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  • #46
    The ports dont need more lift, they are high velocity, venturi shaped, so low lifts work on street engines. Its why they are big on torque. The lifter bores aren't a problem until 700 lift or with very aggressive solid roller lobes. I don't need cams larger than that because I'm not getting the heads ported yet. I want to see how well the 6X can do on its own.

    The big cams require a brace that bolts into the lifter galley, they're called mega braces. I have one in my high powered 467 for insurance, even though it has only 660 ish lift. When I build a RAV engine it will get the brace, because those ports can utilize more lift. The street cams for RAV heads have 770 lift, and those ports are huge, damn near 351C 4V size, I think bigger.

    http://lmc3470.wix.com/mccarty-racin...-engines/c1qul out of the budget for this one, but if I can sell something and get the funds for that top end, it will go on one of my other 400 blocks.

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    • #47
      Check this out Todd, Performance Cartel Has the old school e-heads for a dollar each.... http://performancecartel.com/store/e...html#.VJj6asBA

      If you order any throw a couple in for me and I'll gladly pay you Tuesday.
      Last edited by G-Motive; December 22, 2014, 10:38 PM.

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      • #48
        Watching some TV and this guy is making a crossbow with scrap lumber, steel, and a chunk of pvc pipe. He cuts a 4x4 in the shape he wants, then heats the wood with a propane weed burner, puts the pvc between the halves and clamps them together. Out pops a flexible recurve bow. Why does this matter? I am making fiberglass body parts, and I need to use something to add rigidity to the pieces that is lightweight, easy to work with, strong enough to actually do something, and inexpensive. Sure I could use wood, but making the other three hoods would be a pain to copy all the support structure. Build a mold for the support and I can reproduce parts quick and easy.

        The silly things you see when watching the discovery channel.

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        • #49
          the only thing I wouldn't like about PVC is it gets floppy like that when it gets warm. Like under a hood.
          Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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          • #50
            We'll have to see if its an issue, and if it gets hot enough to make it sag.

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            • #51
              if it doesn't work out, they make fiberglass sucker rod for oil wells that might work for ya.
              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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              • #52
                Fibre glass fence posts for electric fences.. 4-5-6 foot lengths.. Just a suggestion..
                They are 3/8" dia and solid.. A pack comes with a hunk to put on the tops to hammer them into the ground and not fray..
                Last edited by Deaf Bob; December 30, 2014, 10:23 PM.

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
                  Fibre glass fence posts for electric fences.. 4-5-6 foot lengths.. Just a suggestion..
                  They are 3/8" dia and solid.. A pack comes with a hunk to put on the tops to hammer them into the ground and not fray..

                  Hhmmm, tractor supply. I'm always finding car stuff at other types of stores. Good call Bob. Engine should be done this week. So might be having pics up soon.

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                  • #54
                    This is just the short of thing that this forum is so great about - the collaboration of ideas from all over the world.

                    It seems there are a lot of places where "specialty components" are actually just re-sourced "regular stuff" from a different market.

                    nothing beats reinforcing a material with another like material - same thermal expansion rates, no cracks, etc.... have you ever seen guys use tig filler rod to reinforce or make body lines in fiberglass work? It always cracks! different materials...
                    There's always something new to learn.

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                    • #55
                      Also PVC grows in length when it get warm.
                      Tom
                      Overdrive is overrated


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                      • #56
                        The fence post idea sounds good, so I'm going with that. I have an idea for the pvc, but not on the car. Lots of cool ideas floating around my head. Really can't wait to have my shop done so I don't have to deal with other people and driving 15 miles just to do something.

                        Did the math today. A 400 with 10cc domes, and 101cc heads, will have 9.2:1, and with 72cc heads it will be 12.52:1,which works for me. The rest of the car is looking to be dirt cheap, so it just might get aluminum heads at some point, but for now some 6X with a valve job and new springs will work. I can use them on another engine, like a twin turbo 350. No, I don't think right. Too much is almost enough and I van never have too many good parts.

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                        • #57
                          I was checking around to see how far guys have ported 6X's and it looks like you can get them to flow some decent numbers. As far as running any 72cc heads I wouldn't want to run that much compression with cast iron on the street, odds are you'll be running hot.

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                          • #58
                            I run ethanol, so compression is my friend. The 70 GTO has 13:1 in it's 455, by way of milled 48 heads and a 4.25" crank making it a nice mild street engine with tons of torque. 12.5 is nothing, tuning compression that low on ethanol is like 8:1 on gas, you can really screw things up and it will be fine.

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                            • #59
                              I'm reading that ethanol absorbs moisture. Should help keep your cylinders nice and clean provided the car doesn't sit very long.

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                              • #60
                                The moisture ethanol absorbs is minimal, and is not an issue for other reasons. To cause a problem with a fuel system, the water has to be greater than 20%, meaning you wont see anything happen until there is more than four gallons of water in a 20 gallon tank. The fuel I produce has between 4% and 15% water in it as it comes out the still. There is no need to get it all out, it can be as much as 40%water and still be used as fuel very easily. If you have 0% water, anhydrous ethanol, it will only absorb 4% to 8% from the air, which is definitely not an issue. Water in gasoline is a big problem, but not in ethanol because it mixes easily, while water doesn't mix with gasoline at all. Ethanol is the exact same stuff sold as whiskey, beer, and wine, and you can water down whiskey and be unable to tell.

                                The 70 GTO has had E85 in it since 2007, and E10 before that. It has the original lines, pick up, and tank, the only thing I changed was installing a Carter electric street pump back when it was running E10. On pump gas the stock pumps couldn't keep up with the 455 under acceleration, but the electric pump did. I didn't change anything when I put it on E85, other than the carb. The tank is spotless inside, no varnish smell, no rust, just perfectly clean metal. It sits all winter with some fuel in the tank, not full, and it evaporates from the float bowls. In the spring I put a battery in it, hit the pump to prime the bowl, and it starts up like it ran twenty minutes ago.

                                I won't run anything else in my old cars, mainly because everything in the fuel system and engine lasts so much longer, its less expensive, and it makes more power while driving far better. Ethanol doesn't go bad when it sits, provided it's not exposed to sunlight, if it did 12 year old scotch would be worthless. I put 87 octane in the 65 GTO because my ex father in law was going to drive it, and the gas went bad in four months, varnished the tank real bad, and would barely run until I flushed it out. That car is getting an ethanol carb this spring, even with its 8:1 400 it will drive and run better. I know, this is almost exactly opposite what you hear about ethanol, but this is how it works for me.

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