James is partial to those big ugly HEI caps.... I prefer the stealthier approach with the small cap distributor for a vintage look - but I generally use the big cap for the larger terminals and easier to find wires. The one big beef I have with the typical Ford OEM distributors is the burried mechanical advance mechanism.... GM certainly got that right putting it right under the rotor - instead of under the point plate!
Looks like TFI coil is the preferred unit for this conversion. I just happen to have a couple of them sitting around. I also picked up a BWD C200 distributor cap yesterday. It is an HEI terminal small diameter cap that fits Ford distributors. Originally, it is a cap for an International 345 V8.
I love the HEI on the Mustang. Since I locked out the timing, it has been awesome even when the rotor button in the cap was almost completely shredded at the end of DW12. I don't think the giant cap style would fit the truck very well. With the factory intake, it would be a tight fit if it would fit at all.
Locking out the timing mechanism isn't exactly a robust test of a distributor - but it works! I'm going to play around with ported and manifold vacuum and all that after I get the falcon on the road and driving to work regularly - then I'll probably end up putting EFI on it anyway...
I might just make a plate that will bolt to the empty spot on the front of the passenger cyl head that I can mount the TFI coil, HEI module and a relay triggered by the ignition switch. All neat and clean and easy to get to.
Just make sure that module can keep relatively cool. This is what I did to a Ford TFIM....cannabalized a heat sink from a junk computer. Worked great to cure my overheated TFIM (and then not running) E-350'S 351.
Good time to take all that out and get rid of the epoxy coated ignition box that was known to go bad on you out of know where, especially at night, in the rain. Maybe put an HEI module in it and re-wire from scratch using the duraspark as the trigger.
Yep, at least it was only around the block at the time
Started messing with the conversion last night. I dug around and found a whole set of HEI style plug wires and a repurposed aluminum sign to cut down and use as a mount.
The GM module will mount below the coil and will keep the wiring very neat and minimal.
The whole setup will bolt to the passenger cylinder head and should get plenty of air flow from the engine fan. The heater hose has to bend around the coil a bit, but I think it will be fine. I suppose I could rotate the fitting and make the hose go up and over. Time will tell.
Tonight though, I am going to dive into the rubber brake line (all 3) & rear wheel cylinder replacement project. Not real excited about it, but it has to be done.
While you're replacing rubber parts - perhaps you should address those coolant hoses before it gets hot?
Re-routing the heater hose that will end up right in front of the HEI module might be a good idea too - in it's current position it will block air flow and add heat to the module?
Very cool that the entire ignition system will be mounted in a single location - easy wiring! Nice work as usual - have you pulled the distributor apart to adjust the mechanical advance curve?
Last edited by milner351; March 21, 2014, 06:47 AM.
Heater hoses are on the to-do list, just not the immediate to-do list. lol
When I had the distributor out last, I peeked in through a hole in the plate on the distributor and it has a 13 and an 18 slot. It is set up using the 13, so it has 26 degrees of mechanical advance, which I think is fine.
sounds good - the last dura-spark I messed with had two slots that were both longer than that - I filled the shorter one parially with jb weld putty... now it has about 20 degrees of mech advance.... you're all set!
Wow. First experience with brakes on semi-floating axles. Giant pain in the butt, but the wheel cylinders and rear hose are swapped. Drums and shoes look good, and man, those drums are heavy! Surprisingly, I only had to disconnect the parking brake and remove 1 spring in order to wiggle the wheel cylinders out. Very happy I didn't have to disassemble all of it. Did not have time to bleed this evening though.
Had a little time to play today after spending most of the day at a middle school tennis tournament. I replaced both front rubber lines and while I was there I took the angle grinder and clearanced those two bolt bosses on the calipers that made me have to use a spacer on the front wheels. It didn't take a whole of grinding to fix it and I am much happier without the spacers. I also worked a little on the ignition replacement. I put on the new cap and sorted through the plug wires I had to find 8 that fit properly. Then I did a little of the wiring, but did not have time to do it all. Maybe I can do that tomorrow and bleed the brakes.
Got the relay for the ignition wired up. 12v from the battery and it is switched via the small post on the starter relay that is hot in RUN. This evening, unless I have other stuff to do, I might get the rest of the wiring done and the ignition installed.
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