Hey folks, 3 Mustangs is at least one too many so I'm gonna try to trade one away so I can work on something different. Here's the ad I posted on TheSamba and CL.
I’ve been out of the VW scene for over 20 years and my cousin is getting me back into it so I figured The Samba is the best place to start. I already have two running ’67 Mustangs so I’m looking to trade my ’68 Mustang project for 71/ older Type 3 or 67/ older Type 2 projects. Primer or bad paint is cool and I'm flexible on upholstery/ seats and engine as long as the car/ bus is fairly complete and the body is in decent condition. I'm basically looking for something that I can get started on and once running I'll slowly work on customizing and cosmetics.
My ’68 has valid paperwork and is currently non-op’d. Yours must also have valid paperwork with no fines/ penalties waiting for me at DMV and no Salvage Titles. I’ve been bitten in the past by these so don’t want to mess with them. My cousin will be helping me sort through any offers since he’s my goto expert so please don’t try to unload your junk on me. My ’68 is a good base project with suspension pretty much done and sheet metal work already started. Although it still needs more work/ parts, when complete the Mustang will be a fun and pretty much universally desirable car whether you finish building it for track or street. I’d vote for both so you can enjoy it more often. Though it sickens me to think of it, it could likely be parted out for more money.
The metalwork/ fab I did isn’t the prettiest because I haven't done the finish grinding yet but it is solid. I was building this for my wife but after we picked up the 2nd ’67 my plans changed. I was leaning toward building a commuter that can also be used at an entry level for local autocross events. I’ve just gotten to the point that I don’t want to build another Mustang so I’m looking for a change. If I cannot find a reasonable trade however, I will keep building it. Athough I’ve definitely gotten bit and want to get back into VW’s, I’m not desparate or willing to give it away because of all the work and money already invested.
All I can say is no so please don’t hesitate to contact me if you have a car you think I’d be interested in. I have a trailer so I can bring it to you or meet half way for the exchange depending on your distance from Manteca, CA. In an attempt to keep from wasting both out times and fuel, I suggest we come to an agreement after seeing each others cars, if possible, before arranging the transport.
Prices listed are primarily for the hardware/ sheetmetal as I did most of the labor myself. If you add the numbers you’ll come up with over $4000 and I did not include paid values on everything. That also does not include the car itself with clean paperwork, front fender assemblies, hood, etc…
What I’ve done to the car so far
I started with the suspension and then moved to sheet metal. You can see 93 pix of the work and the parts that come with it at this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dignlif/sets/72157600545013707/
Please look at all these pictures and read the whole ad before asking questions.
---Rear Suspension
-8” Rear End Rebuilt - third member rebuilt ($250) with new bearings and 3.50 gears. 28 spline xles also have new bearings installed ($60). New brake hard lines, brake line splitter hose, and vent with filter to keep dust out
-New rear disk brake setup using NEW ’85 Mustang SVO rotors with NEW Cadillac El Dorado calipers ($120) which have parking break provision. Will provide part numbers for easy replacement and local parts house chain. Have two spare calipers for cores.
-NEW Grab-A-Track 4 1/2 leaf mid-eye springs ($290) from Mustangs Plus
-NEW shackles and bushings ($30).
-Grab-A-Track ($86) Rear sway bar – not installed
---Front Suspension
-Grab-A-Track 620 springs ($80) lowered by cutting one coil out
-NEW upper ($150) / lower ($80) control arms and spring perches ($38)
-NEW Granada style Disk brake setup from spindles out. ($525) Kit from CSRP (www.diskbrakeswap.com) Includes NEW spindles, rotors w/ bearings, calipers, pads, caliper mounts, dust shields, master cylinder, outer tierod ends, hoses
-Grab-A-Track Front swaybar ($90) 1” – I believe it’s NEW
-NEW inner tierod ends ($160) and NEW adjusting sleeves ($18)
-NEW Grab-A-Track Idler arm ($50)
-Griffin built to fit aluminum radiator with trans cooler in bottom tank for 67 Mustang– needs boiling out as it has been sitting awhile, has some repair work done on it.
