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  • electrical short

    so Ive been dealing with the frustrating problem of the wiring for my Converter lock up shorting out. The problem started last month out of the blue. turn the key, POP goes the fuse.

    I have all my accessories wired to an auxillary fuse block that runs off a keyed source. I have the Converter lock up wiring, tach, amp gauge and the choke on this fuse block. they all have their own fuse, which i had 25amp fuses in. none of the other fuses pop when I turn the key, just the Converter. I ran a new wire (16ga) from the plug to the fuse block even changed which terminal I was using. I also swapped out the vacuum switch for a spare I had and its still blowing the fuse.

    the last option I have is to swap out the plug/pigtail for a spare I have.

    any advice? im stumped at this point. all the connections are soldered and heat wrapped.


    oh, the transmission is a 700r4 automatic, in the 66 Bel Air.
    Last edited by Shelty; September 4, 2016, 03:45 PM.
    Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

    War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

  • #2
    what about wiring in a resistor just after the fuse block? if it cuts the current a little bit it may prevent shorting out.

    Idk whats causing it, I tried swapping back to the old plug/pigtail and it did the same thing.

    Unless the problem lies INSIDE the transmission wiring, its pulling way too much power which is popping the fuse. And it shouldnt demand too much power as its only activating a switch.


    some research brought me to this thread.... wondering now if the pressure switch is faulty and shorts out?



    granted I dont have a switch wired for my lock up. It has ground and power to the fuse block. I have the green wire for the switch taped up out of the way.

    guess Im calling TCI on tuesday. might need a new pressure switch. hope I have a spare one lying around.
    Last edited by Shelty; September 4, 2016, 03:53 PM.
    Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

    War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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    • #3
      The first think I would do is to measure the resistance at the transmission connector. It should be infinite, until you get into high gear then it should go to a small number of ohms (whatever the lockup solenoid resistance is).

      If it is indeed shorted inside the transmission, you might even be able to see the problem when you pull off the pan, it is probably a pinched wire, shorting to the case or valve body.

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      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • #4
        I ended up pulling the pan to swap the solenoid, and found that the wires where I soldered them when I modified the harness for the TCI stuff had a short. the heat shrink I used on the joint had basically deteriorated from the ATF and the wires shorted out on each other. they were stuck together. so once I fix that, I should be in the clear
        Hellinor- 2005 Mustang GT-Bolt ons, in need of a turbo

        War Wagon- 1966 Bel Air Wagon-355 Crate motor, 700r4, flies pretty good for a brick...

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