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'68 Mustang project Trade for VW Type 3 / 2

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  • '68 Mustang project Trade for VW Type 3 / 2

    Hey folks, 3 Mustangs is at least one too many so I'm gonna try to trade one away so I can work on something different. Here's the ad I posted on TheSamba and CL.

    I’ve been out of the VW scene for over 20 years and my cousin is getting me back into it so I figured The Samba is the best place to start. I already have two running ’67 Mustangs so I’m looking to trade my ’68 Mustang project for 71/ older Type 3 or 67/ older Type 2 projects. Primer or bad paint is cool and I'm flexible on upholstery/ seats and engine as long as the car/ bus is fairly complete and the body is in decent condition. I'm basically looking for something that I can get started on and once running I'll slowly work on customizing and cosmetics.

    My ’68 has valid paperwork and is currently non-op’d. Yours must also have valid paperwork with no fines/ penalties waiting for me at DMV and no Salvage Titles. I’ve been bitten in the past by these so don’t want to mess with them. My cousin will be helping me sort through any offers since he’s my goto expert so please don’t try to unload your junk on me. My ’68 is a good base project with suspension pretty much done and sheet metal work already started. Although it still needs more work/ parts, when complete the Mustang will be a fun and pretty much universally desirable car whether you finish building it for track or street. I’d vote for both so you can enjoy it more often. Though it sickens me to think of it, it could likely be parted out for more money.

    The metalwork/ fab I did isn’t the prettiest because I haven't done the finish grinding yet but it is solid. I was building this for my wife but after we picked up the 2nd ’67 my plans changed. I was leaning toward building a commuter that can also be used at an entry level for local autocross events. I’ve just gotten to the point that I don’t want to build another Mustang so I’m looking for a change. If I cannot find a reasonable trade however, I will keep building it. Athough I’ve definitely gotten bit and want to get back into VW’s, I’m not desparate or willing to give it away because of all the work and money already invested.

    All I can say is no so please don’t hesitate to contact me if you have a car you think I’d be interested in. I have a trailer so I can bring it to you or meet half way for the exchange depending on your distance from Manteca, CA. In an attempt to keep from wasting both out times and fuel, I suggest we come to an agreement after seeing each others cars, if possible, before arranging the transport.

    Prices listed are primarily for the hardware/ sheetmetal as I did most of the labor myself. If you add the numbers you’ll come up with over $4000 and I did not include paid values on everything. That also does not include the car itself with clean paperwork, front fender assemblies, hood, etc…

    What I’ve done to the car so far

    I started with the suspension and then moved to sheet metal. You can see 93 pix of the work and the parts that come with it at this link:

    Please look at all these pictures and read the whole ad before asking questions.

    ---Rear Suspension
    -8” Rear End Rebuilt - third member rebuilt ($250) with new bearings and 3.50 gears. 28 spline xles also have new bearings installed ($60). New brake hard lines, brake line splitter hose, and vent with filter to keep dust out
    -New rear disk brake setup using NEW ’85 Mustang SVO rotors with NEW Cadillac El Dorado calipers ($120) which have parking break provision. Will provide part numbers for easy replacement and local parts house chain. Have two spare calipers for cores.
    -NEW Grab-A-Track 4 1/2 leaf mid-eye springs ($290) from Mustangs Plus
    -NEW shackles and bushings ($30).
    -Grab-A-Track ($86) Rear sway bar – not installed

    ---Front Suspension
    -Grab-A-Track 620 springs ($80) lowered by cutting one coil out
    -NEW upper ($150) / lower ($80) control arms and spring perches ($38)
    -NEW Granada style Disk brake setup from spindles out. ($525) Kit from CSRP ( Includes NEW spindles, rotors w/ bearings, calipers, pads, caliper mounts, dust shields, master cylinder, outer tierod ends, hoses
    -Grab-A-Track Front swaybar ($90) 1” – I believe it’s NEW
    -NEW inner tierod ends ($160) and NEW adjusting sleeves ($18)
    -NEW Grab-A-Track Idler arm ($50)
    -Griffin built to fit aluminum radiator with trans cooler in bottom tank for 67 Mustang– needs boiling out as it has been sitting awhile, has some repair work done on it.