---Sheetmetal and work done
-The cars shell (fenders/ hood/ doors/ trunk/ suspension removed) was blasted inside-out ($600) after I put the new floors in and then shot with a heavy primer sealer by a local shop. ($650)
-NEW Lower door hinge ($130) – both sides
-NEW floor pans ($100) on both sides installed
-NEW Firewall floor pan extensions ($60) installed
-NEW Convertible one piece seat pan ($100) modified to lower seats and installed for side to side rigidity – did it before they offered one specifically for coupe/ fastback
-Mini-tubbed to frame rails – NEW inner wheel houses ($86)wheel wells complete and solid but need to finish area connecting to trunk floor and inside floor and the interior seam – not pretty but solid – I planned to dynamat it all when complete
-Made subframe connectors from 2”x2” tubing
-Driverside rear quarter rear lower portion cut out and replaced with piece from a --NEW quarter panel skin($60) – Floor pan trunk dropoff ($15) also replaced for rust repair.
-Also have NEW passenger quarter panel skin ($60) to repair small area or you can replace the whole thing.
-NEW Rear Fender Aprons ($60) – these are the hood hinge panels between shock towers and firewall - replaced on both sides.
-NEW Outer Shock Tower Cover ($86) – both sides
-NEW hood hinges ($30)
-NEW upper and lower cowl pieces ($400) – not installed – mocked up and cleko’d – fresh air intakes sealed as I planned on using aftermarket A/C – heater combo. I also tacked in panels to seal up the outter cowl vents but they can easily be removed or if you like them, final welded.
-NEW trunk lid ($166)
-NEW battery tray ($10)
-Started Firewall fill – as mentioned above, I planned to use aftermarket A/C – heater unit and run lines outside of engine compartment
---Other stuff
-NEW DashesDirect Dash pad ($150) – blue
-16” ’94 Mustang chrome wheels ($200) - new center covers in a box ( – they need to be blased as there is corrosion I didn’t see on two of them when I bought them because the guy had them stacked. I used 4 NEW 1” spacers with studs ($125) to push the wheels out to the right location. I was actually considering blasting the wheels and then having them powder coated black. Currently have 225/60 and 245/60 tires one leaks down within a few days.
-Rebuilt windshield washer motor and NEW leather gaskets
-Set of small block V8 frame mounts
-Doors have working windows and rear
I’ve been out of the VW scene for over 20 years and my cousin is getting me back into it so I figured The Samba is the best place to start. I already have two running ’67 Mustangs so I’m looking to trade my ’68 Mustang project for 71/ older Type 3 or 67/ older Type 2 projects. Primer or bad paint is cool and I'm flexible on upholstery/ seats and engine as long as the car/ bus is fairly complete and the body is in decent condition. I'm basically looking for something that I can get started on and once running I'll slowly work on customizing and cosmetics.
My ’68 has valid paperwork and is currently non-op’d. Yours must also have valid paperwork with no fines/ penalties waiting for me at DMV and no Salvage Titles. I’ve been bitten in the past by these so don’t want to mess with them. My cousin will be helping me sort through any offers since he’s my goto expert so please don’t try to unload your junk on me. My ’68 is a good base project with suspension pretty much done and sheet metal work already started. Although it still needs more work/ parts, when complete the Mustang will be a fun and pretty much universally desirable car whether you finish building it for track or street. I’d vote for both so you can enjoy it more often. Though it sickens me to think of it, it could likely be parted out for more money.
The metalwork/ fab I did isn’t the prettiest because I haven't done the finish grinding yet but it is solid. I was building this for my wife but after we picked up the 2nd ’67 my plans changed. I was leaning toward building a commuter that can also be used at an entry level for local autocross events. I’ve just gotten to the point that I don’t want to build another Mustang so I’m looking for a change. If I cannot find a reasonable trade however, I will keep building it. Athough I’ve definitely gotten bit and want to get back into VW’s, I’m not desparate or willing to give it away because of all the work and money already invested.
All I can say is no so please don’t hesitate to contact me if you have a car you think I’d be interested in. I have a trailer so I can bring it to you or meet half way for the exchange depending on your distance from Manteca, CA. In an attempt to keep from wasting both out times and fuel, I suggest we come to an agreement after seeing each others cars, if possible, before arranging the transport.
