Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The 98GT - 4pointsix to 4sixzero

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • BBR
    replied
    Shifting gears.... literally. Lately I have been considering how I am going to get a speed signal to the ECU and the Baumann Optishift. This E4OD does not have a provision for a VSS because the signal in 90's F250's is generated by a tone ring in the rear diff. That signal is sent to the PSOM (Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module) where it is converted the standard Ford 8000 pulse per mile signal. The PSOM output signal is scalable by a factor from 5.0 to 11.0. In the '73 truck, we are used the ABS sensor in the right front wheel for signal and then to a PSOM and then to the speedometer and ECU. Now that is it not using an E4OD, I can rob the PSOM and wiring and just connect the ABS sensor directly to the Autometer speedometer.

    This presents a problem of sorts. I want to use a rear wheel ABS sensor since the speed is normally taken from the trans output but if I run a 28" tire on the rear like a 275/60-15, my conversion ratio will be 4.64. (50 ABS teeth x 743 rev/mile = 37150 pulse per mile, then 37105 ppm/8000ppm = 4.64) A little below the 5.0 minimum. This might not be a problem, but I would rather it be right on since this signal is split to the ECU, cruise control and Optishift. I could use a front wheel sensor just like I did on the truck, but I don't know what that would do as far as the ABS is concerned. Maybe nothing, who knows? I guess we'll see. Haha.

    Ford PSOM
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20170320_133459.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.56 MB ID:	1296083
    Last edited by BBR; June 17, 2021, 03:01 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    I started to modify the stock 4.6L 36-1 crank wheel to work on the 460 hatchet spacer but it won't work. It is a thick solid cast steel wheel unlike the stamped sheet metal wheel I modified for the 552. So I ordered a sheet metal one off Ebay for $11. I will cut the center hole larger so it will slip up on the hatchet spacer and later weld it in the correct position.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	s-l1600.jpg
Views:	30
Size:	183.5 KB
ID:	1295743

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Yeah, TunerPro handles all the reading writing stuff.

    I successfully read the tune out of it and saved it to my computer. I'll start looking at it to see what has been monkeyed with.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    Originally posted by BBR View Post
    Jaybird arrived! Not really sure how to use it yet though. No instructions. It's tiny.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210611_123657.jpg Views:	4 Size:	1.59 MB ID:	1295554
    I'm thinking it's like a CD Burner, not a helluva lot of instructions... all done from the tuning software. 1. Read me , 2. Write me. I bet baud rate is the only thing to get worried about besides electrostatic discharge. Ground yourself before too much touchy? Modern stuff doesn't seem to care as much, but still...
    Last edited by Beagle; June 11, 2021, 11:11 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Jaybird arrived! Not really sure how to use it yet though. No instructions. It's tiny.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20210611_123657.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	1.59 MB
ID:	1295554

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    This ecu is a BAI1 code. I ordered a Jaybird yesterday and downloaded TunerPro RT. I do not have a QH. I probably will at some point, but they are backordered unitl August anyway. I'm like you. I would datalog, tune with a QH, then burn an F3 and poke it in.



    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    Seems like you are almost home:

    - The EEC-V has EDIS built in
    - I will use the intake, injectors, rails, throttle body, mass air meter, carb hat, and Optishift
    - Moates F3

    What catch code is your EEC-V hardware?

    Where I hit the wall was a base tune although the OptiShift takes care of the biggest issue I could see you having. I think I really underestimated the E4od strategy and there's a lot more too it than I'm willing to get into or can find easily.

    Every time I look at the Jaybird / F3, I can't picture in my mind what goes where when you are burning a chip. They both look male... (edit, okay I just looked again and the F3 is female... making more sense now. ) I've given some thought to a QuarterHorse for real time and datalogging, and then burn a chip after it's running / shifting right. With so many EEC-x cars in the corral, it seems like it would be the smarter move (for me) but then if I remember, don't you already have a QH?

    Last edited by Beagle; June 10, 2021, 09:38 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Man, I almost feel like I am drowning in options and I can't figure out the best way to proceed.

    I think I have chased the Mass-Flo rabbit as far as I am willing to go. The idea of it is great. The application of it in this particular car is likely not so great. I feel like the hoops I will have to jump through to use it will be more trouble than using the EEC-V and harness that it is already in the car.

    Hoops:
    1. Extracting EEC-V harness - sounds easy, but it seems there are other non-engine stuff is incorporated into that harness. I *could* leave it in place but I would still have to figure out how to get the EEC-IV harness through the firewall and into the car.
    2. Identifying and making stuff work that are contained in that harness.
    3. Relocate alternator or convert Mass-Flo EEC-IV to EDIS8. The EEC-V has EDIS built in, so I would really just be adding parts to have a feature I already have access to with the V. Either way I have to make a 36-1 wheel and crank sensor mount. Relocating the alternator is proving to be a much harder task than it sounds. The mounting depth of just about any alternator is the sticking point. I could probably put an old style externally regulated one in there and it would fit, but I feel like that would be going backwards.

