Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1973 F-250 - Workhorse Revival -> Sport Truck -> Turbo Truck (Well Over $5k Now)

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 1973 F-250 - Workhorse Revival -> Sport Truck -> Turbo Truck (Well Over $5k Now)

    Take a trip in the way back machine with me to the year 1986. The epic year I finally got my driver's license. My dad bought this 1973 F-100 new and daily drove it for many years. I loved that truck and was beside myself with excitement that it was going to me mine. It was a dog. 2bbl 302/C4, PS and manual brakes. I drove it for a few years and decided it would be a good idea to get a Ranger to drive while in college. We sold it to my next door neighbor and he drove it for several years. He eventually sold it and the last time I saw it, it was in sad shape. Click image for larger version  Name:	1909609_45956379484_7659_n.jpg Views:	1 Size:	61.5 KB ID:	1093777
    Click image for larger version  Name:	1909609_45956369484_6556_n.jpg Views:	2 Size:	64.7 KB ID:	1093779



    At Amarillo Dragway - ran solid 19's. lol Click image for larger version  Name:	1909609_45956359484_5061_n.jpg Views:	1 Size:	37.5 KB ID:	1093776
    Click image for larger version  Name:	1909609_45956364484_5553_n.jpg Views:	1 Size:	44.7 KB ID:	1093778



    Fast forward to 2013!!

    I have been wanting a pickup ever since I traded the Mazdog (99 4x4 B4000) in on Julie's Mountaineer. I really wanted an older one that I could easily work on, so I decided I wanted an old Ford or a Dodge. I decided I really wanted a 3/4 ton truck with a decent sized engine and automatic trans so I could use it to pull my big trailer and Mustang. I have been watching Craigslist, etc for several years now just waiting for the right deal to come my way.

    Yesterday I ran across a 1973 2wd F-250 LWB. 460, C6 transmission and a Dana 60.... best part was the price.... $500. An added bonus is that it is at least partially the same color as my first truck. Man I would have loved to have had a 460 truck in high school!

    This truck was last registered in 1994 and has been parked in a barn ever since. Although the big mirrors and emblems are gone, it is a "Camper Special", which really does not mean a whole lot as far as running gear goes.

    Well it made it 7 miles to my house. It definitely needs work. Doors rattle, steering wheel is thrashed motor misses pretty bad, but does not smoke. There is a leak in the fuel lines (dual tanks) so we drove it using a 2 gallon gas can bungee'd to the inner fender. lol Motor ran cool in spite of stop and go traffic and the oil pressure looked great. Power steering works GREAT, brakes are awesome, trans shifts nice but the old bias ply tires are square as a rubik's cube. Interior is pretty dirty, speedo does not work, no keys (you start it with a screwdriver) but has a new battery.

    There is one rust hole in the passenger fender and the spot above the driver's rear fender is just barely starting to rust. It looks pretty clean underneath so far. It had a camper on it for years so I am hoping the bed is in decent shape. It came with 4 chrome wagon wheels and 2 white wagon wheels and a bed load of crap that was in the camper. I rubbed a spot on the yellow and it shined right up so maybe there is hope for the paint. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-20131204-01463.jpg Views:	1 Size:	230.5 KB ID:	1093780
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG-20131205-01480.jpg Views:	1 Size:	242.0 KB ID:	1093781




    The plan is to clean clean clean and get it running good and reliable. Then buff up the paint and replace some of the missing trim, etc. Then I can start diving into the engine for more power and efficiency (lol). If I spend anywhere near $5000 on this thing, I will probably have a heart attack. I am thinking the wagon wheels with some sort of A/T tire, buffed up paint, refurbished trim, aluminum diamond plate tool box and a decent hitch on the back.

    I can't wait to get started!
    Last edited by BBR; August 14th, 2018, 01:18 PM.

  • BBR
    replied
    Now that the brakes are corrected and partially bled, I can start thinking about other, more entertaining stuff. My original plan was to tie the Megasquirt to the stock EFI truck wiring harness. When I was removing it from the engine, I decided it was in poor enough condition that I should just make a new one. Off the top of the engine, I only have to connect 8 injectors, an intake air temp sensor, an engine coolant sensor and a throttle position sensor. And with the MS being mounted in the glovebox, it only makes sense to make a small custom harness that runs straight back through the firewall.

