Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The Orangu Tones

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • The Orangu Tones

    Time to start the engine rebuild on the 62 Rambler Classic SW.
    88k miles plus.
    Going with 60 over pistons and a T5 trans with an Explorer 3.73 limited slip disc brake 8.8.
    Up to now $600 for the car, $400 for the tires, $300 to convert to disc front brakes and $97.37 for the rear axle at the pull a part. Seats were free from my partners sons Bonneville before it was scrapped.
    $150 for the exhaust, $100 for the new pistons.
    The wheels were on our 73 Gremlin when we took it on the 2012
    Power Tour. Carpet and fake spinners were $75 total from JC Whitney. Steering wheel was free from a scrapped Mustang II.
    We are pulling the engine over the Xmas holiday to start the rebuild.
    196 OHV straight six. When finished we might have 140 HP.

    Nick
    Attached Files
    Last edited by nickleone; December 22, 2013, 09:20 PM.

  • #2
    We made it to the Pull and Pay in Denver CO today.
    Picked up a T5 and a drive shaft for under $150.
    It has an electronic speedo drive so we are looking at alternative speedos.
    Might just use the GPS till we figure it out.
    Nick

    Comment


    • #3
      I believe you can use an older T5 speedo cable which is purely mechanical, fits in the same hole with o-ring seal.
      that's what I had to do with my AOD.
      There's always something new to learn.

      Comment


      • #4
        I took apart the speed sensor on the T5 and found I could place a mechanical cable in the hole.
        The mechanical drive hole is plugged with a white plug. Remove it and make a retaining clip and I will be able to get it connected to the speedo once I change the Ford slip on at the speedo to a screw on fitting.
        Nick

        Comment


        • #5
          Pulled the head yesterday. It was about 55 degrees out. Today 3 inches of snow on the ground. Looks like we will wait to pull the engine.
          Nick

          Comment


          • #6
            I hear you on the weather killing progress.... it's going to be too cold to even think about warming up the shop for a week or so here, it will be all I can do to keep up with the snow.

            Be careful out there everybody!
            There's always something new to learn.

            Comment


            • #7
              We pulled the engine out of the 62 Classic sw this past weekend.
              We have .060 over pistons for it. No ridge in the cylinders that we can feel.
              The head had almost non existent valve seals and the valves are worn. I got all the crud off
              the valve with a wire wheel. Note, I heated the valve faces with a propane torch till I saw some burn off of carbon deposits and that made it easier to take the carbon off with the wire wheel.
              We are waiting for springs to arrive to send the head out for work.
              The block is on the engine stand and we will work on it the next few weeks.

              Nick

              Comment


              • #8
                pics?
                There's always something new to learn.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Pulled the pistons last week end. Rod bearings look great as well as the crank. Haven't pulled the main caps yet.
                  #1 cylinder has depression near the top of the bore. The piston had no top ring a mangled ring land and the second ring was mostly carbon with little
                  ring left. Slight scaring in a few of the cylinders. When we get it to the machine shop we will find out if the 60 over cut will take care of the depression.
                  Might have to have a sleeve.
                  The head is at a machine shop and making very slow progress. The cam and lifters are ready to be sent out for a "performance" regrind. LOL
                  Will most likely get the block etc to the machine shop in the next 2 weeks.

                  Nick

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Main bearings look as good as the con rods.
                    Engine is fully broken down will get it to the machine shop in April.
                    Cam is going out today to Elgin cams in Santa Rosa CA tonite.
                    Nick

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Got the head back. New guides, new modern seals. New seats installed and new valves. $394 for the head, plus $150 for the valves and springs.
                      Cam came back from D Elgin in CA. $375 for the performance regrind and resurface the mushroom lifters.
                      Block still not at the machine shop. It might make it this month.
                      Sent out the original clock to be repaired (THE CLOCK WORKS in Eagle River WI) $72.95 and it ticks and tocks well now.

                      Nick

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Block, crank rods and pistons in machine shop. #1 cylinder is getting a sleeve. We have big bore pistons,.060 oversize.
                        Crank is getting cut .010. Should have the block back next week.
                        Nick

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Block and crank cost for work $890.
                          That brings us up to about $4000.
                          Nick

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            My partner in crime(co owner of the car) found some ARP studs for the head and bottom end for less than the cost of the head studs from the normal speed shops online .http://www.allensfasteners.com/default.asp
                            Total cost was about $150 for 21 studs etc.

                            Nick
                            Last edited by nickleone; August 19, 2014, 12:09 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Finally after about 3 changes to the cam position according to the TSM we have the correct cam timing. The engine runs an idles.
                              Now to set the valve clearances and check the timing.
                              Nick

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X