Flip this car!

[Russell]

Been kind of lazy, have not worked on the car much picked 4 used 225 50 17 for $40 + $8 gas. I pulled the clutch and I think I may have found what killed the trans the dumb @ss that put the clutch in did not drive the pilot bearing into the crank. There is a wear ring on taper of the input shaft. Think it burnt up the bearings? Think it would take a rebuild to fix?

[Cyclone03]

I've seen where the DA who changed the clutch did not replace the pilot and when I went to pull the trans the next time the bearing pulled out of the crank,after prying on the trans. (yes the DA was me).

I would use a stock shifter and sell the after market,or add it on as a cherrie if the new owner is a kid.

To pull the top cover you have to remove the tail housing,don't pull the front bearing retainer because the bearings will no longer be retained,there are 15, IIRC, loose roller bearings on the back side of the input shaft. My guess is shift fork/rail problems take note of the spring and ball under the shifter block in the tail housing.

[Russell]

Well I was getting no where fast fixing my busted trans so I pick up a used one off CL. Guy said it came out of a 98 cobra. Its a BW box not a tremec. It does have the mount diffirent. Looks like a 6 cast so I bet its a 96 cobra. Oh the one out of my car is a 00. Is there such a thing as a #s matching mustang? Have to switch the tail shafts hope it fits. Add $400 for the box $24 for gas.

Total $1851.88

[Russell]

I learned a $105+14 (gas) lession when youu have the tail shaft off don't mess with the shifter rod. It is possible to over rotate it and the trans has to be completely torn down and reassembled.

Total 1970.88

[Russell]

It moves!

Dad came over this morning we put the trans back in and took it for a ride around the block! Drives pretty good, got a few squeeks. So now do I list it for sale or do the paint and body work?

ATF 23.44
Utra Black 7.49
Bolt 0.84

Total $2002.65

Going to have to pay NC about $200 to transfer the title to my name so I can sell it.

I think I will list it for $3200 firm on Cragslist. I might have to do the paint and body and up the price to get ride of it.

[Beagle]

My mom covered this for me. She said "Why would you want to buy something that wasn't already shiney?"

unless you're selling it to another gearhead who won't want to pay you what it's worth, better get Maaco.

[Russell]

Got the title in the mail today. Only cost me $124.90 plus a BS $5 notiary fee.


Total 2132.55

Testing the waters @ $2800 Firm

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/3143622061.html

[Russell]

Long story short had a guy say he wanted it, the day he wanted to get it (saturday) he forgot the bank was closed and could not get the cash, there where some days I was busy, he was busy, then he went a got an 05 at the dealership. I kick my self because I did not show the car to a guy that emailed durring all this b/c I thought it was sold. Might have someone come check it out tomorrow.

One of the guys that came and looked at it said something about not having tail pipes and someone else said that it might not pass inspection. So for $85 (+$5 gas) I picked up a stock mid pipe w/ 6 cats, stock mufflers, stock tail pipes. The tail pipes and the muffers did not come off the same car, and the hanger are pointed diffrent than the rubber on the car. with a little work I think I can make them fit. Before the car had no mufflers at all just dumped infront of the axle. Nothing like an open header car but it was a little loud, with stock muffers and no tail pipes you can hardly hear it run.

Total $2,222.55

[Beagle]

you can probably barely hear it run with the 6 cats! It should pass if the MIL isn't lit up, and I'd be surprised if it wasn't unless it's got the MIL eliminator stuff on it. The second set of 02's should throw a code. I've heard of a lot of guys running just long tubes having problems.

Not sure how NC does it, but in DFW, somebody I know's Saturn doesn't have cats and it passes because they just read the computer for codes on ODBii cars. I was actually surprised, not even sure they do a visual! Anything between 87 and 95 (25+ is exempt, ODBii is easy) gets the brunt of the problems.


Sorry to hear on the sale. You're a courteous seller - I'd hold a car with a cash deposit for about a week, but really the first guy who puts money down on the barrel head should get it.

[Russell]

Its now been 11 months, this project has taken a lot longer that I thought it would. I have gotten slack with the updates and keeping up with the cost. Well I have been to the JY twice sence I last updated. The frist time I got the mirrow and the a-pillar trim. Yesterday I got the Cowl grill and little hood grills I don't remember how much the 1st trip was.