Prices listed are primarily for the hardware/ sheetmetal as I did most of the labor myself. If you add the numbers you’ll come up with over $4000 and I did not include paid values on everything. That also does not include the car itself with clean paperwork, front fender assemblies, hood, etc…
What I’ve done to the car so far
I started with the suspension and then moved to sheet metal. You can see 93 pix of the work and the parts that come with it at this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/dignlif/sets/72157600545013707/
Please look at all these pictures and read the whole ad before asking questions.
---Rear Suspension
-8” Rear End Rebuilt - third member rebuilt ($250) with new bearings and 3.50 gears. 28 spline xles also have new bearings installed ($60). New brake hard lines, brake line splitter hose, and vent with filter to keep dust out
-New rear disk brake setup using NEW ’85 Mustang SVO rotors with NEW Cadillac El Dorado calipers ($120) which have parking break provision. Will provide part numbers for easy replacement and local parts house chain. Have two spare calipers for cores.
-NEW Grab-A-Track 4 1/2 leaf mid-eye springs ($290) from Mustangs Plus
-NEW shackles and bushings ($30).
-Grab-A-Track ($86) Rear sway bar – not installed
---Front Suspension
-Grab-A-Track 620 springs ($80) lowered by cutting one coil out
-NEW upper ($150) / lower ($80) control arms and spring perches ($38)
-NEW Granada style Disk brake setup from spindles out. ($525) Kit from CSRP (www.diskbrakeswap.com) Includes NEW spindles, rotors w/ bearings, calipers, pads, caliper mounts, dust shields, master cylinder, outer tierod ends, hoses
-Grab-A-Track Front swaybar ($90) 1” – I believe it’s NEW
-NEW inner tierod ends ($160) and NEW adjusting sleeves ($18)
-NEW Grab-A-Track Idler arm ($50)
-Griffin built to fit aluminum radiator with trans cooler in bottom tank for 67 Mustang– needs boiling out as it has been sitting awhile, has some repair work done on it.
---Sheetmetal and work done
-The cars shell (fenders/ hood/ doors/ trunk/ suspension removed) was blasted inside-out ($600) after I put the new floors in and then shot with a heavy primer sealer by a local shop. ($650)
-NEW Lower door hinge ($130) – both sides
-NEW floor pans ($100) on both sides installed
-NEW Firewall floor pan extensions ($60) installed
-NEW Convertible one piece seat pan ($100) modified to lower seats and installed for side to side rigidity – did it before they offered one specifically for coupe/ fastback
-Mini-tubbed to frame rails – NEW inner wheel houses ($86)wheel wells complete and solid but need to finish area connecting to trunk floor and inside floor and the interior seam – not pretty but solid – I planned to dynamat it all when complete
-Made subframe connectors from 2”x2” tubing
-Driverside rear quarter rear lower portion cut out and replaced with piece from a --NEW quarter panel skin($60) – Floor pan trunk dropoff ($15) also replaced for rust repair.
-Also have NEW passenger quarter panel skin ($60) to repair small area or you can replace the whole thing.
-NEW Rear Fender Aprons ($60) – these are the hood hinge panels between shock towers and firewall - replaced on both sides.
-NEW Outer Shock Tower Cover ($86) – both sides
-NEW hood hinges ($30)
-NEW upper and lower cowl pieces ($400) – not installed – mocked up and cleko’d – fresh air intakes sealed as I planned on using aftermarket A/C – heater combo. I also tacked in panels to seal up the outter cowl vents but they can easily be removed or if you like them, final welded.
-NEW trunk lid ($166)
-NEW battery tray ($10)
-Started Firewall fill – as mentioned above, I planned to use aftermarket A/C – heater unit and run lines outside of engine compartment
---Other stuff
-NEW DashesDirect Dash pad ($150) – blue
-16” ’94 Mustang chrome wheels ($200) - new center covers in a box ( – they need to be blased as there is corrosion I didn’t see on two of them when I bought them because the guy had them stacked. I used 4 NEW 1” spacers with studs ($125) to push the wheels out to the right location. I was actually considering blasting the wheels and then having them powder coated black. Currently have 225/60 and 245/60 tires one leaks down within a few days.
-Rebuilt windshield washer motor and NEW leather gaskets
-Set of small block V8 frame mounts
-Doors have working windows and rear
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