next. Might take a few days to get to, but not too terribly long.

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