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62 Falcon - $5k challenge, how will it rise from the ranger's ashes?

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  • I bought those very lower control arms for the Spider. They're nice quality, be sure to weld the little bracing triangles to the tube.

    on the steering connection - do put a collapsing joint between the column and the rack... that way if you do, heaven forbid, hit a wall, you won't be impaled by the steering column.

    I thought time was an issue? if it isn't, yep, get another column - if it is, keep in mind that you have rewire the column, and make adapters to the dash and firewall. Also, at this point it's easy ordering connecting joints - once you go with another column, you'll need to factor in the extra cost of adapting joints.

    And yes, you can snake the steering shaft around headers, or any other obstruction, you just have to make sure you don't let the shaft flop like a swivel head for your rachet.
    Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 9, 2012, 01:42 PM.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • I've seen it a lot on Circle-Track stuff to get the shaft out of the way for header clearance.
      Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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      • You are doing a great job, I love following along on projects like yours. I remembered seeing a picture of a double universal set up. This guy is putting an ls1 in a TR6. It may not work for you but it may give you some ideas as to what is possible.
        Attached Files

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        • ^^^ That looks neat - and gives a picture to stiney's idea of heim joints in the steering shaft.

          It took a while - but I finally cut through the steering column and shaft to free it from the steering box (yes - these cars had the "death spear" steering column - solid shaft from wheel to box)

          The shaft is 3/4" diameter.

          In order to make the existing column work I will have to shorten the outter column to expose more shaft, find a bearing to support the end of the shaft, weld that in place, then work out the intermediate shaft and joints.

          The existing column is for a column shift auto and is not tilt. For $259 I get a tilt column that doesn't have any of the colum shift stuff and already has a bearing support on the end.
          ???$$$???$$$


          I got the driver side inner wheel well removed last night for the minitub.... removing the bump stop was a biatch, mangled the side of the frame rail, so I welded a patch over the damaged area, which will be mostly covered by the wheel well flange.
          There's always something new to learn.

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          • Thanks R442. That's a great example of what I was trying to say.

            Tilt is really, really nice to have. What about adapting a column from a different, later (and cheaper!) model (or even brand)?

            Astro vans have some interesting tilt columns that might lend themselves nicely to your needs?

            Seans thread might give you some ideas - http://www.bangshift.com/forum/showt...ighlight=astro
            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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            • Originally posted by STINEY View Post
              Astro vans have some interesting tilt columns that might lend themselves nicely to your needs?
              tree'd me - though I'd bet there's also an equivalent Ford piece
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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              • This may sound wonky - but I want to keep the ignition switch in the dash, and I don't want to deal with a deleted column shifter, etc.

                Flaming river will swap out the pinion for a shorter one for $75 if I ship it to them - since they're in Ohio - that shouldn't cost much.

                That will make the geometry of the engine mount and steering shaft easier to deal with - I think it's well worth the $.

                The temptation to have them ship a new column and shaft kit with the reworked rack is growing, but the summit column (plain steel not stainless like FR) is ~$75 cheaper
                Last edited by milner351; July 10, 2012, 12:13 PM.
                There's always something new to learn.

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                • losing the spear-o-death is worth every penny of 260.00 ... that's a safety item.
                  Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                  • I'm leaning that way, but at the same time I'd like to keep the old school steering wheel if I can..... choices choices.

                    Uh - Oh - I wish I'd seen this before pulling the trigger on the lower arms yesterday - this looks like I will have the same problem:

                    Full Tilt's exclusive Ford-into-Ford lower control arms solve clearance problems when Mustang II IFS is installed with Ford engines.


                    I got the flaming river rack boxed up last night - will drop it off at FedEx ground today and should have it back with the shorter pinion in about a week.
                    There's always something new to learn.

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                    • Originally posted by milner351 View Post
                      I'm leaning that way, but at the same time I'd like to keep the old school steering wheel if I can..... choices choices.

                      Uh - Oh - I wish I'd seen this before pulling the trigger on the lower arms yesterday - this looks like I will have the same problem:

                      Full Tilt's exclusive Ford-into-Ford lower control arms solve clearance problems when Mustang II IFS is installed with Ford engines.


                      I got the flaming river rack boxed up last night - will drop it off at FedEx ground today and should have it back with the shorter pinion in about a week.
                      I didn't... it clears just fine on the Spider - I'll see if I can find a picture of that portion.

                      pictures



                      lots of clearance.
                      As for your steering wheel - easy as pie to make it adapt to the new column. Keep in mind that a steering wheel is nothing more than a plastic covered metal hoop. Remove the plastic in the middle, weld in the right center section, then remold the plastic back (there's bunches of kits to make plastic parts from your local hobby store - heck, IIRC there's even a kit to repair your steering wheel that could be adapted to fix the cut lines)
                      Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 11, 2012, 10:38 AM. Reason: add pictures
                      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                      • I have a stock mustang two cross member - see the tabs that mount your rack to the cross member? I don't have those - the rack mounting holes are horizontal and mount with long bolts through the cross member.

                        My rack is a bit higher as well - the boots are a bit closer to the subframes than yours.

                        Yours is a welder series yes? Maybe I can buy the mount tabs from them, might save some time compared to making my own.

                        Now I'm not sure if I should shorten the pinion or not, tilting the rack like yours and leaving it long maybe the answer.

                        Where did you get your steering shaft U joints?


                        Yup - I can not only buy the tabs from welder series


                        - but they appear to have my motor mount solution as well:

                        Last edited by milner351; July 11, 2012, 11:09 AM.
                        There's always something new to learn.

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                        • joints - I think I got them on Ebay or Summit....

                          the guy who sells the welder series is just north of you in Canada so I bet you can get them quickly
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                            joints - I think I got them on Ebay or Summit....
                            And here I always thought those came from Humboldt or Maui.
                            I'm still learning

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                            • Originally posted by Bob Holmes View Post
                              And here I always thought those came from Humboldt or Maui.
                              it's true that you have to speak the language of the hearer. In Detroit, it's not joints that is the self-medication of choice so John gets what I'm saying; however, in Cali, one would be required to say U-joints and still run the risk of a double meaning.
                              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                              • I like those motor mounts John. The seem to have "longitudinal fortitude" designed right into them, nice clean design as well.
                                Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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