    Bottom line is: I really want this thing to work like a 1998 Mustang should with no weirdness or quirkiness and I don't think the Mass-Flow EEC-IV can do that for me. If this was originally a carbureted car, it would be a perfect match, but I don't think it is a feasible option for this 98. I will use the intake, injectors, rails, throttle body, mass air meter, carb hat, and Optishift, but I think I will save the ecu, and harness for something else.

    As I type this, I just happen to know of a certain red 1983 carbureted turbo car that I could use it on at some point maybe...... haha.
    Last edited by BBR; June 10, 2021, 09:00 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Reversed alternator feasibility study. Surprisingly, it does not seem completely out of the question. Also surprisingly, a BBF wrist pin is exactly the right length to space it off the motor plate. Haha.

    Belt routing would change a bit but not detrimentally so. Another option would be to move the power steering pump to the top side or end of the plate and mount the alternator down low on the driver side.

    I guess it comes down to:

    1. Reflashing the ECU with the settings for EDIS8, (if this ECU has all the correct circuitry, some do not) making a 36-1 wheel and sensor mount.

    2. Moving the alternator (possibly flipping) and changing the FEAD to accomodate it.

    As bad as I dislike the idea, I really think 2 is my best bet. Mainly because the Mass-flo system can be installed as is and be running without me having to configure or modify or change anything. The motor plate is a work in progress and I can hack and cut and weld on it at will.



    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210608_175252.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.22 MB ID:	1295424
    Last edited by BBR; June 8, 2021, 06:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    75 dollar tuning solution. Sweet!

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Went and looked at the Mass-Flo ecu and pulled the chip out. It is a Moates F3. Which is awesome because I was concerned it would be a proprietary chip. This one can be read, and re-flashed as many times as I want with a Jaybird reflash thing and the software from Moates.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20210608_120432.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	1.03 MB
ID:	1295409Click image for larger version

Name:	20210608_120438.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	1.07 MB
ID:	1295410

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    The alternator on M. Beagle's old Avalon was tiny... maybe an import?

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    I really don't know about the fail mode. I think you are right though.

    The Bauman needs a TPS and a speed sensor. This trans does not have a speed sensor so I am going to have to tap a rear wheel ABS sensor to provide the proper input for the Bauman and the speedometer. It will be a similar to what we did on the yellow truck. The signal may need to be conditioned thru an F-truck PSOM first. I have a spare one that I plan to use. I would have had to do that with the stock EEC-V as well.

    The A9L from Mass-Flo has a chip on the J3 port that configures it for the 460. No OBD2 junk up here. We still live in the wild wild west.

    I have been tinkering with the idea of flipping the alternator around and mounting it backwards and off to the passenger side a bit. They will work when spun in either direction. The only caveat is that they may run hotter due to the internal fan spinning the opposite direction. I have read that this is no big deal provided the alternator is not running at max output for extended periods. This high on the possibility list seeing that I would LOVE to be able to just install everything and have it work with no finagling.

    I also have been looking for an alternator has a shallower depth than this one. The stocker is 6.75", overall thickness. A 2003 DOHC Taurus one would *almost* work, but is about 1/2" too deep. I will keep looking.
    Last edited by BBR; June 8, 2021, 10:01 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    I'm still trying to get a grip on EDIS failure mode, but it sounded like you would still get 10* from the A9L with no advance. How it is supposed to fire the coils is eluding me if the EDIS module goes bad. The Baumann only needs to share TPS signal for it to work, right? The A9L then handles all the MAF / injector functionality. I didn't see if it's got a chip or if you have a Quarterhorse or similar? My concern, which I don't think you have to deal with, is ODBII testing here in DFW. They'll still plug in a '98 here and that would obviously fail. I like this a lot better than playing with a truck MAF computer for the E4od though!!


    That's a neat pile of parts!
    Last edited by Beagle; June 8, 2021, 08:30 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    I mocked it all up on the efi 460 that was on the stand. And while it doesn't really have the "look" I was aiming for, I think it will perform better and have more headroom for upgrades. It is also fairly tall with the carb hat on. I was considering a cowl hood, but this may make one a necessity.

    I also took a pic inside the Torker to show the intake runner mis-match from a standard intake to an efi head. Of particular note is the hole at the bottom corner that goes into the lifter valley.

    I am really leaning toward using an EDIS8 module rather than try to relocate the alternator. Any relocation would require a complete rethink of the serpentine belt stuff and I would like to avoid that!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20210607_172808.jpg
Views:	77
Size:	1.37 MB
ID:	1295362Click image for larger version

Name:	20210607_171336.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	785.7 KB
ID:	1295363

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X