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Background info: I just swapped a dana 80 dually rear end out of a 1997 ram 3500 into my 93 Dodge D350 to replace the old Dana 70. THe old rear end had 12" drums, the new has 13" drums.
I put in new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, adjusters, all springs and hardware, and E brake cables. Bled the brakes and the pedal feels good.
Took it for a 120 mile drive last night, and after a while the brakes would vibrate/pulsate upon application of the pedal. I tried stopping with the parking brake to verify if it was the rear brakes doing the shaking, and it was.
When I got home, I pulled into the shop, and the drums were so hot I could smell them. I pulled the wheels and rotated the drums and felt or heard zero shoe to drum contact. I verified that the Ebake was fully releasing, and backed off the E brake cable adjustment, and backed off the brake adjusters about 1 turn each.
Drove it 15 miles to work this morning, and when I slowed down to get off the highway and turn into the parking lot, it shook. I felt the drums, and the left one was hot, the right one was cold.
Maybe I need to back off the adjuster a little more, but it seems strange that it is getting hot when there was no apparent shoe/drum contact in the shop, plus the adjuster backed off some from that point. The cool drum on the right side gives me hope.
Does anyone have any ideas of why this is happening, or had anything like that happen before? Could air in the brake line do that? If the wheel cylinder is a different size, could that have an effect? Is the fluid not returning to the master quick enough for some reason, causing the brakes to drag, but then be fully released by the time I get it jacked up?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, Joel
I put in new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, adjusters, all springs and hardware, and E brake cables. Bled the brakes and the pedal feels good.
Took it for a 120 mile drive last night, and after a while the brakes would vibrate/pulsate upon application of the pedal. I tried stopping with the parking brake to verify if it was the rear brakes doing the shaking, and it was.
When I got home, I pulled into the shop, and the drums were so hot I could smell them. I pulled the wheels and rotated the drums and felt or heard zero shoe to drum contact. I verified that the Ebake was fully releasing, and backed off the E brake cable adjustment, and backed off the brake adjusters about 1 turn each.
Drove it 15 miles to work this morning, and when I slowed down to get off the highway and turn into the parking lot, it shook. I felt the drums, and the left one was hot, the right one was cold.
Maybe I need to back off the adjuster a little more, but it seems strange that it is getting hot when there was no apparent shoe/drum contact in the shop, plus the adjuster backed off some from that point. The cool drum on the right side gives me hope.
Does anyone have any ideas of why this is happening, or had anything like that happen before? Could air in the brake line do that? If the wheel cylinder is a different size, could that have an effect? Is the fluid not returning to the master quick enough for some reason, causing the brakes to drag, but then be fully released by the time I get it jacked up?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, Joel
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