    ---Sheetmetal and work done
    -The cars shell (fenders/ hood/ doors/ trunk/ suspension removed) was blasted inside-out ($600) after I put the new floors in and then shot with a heavy primer sealer by a local shop. ($650)
    -NEW Lower door hinge ($130) – both sides
    -NEW floor pans ($100) on both sides installed
    -NEW Firewall floor pan extensions ($60) installed
    -NEW Convertible one piece seat pan ($100) modified to lower seats and installed for side to side rigidity – did it before they offered one specifically for coupe/ fastback
    -Mini-tubbed to frame rails – NEW inner wheel houses ($86)wheel wells complete and solid but need to finish area connecting to trunk floor and inside floor and the interior seam – not pretty but solid – I planned to dynamat it all when complete
    -Made subframe connectors from 2”x2” tubing
    -Driverside rear quarter rear lower portion cut out and replaced with piece from a --NEW quarter panel skin($60) – Floor pan trunk dropoff ($15) also replaced for rust repair.
    -Also have NEW passenger quarter panel skin ($60) to repair small area or you can replace the whole thing.
    -NEW Rear Fender Aprons ($60) – these are the hood hinge panels between shock towers and firewall - replaced on both sides.
    -NEW Outer Shock Tower Cover ($86) – both sides
    -NEW hood hinges ($30)
    -NEW upper and lower cowl pieces ($400) – not installed – mocked up and cleko’d – fresh air intakes sealed as I planned on using aftermarket A/C – heater combo. I also tacked in panels to seal up the outter cowl vents but they can easily be removed or if you like them, final welded.
    -NEW trunk lid ($166)
    -NEW battery tray ($10)
    -Started Firewall fill – as mentioned above, I planned to use aftermarket A/C – heater unit and run lines outside of engine compartment

    ---Other stuff
    -NEW DashesDirect Dash pad ($150) – blue
    -16” ’94 Mustang chrome wheels ($200) - new center covers in a box ( – they need to be blased as there is corrosion I didn’t see on two of them when I bought them because the guy had them stacked. I used 4 NEW 1” spacers with studs ($125) to push the wheels out to the right location. I was actually considering blasting the wheels and then having them powder coated black. Currently have 225/60 and 245/60 tires one leaks down within a few days.
    -Rebuilt windshield washer motor and NEW leather gaskets
    -Set of small block V8 frame mounts
    -Doors have working windows and rear
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Dignlif; December 19, 2012, 03:17 PM.

    Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017

  • #2
    I'm not sure what's going on but here's the rest of it

    -Doors have working windows and rear 1/4 windows are complete in a box
    - I have a back window but no windshield
    -NO engine or transmission


    I have a rebuilt Art Carr AOD with 32-3600 stall converter (looks like billet back) but I paid $925 to have the trans rebuilt and the converter cut open and checked out so I will need additional trade value or cash to include it. I will include the trans if your trade is exceptional. I also have the required crossmember to fit the car.

    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by Dignlif; December 19, 2012, 03:25 PM.

    Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017


    • #3
      you got bit by the infamous Apostrophe bug.

      What would you do for an outright sale price?
      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.


      • #4
        rich, have you checked the classifieds on ?
        Charles W - BS Photographer at large


        • #5
          Originally posted by BOOOGHAR View Post
          rich, have you checked the classifieds on ?
          Sorry forgot I put this here. Yeah I put it up on the Samba too but I think anybody halfway interested was afraid of the welding that needed to be done. It came down to that and/or they thought their non running squares were worth more. I pulled that ad and decided to get back to work on it since the interest was weak. Hey Beags, I think I had 27 or 2900 on the CL ad but I took that one down too.

          I got most of the welding done in 2 days so the cowl pieces are in and the mini tubs and relocated trunk hinge mounts are done too. I brushed everything with seam sealer so it ready for floor covering. Since I'm putting more work and money into it, I'm gonna keep it now and continue making it a daily driver. I'm looking to source a 4BT for it now...

          Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017


          • #6
            Originally posted by Dignlif View Post
            ... I'm looking to source a 4BT for it now...
            you are my freaking HERO! I randomly threaten to do that with a Fox. It's something like 700 pounds, close to a BBF. I think they are 30" tall though, probably requires a 3" cowl.
            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.


            • #7
              DUDE - we are clearly brothers separated at birth! fanfackintastic!

              Are you sure the 4bt is the best option?

              I wonder if the VW 1.9 TDI might be a better fit - certainly much lighter - and all the benefits of electronic control for a daily driver.
              also - way way WAY quieter.
              There's always something new to learn.


              • #8
                I really like the idea of the 4BT except the cost as I'm finding is kinda up there. I do know someone who does lots of support work for local farmers/ ranchers so I was gonna ask him about scrounging me a well used one. They have adapters to put all kinds of transmissions behind them but I believe it will take an overdrive mopar trans too. I'm cool with a cowl hood or something like that to make it work.

                you know I read in several places about the VW tdi setup getting tremendous mileage, besides being very commuter friendly/ quiet...especially compared to the RAMbunctious 4BT. I thought the VW's were all front wheel drive though.?. Do you know of any halfway modern models that are rear wheel drive? If I had a place to start I could hit the local pick n pulls. I'd have to get the engine/ trans/ ECU as a package. Having a driveline made probably wouldn't be a big deal with the VW yoke.
                Last edited by Dignlif; January 2, 2013, 12:04 PM.

                Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017


                • #9
                  I'm betting the vast interwebs have info - in fact I think Scott had some links on converting the TDI to RWD.

                  Dan is doing the other somewhat common conversion - benz diesel pre-computer...

                  The other one that would be easy but is nearly impossible to find is the Ranger diesels from the 80's - not big on power though.