    In order to make a harness, I needed injector connectors. I could have tried to reuse the stock ones but again, many were in poor shape. I found some adapters on ebay for $14. They have the proper EV1 connector and they click on the injectors nice and solid.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20190522_133654.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	987.9 KB
ID:	1243732

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied


    I never completely agreed with the maiden voyage philosophy / requirement of (choose one) a working horn, emergency brake, or manual transmission. You're gonna need some brakes. Good ones. Nice catch!


    Good news is that I only flared 1 line without first putting the fitting on. Haha
    Click image for larger version  Name:	th?id=OIP.Ml0fTfyRN8xCAd8LIy0WWwAAAA&w=257&h=198&c=7&o=5&pid=1.7.jpg Views:	1 Size:	13.9 KB ID:	1243534

    Guess it's okay if the other end wasn't already flared.





    Last edited by Beagle; May 20th, 2019, 07:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    The focus the last few days had been on getting the brake lines sorted and fixed. To recap, this thing has always been hard to bleed and the pedal was always lower than I thought it ahould be. I discovered that somewhere along the way, some previous owner plumbed the master cylinder backwards. On a Ford, the large side of the master cylinder (closest to the booster) should be routed to the front disc brakes and the smaller side is for the rear drums.

    The combination valve that these things have is a known problem maker, I decided to use one like the one in my Mustang. It has never given a lick of trouble and performs just as expected. JWS4621 let me rob the one from his parts car.

    Of course this meant having to change some of the brake fittings to the proper size. While doing so, I noticed the line I just setup for the rear brakes was still loose when the fitting was as tight as possible in the mc. I pulled it back off and sure enough, the PO only used a single flare. I cut it off and reflared (double) the line, problem solved.

    Good news is that I only flared 1 line without first putting the fitting on. Haha

    Boring stuff, but completely necessary.
    Last edited by BBR; May 17th, 2019, 06:28 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 74NovaMan
    replied
    Very impressive pipe!

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    This is one of the threads I get an email when there is an update. I always read updates. I don't reply when I can't think of anything helpful or "funny"
    Last edited by Russell; May 7th, 2019, 04:46 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deaf Bob
    replied
    Thanks Beagle! Seems like I am talking to myself most of the time. Haha
    I read this... So you talk to the daf guy and don't hear it...

    Leave a comment:


  • STINEY
    replied
    I vote just put the nose back on and save the fabri-cobbling for when its needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Idk. Currently debating whether I should go ahead and put the front end back on before breaking in the cam, or just trying to cobble everything up to make it run.

    Starting to think I will just put the nose back on just so I am not making extra work for myself.

    Leave a comment:


  • Russell
    replied
    What is the ETBO? (Estimated time burn out)

    ​​​​​​

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Thanks Beagle! Seems like I am talking to myself most of the time. Haha

    Leave a comment:


  • Beagle
    replied
    I was gonna just "like" it, but decided I had to say that turned out Nice!

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Friday evening I built the down pipe. It seems straight forward, but was a little tricky. The sheer size of the pipe made it difficult to cut with my chop saw and it is hard to just grab it and hold it with one hand. It needed one small dent to clear the cab mount a little better, but that's no big deal.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20190503_212639.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	964.7 KB
ID:	1242083Click image for larger version

Name:	20190503_212740.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	1,020.0 KB
ID:	1242084Click image for larger version

Name:	20190503_212747.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	999.5 KB
ID:	1242085

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    Holy cow this stuff is big. Stapler for scale. Haha. Bought these aluminized parts from ebay seller "truck-trailer-direct". Very good prices, and free shipping. They got here quick too.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20190503_135952.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	868.0 KB
ID:	1241954

    Leave a comment:


  • BBR
    replied
    It's 5"! Haha.

    I ordered a 90 deg bend with 18" legs and 2 36" sections of pipe. Should be enough to get it about where I want it.

    I considered running it through the fender or just dumping it right behind the front tire, but that would probably be stupid loud. I think I am going to run it back and put a 5" resonator muffler on it because some streetcar-style races around here require exhaust past the firewall and a muffler, even for turbo cars/trucks.

    I try to do at least one little thing to it every day. I like to say "I didn't do much, but it was more than nothing".

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X