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  • The Service Honda kit showed to be unobtanium until further notice? I saw mixed reviews on it and some talk about using the CR250 bits. I'm way behind on modern "digital" CDI.. based on all the internet screaming, it looks like I'll stick with my old timey junk!!!

    Most of the vendors have changed since the last time I looked at lighting kits several years ago. That flywheel is pretty small. Small enough that I'd consider taking the old flywheel with me on a trip to Bates (our bike boneyard here) to do size comparisons for lighting coils off of something like a DT80 yamadog or maybe a YSR50 or something about that size (sub 100cc and / or scooters). Your timing plate looks like it's already got mounting provisions.
    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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    • Originally posted by Beagle View Post
      The Service Honda kit showed to be unobtanium until further notice? I saw mixed reviews on it and some talk about using the CR250 bits. I'm way behind on modern "digital" CDI.. based on all the internet screaming, it looks like I'll stick with my old timey junk!!!

      Most of the vendors have changed since the last time I looked at lighting kits several years ago. That flywheel is pretty small. Small enough that I'd consider taking the old flywheel with me on a trip to Bates (our bike boneyard here) to do size comparisons for lighting coils off of something like a DT80 yamadog or maybe a YSR50 or something about that size (sub 100cc and / or scooters). Your timing plate looks like it's already got mounting provisions.

      modern isn't necessarily better; however, I still get grief for using a wireless-remote for my winch - despite the "you can stay away from the kill zone and you can do one-person operations" there's still the "oh, but I'm so afraid of those".... so YMMV. I've seen the CR250 ignition upgrade, but it seems mostly "it looks better" or "it gives a bit better spark" without any real science behind the opinion. The biggest issue that I see with the CR250 set up is you can't reprogram the timing curve for the 500 - thus, the "better" opinion really is just that.... an opinion.

      I like Service Honda - despite not selling me anything, they spent a great deal of time answering questions I had about gas tanks; thus, while the internet opinions may be valid, they could also be trolls; on the other hand, Service Honda helped and stands behind their product. If you call them, you can buy the setup.... for whatever reason, it's just not listed online (this, when I checked a couple months ago).
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • I figure you've already looked at this, but have you pulled the timing plate to makes sure there isn't any oil or crap behind it that would cause it to not ground consistently? That'll jack up the ignition the way you are seeing too.

        oh - I have some of that little junk in the sub 100 size somewhere, can you get me a diameter on the flywheel inside magnet to magnet? How much power does a Microsquirt need? I wonder about a powered external coil and Microsquirt. You'd get a ton of control at that point. Maybe a super capacitor instead of a battery...
        Last edited by Beagle; April 27, 2015, 09:16 AM.
        Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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        • it was, except for the misplaced wire, in pretty good condition. There was some arcing (as evidenced by the build up on the magnets) - but it still doesn't seem to want to pop right off...

          as for megasquirt - this would be more a raspberry pi application ... I dunno, I think I'll get it as good as I can as cheaply as I can and ride the wee out of it. I really want a CRF450 or even a quad, thus, whatever I do won't be expensive or labor intensive. I have 2 more years before I get the title to this, and I think once that occurs; I'll sell it.
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • You probably know this too, but not a Megasquirt.... a Microsquirt.



            dainty thing! I saw this the other day and you mentioned compression release, so thought I'd throw that out here as well.

            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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            • i know its been 6 months since the last post...but i still have 2 CR500's and a KX500. none are stock, and they roost the hell out of ANY other bike/quad.
              fun fun FUN !!!

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              • They are fun - you should try the 500 in a 250 or 125 frame... lighter, faster, tighter handling
                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                • Liked the 125 Hodaka for close turns, etc but the thumpin power of the XL 350 was more enjoyable even if I had to stop, stand up and try again..
                  It's FALL.. colorful, crisp and the best time to ride,
                  Last edited by Deaf Bob; October 16, 2015, 06:44 PM.