                  I don't think any of the V diesels would work - and they're heavy (powerstroke, 6.9, 7.3, duramax, 6.0, 6.4, 6.7 etc)
                  There's always something new to learn.


                  • #10
                    ok, I'll look more into the 1.9L vw. Yeah the 6BT and all the v's are over 900 pounds-yikes. The only other option I'm considering is a 2.3L Pinto motor and eventually adding a turbo. Not nearly as wild as the Huber setup, just something with some economy but also some sack to move me on the freeway.

                    I think I'll wander out to the local PnP in the next day or two and wander around to see what they have these days and what the prices are.

                    Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017


                    • #11
                      From the TDI forums:

                      Here is my volvo 240 with a rwd tdi setup. Its a toyota W58 transmission with an adapter plate to a 1.9 tdi. That said, i think a tdi may be the wrong choice for your app. While you can make some good power (I have some R520s, vnt 20 turbo, 11mm IP etc) its not a burnout king. A cummins 4bt would make some serious torque and would would fit your app a little better imho.

                      Here is my project
                      My volvo 245 tdi having some fun on a dry lake. It has a 1.9 tdi motor with a vnt20 turbo, and race 520 injectors. Clutch was a lot and the tune is quite r...

                      There's always something new to learn.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Dignlif View Post
                        I'm looking to source a 4BT for it now...
                        The best place to find 4BT's are heavy equipment & machinery yards.
                        Cores & high milers usually start around $1500, lower mile runners are about $3500-up.

                        The links below are from the same company, in Chicago Illinois.


                        • #13
                          awesome! thanks guys

                          I have been taking pictures all along but probably won't start a project thread until I actually get an engine and start that fab part of it.

                          Drag Week Survivor 2009, 2011, 2012, 2013 - 2nd Place - Pro Street N/A, 2017


                          • #14
                            My problem with TDI's is you have to get all the ignition / computer to go with it (antitheft). I'm not sure if Megasquirt has a controller for it, but it would probably be well received. They have been putting VW diesels in front of Samurai's for years. I was looking at that and a Toyota 20R whatever they are 5 speed from a truck since they are easy to find adapters for.

                            I think I'd go for the Cummins and dynamat the car... 1.9 v 3.9 ... I'm leaning towards the 4BT or an Isuzu 4BD1t. The VW guys seem way proud of their junk too. The 4BT used to be cheaper, I wish I had bought a few years back. The tractor motors are imminently rebuildable being sleeved mills. I'm not sure on the Vdub if it's sleeved or not, but hell, a single overbore would probably go a couple hundred thousand miles. I want to accommodate the 4BT and use compounds on a bigger pump and worked injectors and start thinking about a 9" rear.

                            Either would be cool, but I'm starting to think 4BT for when the zombies come during the Nottapocalypse. 4BT is immune to electro-magnetic pulses. hahaha.

                            /edit - the 1.9 doesn't make any noise because they don't make any power HAHAHHAHAA... I mean, if you're gonna go with a 4 cylinder, go Big Block! lmao. Monica says "awwww what a cute puppy" by the way. I say "Yeah, cute like this back tire?"

                            Sorry I'm chattering but this project stokes the hell out of me. Do you have to emissions a 44 year old with a diesel? They'd have a stroke!!

                            2.50 gear and 600 foot pounds, I bet you can still go over 40 mpg with the 4BT and make women squeal when you hit the smoke pedal.
                            Last edited by Beagle; January 2, 2013, 04:28 PM.
                            Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by tardis454 View Post
                              The best place to find 4BT's are heavy equipment & machinery yards.
                              Cores & high milers usually start around $1500, lower mile runners are about $3500-up.

                              The links below are from the same company, in Chicago Illinois.

                              another good source is Frito Lay or Wonder Bread trucks (although Wonder bread is gonna be a collector) Grumman step vans. They came with TH400's or a toploader, and a lot of them are aluminum bodied which I would use for storage but would be worth a buck or two at the .50 / pound aluminum place! I saw a couple today for 3500-4500 running and driving. The 4500 one is in Wichita and I'm still considering calling him, the ad is 3 days old. He claims it is really tight... I'd want the automotive version, the industrial governer control bothers me. I think one already with a cable setup and a TH400 would be tits.. and the GV guys would probably be more than righteous to Rich.

                              /edit - still chattering... I priced rebuild kits a couple of weeks ago, about 1100 for new liners and pistons, bearings, gaskets...

                              I'm not sure if you've been on ? That is where I originally started looking... this guy was getting 30+ in a 67 F100 (Ranger) SWB with the Isuzu 4BD1t. It's a long thread but if you get a minute or two or 300 available ...
                              I have been gathering parts for my 67 F100 so I can swap in the isuzu 4BD1T. I bought the engine out of a 1990 isuzu npr truck. The engine has been rebuilt and has about a years worth of use and 40,000 miles on it. I will post pics and give progress on this as I go along. So far I have managed...

                     is his web page, he sells adapters for the zoo-zoo 3.9
                              Last edited by Beagle; January 2, 2013, 04:38 PM.
                              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.