A month or so ago Dad and I took the car to Wilington to get some body work lessions from Dan. Dan was great! he put us up for the night and the next day we hammerd, filled and sanded on the car. I learned a lot! 1st thing I learned was I am no longer allowed to use the DA on filler. Dan said the hardest thing to learn is when to stop. We got it pretty close and primed it. I am still working on the when to stop lesson, out side in the day light it looked a little low so got a can of bondo and some sand paper. I worked on it some this weekend. So I guess you can say I have not profected the when to stop yet. I need to sand the layer I put on yesterday morning, hopefully it will be time for primer again.

Once I get this dent fixed it will be time to wet sand the whole car. What type of sanding block / paper do you use to wet sand?

I am not going to count the cost of diesel, project car math says about $100 in parts / consumables so I am going to "say" the new total is:

$2325

Just incase anyone wants, it untill I spend any more money on it, for sale $2900 firm.

[milner351]

I hear ya - my nephew's truck is on craigslist and sitting out front with for sale signs, new tires, new plugs, water pump, thermostat, all new rear brakes, trans fluid and filter, oil and filter, etc.... no rust and line-x - and I can't get any interest.

I think the holidays are a horrible time to sell.

body work is a feel thing - I don't have very good feel for it - it takes lots of practice and seems to be very frustrating for us perfectionists that lack patience.

One thing at a time. Good luck with it - keeping track of the hours is the hard part. After all the work is done - it's easy to under estimate how much time you really have into something.

[Russell]

Yeah I think body work is just as much art as it is science. I am not counting hours I don't want to know, I figure my time is $free switching out a door can be a pain and having to paint it is not the easiest. LKQ sells doors for $60 +$12 +EF +ST. Some times its hard to find a good one...

I figure I am fixing this one so when I am working on a car that you can not find a door for or working on a quarter i have done it before.

I have not listed for sale any where but the above post. I do have my Wife's 2008 Nissan Rogue for sale on Craigslist, and have got nothing. I did have some trouble getting pictures to post and I know cars do not sell with out pictures.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/3479318465.html

[Beagle]

I hear ya - my nephew's truck is on craigslist and sitting out front with for sale signs, new tires, new plugs, water pump, thermostat, all new rear brakes, trans fluid and filter, oil and filter, etc.... no rust and line-x - and I can't get any interest.

I think the holidays are a horrible time to sell.

body work is a feel thing - I don't have very good feel for it - it takes lots of practice and seems to be very frustrating for us perfectionists that lack patience.

One thing at a time. Good luck with it - keeping track of the hours is the hard part. After all the work is done - it's easy to under estimate how much time you really have into something.

I can't say anything that will help much on the bodywork except maybe offering this - get a long board. 5" DA is too easy to dig in for me.

3m wet dry paper has never done me wrong for wet sanding. I'd get a variety of grits up to 1200 or so - I see guys using finer grits for color sanding , but I'm a hack and don't have that much patience.

Don't get too worried about the cost of the materials, this is one place where you don't want a substandard product. Cheap will bite you in the ass so hard you won't forget it for a long time. You'll spend enough time with good product to probably be sick of it by the time you are done, now imagine fighting with crappy paper that falls apart.

I saw a show the other day, can't remember which one, but they were using Scotch green tape and saying the blue tape was fine for houses but not an automotive quality product. It will let the paint bleed and didn't make as nice a line when masking off stuff. I'd look into that as well, I knew better than to use regular masking tape but didn't think about the blue stuff not being "the" choice... Ask your body supply guys for "Automotive" masking tape and get the good stuff.

Good luck with the paint job!

[Russell]

Well i splurged and got the dura block kit! a roll of 80 and 220 grit off Amason. I could have gotten he door for less than those 3 things. Dan said to get 3/4" green 3M tape so i got one along with red and blue hardner. I got confused when I got to the primer they had some good (expensive) spray cans, but I did not see the one that Dan had. I was looking for high build the only one said that was the duplicolor, I have not used it yet, not sure I want to...

The dry paper has glue that sticks to the blocks the wet paper that i am used to does not. do you just wrap it around, get a diffrent block, i am guessing I should not just use my hand....

[milner351]

I've done lots of stuff with duplicolor spray cans that turned out well - including the dresser in Lee's room, that one turned out so good even Rhonda liked it.

YMMV