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                  • I still need to do the compressor release to make mine easier to start.... I think if I get to 250-level easy of starting, I'll run this thing until it dies.... otherwise, well, I built this I'll build something else.
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                    • Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
                      I still need to do the compressor release to make mine easier to start.... I think if I get to 250-level easy of starting, I'll run this thing until it dies.... otherwise, well, I built this I'll build something else.


                      does "the drill" not work for you? every veteran CR500 rider does it, myself included...
                      if your bike is in halfway decent tune, it will light 3-4 kicks stone cold & 1 kick hot
                      everytime if you follow this order.....

                      #1- petcock on,throttle 50% open, lean bike to left almost to ground till gas pukes out overflow.
                      #2- sit on bike, put in 2nd, *clutch out* hold throttle 50% open, rock back and forth 5-6 times. close throttle.
                      #3- choke on, put bike in "N", cycle kicker slowly at bottom 1/4th ONLY, until ya hear the 'death rattle'...
                      #4 up to top on kicker, * slowly down 2 clicks. return to top of stroke*, 0 to 1/8th throttle,
                      and one kick as hard as you can. right thru the peg if possible.

                      no start? repeat steps 3 &4 only. should light in 3-4 tries cold.
                      dont be a wimp, kick it like chuck norris....

                      *sorry had to add a few things there, heh heh... its been awhile.
                      Last edited by fatguyzinc; October 26, 2015, 08:38 PM.

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                      • I fixed the problem
                        I got cash and this in trade


                        about starting it.1) lean over until fuel runs out the vent. 2) rock back and forth. 3) kick 4 times. 4) pull choke on, kick twice. If it doesn't start, do steps 2-4 again. It will start.
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                        • Nice solution. I've been looking for something similar myself, a friend turned his river bottom woods into several neat trails. Boys are thinking he needs help using said trails.
                          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                          • I hate starting a whole new thread, so I think this will become my motorcycle/atv/utv catch bucket....

                            So the bike sold and came with a trade.
                            I got what I wanted for it plus this


                            a 2004 TRX 450r

                            outside of being pretty scuffed up, it's a nice bike. That was several months ago, the carb was always kind of finicky, and finally it just wouldn't start.... so pull it apart (and if you ever do this, there's a great youtube video on taking this apart)



                            I can't get over how unmolested it is... and it has plenty of nuts for playing.... IF I keep it, I will probably start with the suspension and leave the motor alone.

                            so I pulled the carb off, and somewhere in the advice was "don't screw with the TPS" - so I priced the rebuild kit at the local honda dealer, and on a whim I asked them how much to rebuild... $175 including kit.... yeah... the kit is $40, tax is $20, a rebuild book is $45 - and I don't smell like gas for 2 weeks... done
                            so I stacked it back together and waited.


                            oh forgot to mention, when I was pulling the carb I got about 1/2 gallon of gas out of the float bowl.... ummm... no... I clamped the fuel line and then got a couple ounces... the problem. All of my seasonal stuff gets drained because dried seals are so much easier deal with then alcohol talc screwing up the carb. Of course, I dutifully turned the fuel off but it didn't shut off. So the carb was full of talc. It's even worse in Washington since Arco is one of two major refiners - and usually the cheapest gas.... and they love alcohol... seriously, get 10-15% better fuel economy on anything but Arco.... I digress.... so I ordered a new valve (can't rebuild the old one).... comes with a new fuel hose

                            the carb came back today

                            and was installed... still waiting for the valve
                            so stacked again.... but close

                            As I said though, I don't know what my plans are for this - I still think I'd find a UTV with a bed more useful, but until then.... powerslides will be happening in my yard
                            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                            • I did 2 things on all my small motors.. 2 strokes and 4, bought only non alky super.. Yes even the mowers..and use Sta-bil.. Year round.. Been 15 years since I had to fudge with the carbs! Do not drain them either..
                              Your results may differ..

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                              • not a bad idea, problem is it gets put on the list, the list gets lost, and then promptly forgotten about.
                                Doing it all wrong since 1966

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