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The 98GT - 4pointsix to 4sixzero

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  • BBR
    replied
    Naked block ready to be cleaned up! Main bearings look like high mileage units. Worn to copper, but they are evenly worn with no anomalies.

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  • BBR
    replied
    I started taking the 460 apart. Timing cover is off, cam is out, pan is off, oil pump is off. I pulled 2 rod caps and the bearings are meh, but the crank look ok. I've seen better, but I have certainly run worse. The 302's crank in the 83GT is an example of that. lol. Bearings are standard size and the crank mic's 2.4999, so I figure it'll be fine.

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  • BBR
    replied
    I finally pulled the heads out of the purple power bath they have been soaking in for a month or longer. They cleaned up real nice with the pressure washer. There is evidence rhey have been worked on before. I need to clean up the bowls and valve seats better before I make any hard decisions on whether I will use them or not. I might have a buddy's shop give them the once over. At the very least the guides and valve seats.

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  • BBR
    replied
    Man this thing is disgusting! I can't wait to get it cleaned up! The heads are currently submerged in Purple Power in the "vat", a big plastic tub we use to degrease stuff.

    This block is going to take some significant work with the pressure washer.

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  • Russell
    replied
    I like the rust proofing on that engine!

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  • BBR
    replied
    I made the sensor mounting bracket today. It took me forever to decide where I wanted to put it. It is not nearly as easy to mount as the hall sensor on Nanner was. It is oddly shaped and getting it tucked in, the right distance from the wheel and out of the hatchet spacer's path was somewhat challenging.

    I suppose it turned out ok. The wheel is a skosh off-center, but I think the gap, while obviously inconsistent, is within the spec of 0.5mm to 1.5mm. if it gives me trouble. I'll just make another one.

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  • BBR
    replied
    I took a few minutes today to make the 36-1 crank position sensor wheel for the 460. I made this one the same way I made the one for the yellow truck. I basically just screwed it to of a block of wood and used a hole saw to make the center hole large enough to fit the hatchet spacer for the 460.

    Next I will make a mount for the sensor and then index the wheel and weld it to the hatchet spacer.

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  • BBR
    replied
    It's torque converter day!

    The converter for the 83GT arrived today as well as the one for Greenbean! This one has been on back order for nearly a month. It is still a lockup converter so a big girl, but it is rated at 2800-3200 stall.

    it is so new it still smells like spray paint. haha.

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    Last edited by BBR; June 23, 2021, 11:44 AM.

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  • BBR
    replied
    Shifting gears.... literally. Lately I have been considering how I am going to get a speed signal to the ECU and the Baumann Optishift. This E4OD does not have a provision for a VSS because the signal in 90's F250's is generated by a tone ring in the rear diff. That signal is sent to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) where it is converted the standard Ford 8000 pulse per mile signal. The PSOM output signal is scalable by a factor from 5.0 to 11.0. In the '73 truck, we are used the ABS sensor in the right front wheel for signal and then to a PSOM and then to the speedometer and ECU. Now that is it not using an E4OD, I can rob the PSOM and wiring and just connect the ABS sensor directly to the Autometer speedometer.

    This presents a problem of sorts. I want to use a rear wheel ABS sensor since the speed is normally taken from the trans output but if I run a 28" tire on the rear like a 275/60-15, my conversion ratio will be 4.64. (50 ABS teeth x 743 rev/mile = 37150 pulse per mile, then 37105 ppm/8000ppm = 4.64) A little below the 5.0 minimum. This might not be a problem, but I would rather it be right on since this signal is split to the ECU, cruise control and Optishift. I could use a front wheel sensor just like I did on the truck, but I don't know what that would do as far as the ABS is concerned. Maybe nothing, who knows? I guess we'll see. Haha.

    Ford PSOM
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    Last edited by BBR; June 17, 2021, 03:01 PM.

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  • BBR
    replied
    I started to modify the stock 4.6L 36-1 crank wheel to work on the 460 hatchet spacer but it won't work. It is a thick solid cast steel wheel unlike the stamped sheet metal wheel I modified for the 552. So I ordered a sheet metal one off Ebay for $11. I will cut the center hole larger so it will slip up on the hatchet spacer and later weld it in the correct position.

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  • BBR
    replied
    Yeah, TunerPro handles all the reading writing stuff.

    I successfully read the tune out of it and saved it to my computer. I'll start looking at it to see what has been monkeyed with.

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  • Beagle
    replied
    Originally posted by BBR View Post
    Jaybird arrived! Not really sure how to use it yet though. No instructions. It's tiny.

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    I'm thinking it's like a CD Burner, not a helluva lot of instructions... all done from the tuning software. 1. Read me , 2. Write me. I bet baud rate is the only thing to get worried about besides electrostatic discharge. Ground yourself before too much touchy? Modern stuff doesn't seem to care as much, but still...
    Last edited by Beagle; June 11, 2021, 11:11 AM.

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  • BBR
    replied
    Jaybird arrived! Not really sure how to use it yet though. No instructions. It's tiny.

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  • BBR
    replied
    This ecu is a BAI1 code. I ordered a Jaybird yesterday and downloaded TunerPro RT. I do not have a QH. I probably will at some point, but they are backordered unitl August anyway. I'm like you. I would datalog, tune with a QH, then burn an F3 and poke it in.



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  • Beagle
    replied
    Seems like you are almost home:

    - The EEC-V has EDIS built in
    - I will use the intake, injectors, rails, throttle body, mass air meter, carb hat, and Optishift
    - Moates F3

    What catch code is your EEC-V hardware?

    Where I hit the wall was a base tune although the OptiShift takes care of the biggest issue I could see you having. I think I really underestimated the E4od strategy and there's a lot more too it than I'm willing to get into or can find easily.

    Every time I look at the Jaybird / F3, I can't picture in my mind what goes where when you are burning a chip. They both look male... (edit, okay I just looked again and the F3 is female... making more sense now. ) I've given some thought to a QuarterHorse for real time and datalogging, and then burn a chip after it's running / shifting right. With so many EEC-x cars in the corral, it seems like it would be the smarter move (for me) but then if I remember, don't you already have a QH?

    Last edited by Beagle; June 10, 2021, 09:38 AM.

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