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  • #31
    So I was going to start a thread then I found one. Picking up where I left off 2 years ago. I don't remember fixing it. I think the light just went back out? Well it's on again time to buy a scanner or a app that reads brake codes. Anyone have a scanner they really like or an app that is known to read brake codes (doesn't have to be free)
    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

    PB 60' 1.49
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    • #32
      I've been waiting for someone to buy one of those knock-off Chinese computers. Whenever I have issues like you have, I take it to my friend who owns a mechanic shop. I cannot afford the 10k Snap-on wants for the computer and the 2k yearly, update bill that those computers require.

      That said, it's still cheaper then a chinese computer to have the code read at a shop - good shops won't require that you pay them to fix it... all of the other 'scanners' I know of only read engine and transmission codes... which doesn't help with brake codes.
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • #33
        Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
        I've been waiting for someone to buy one of those knock-off Chinese computers. Whenever I have issues like you have, I take it to my friend who owns a mechanic shop. I cannot afford the 10k Snap-on wants for the computer and the 2k yearly, update bill that those computers require.

        That said, it's still cheaper then a chinese computer to have the code read at a shop - good shops won't require that you pay them to fix it... all of the other 'scanners' I know of only read engine and transmission codes... which doesn't help with brake codes.
        well, you only need the 2K yearly updates if you keep buying new cars. We bought a Modis for 800, got it updated to the latest car which at that time was a 2009. We have not had to pull codes on the 2016 subaru yet.

        You can go to Autozone and just get the codes read. All the real expensive can do is make suggestions on things to try, and in all reality, if you get a P1523 code, you just google it and find 20 people who will tell you all about the repair they did..

        The Modis had an ABS bleed program we used on the 2003 trailblazer we rewired from the fire damage. It was pretty cool, cycling thru the system and hearing air bleed out. So I guess there is some cool stuff.

        So ebaying a modis or versus that has been updated to the last year you have or a little past it will probably get you a good find on something someone replaced.


        I was all over on that old post, all I did was pull the ABS fuse and the light stays on but I have no bouncy pedal anymore.
        Last edited by anotheridiot; July 15, 2020, 11:05 AM.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post

          well, you only need the 2K yearly updates if you keep buying new cars. We bought a Modis for 800, got it updated to the latest car which at that time was a 2009. We have not had to pull codes on the 2016 subaru yet.

          You can go to Autozone and just get the codes read. All the real expensive can do is make suggestions on things to try, and in all reality, if you get a P1523 code, you just google it and find 20 people who will tell you all about the repair they did..

          The Modis had an ABS bleed program we used on the 2003 trailblazer we rewired from the fire damage. It was pretty cool, cycling thru the system and hearing air bleed out. So I guess there is some cool stuff.

          So ebaying a modis or versus that has been updated to the last year you have or a little past it will probably get you a good find on something someone replaced.


          I was all over on that old post, all I did was pull the ABS fuse and the light stays on but I have no bouncy pedal anymore.
          you have to pull the 2 plugs from the ABS under the hood to get the light to go off - that's what keeps the cruise control from working (the light on the dash).... do ask me how I know...
          Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; July 15, 2020, 02:25 PM.
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • #35
            I don't want to spend 800 on a scanner. I was looking at the ones in the $200 range https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-3211

            There are several apps that claim to read them. I would buy one but I have never bought an app before.
            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

            PB 60' 1.49
            ​​​​​​

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            • #36
              I don't want to spend 800 on a scanner. I was looking at the ones in the $200 range https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-3211

              There are several apps that claim to read them. I would buy one but I have never bought an app before.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

              PB 60' 1.49
              ​​​​​​

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              • #37
                Hopefully this is the last. do you leave it off for the traditional above?

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Russell View Post
                  I don't want to spend 800 on a scanner. I was looking at the ones in the $200 range https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-3211

                  There are several apps that claim to read them. I would buy one but I have never bought an app before.
                  There is currently a solous on ebay to the 11.2 update for 274. would get to 2010 and 2011. Some of them can not be updated any farther, so you would get everything you need for that truck and 10 years after.. Then you get all the bells and whistles, tests, suggestions. The closest I can get to get to 2016 is 749. The biggest problem with the Modis is not being backlighted so its really hard to read if you are outside.

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                  • #39
                    So the on and off again brake light is currently off. The 2001 is now up to ~141k miles and runs terrible when you first fire it up in the morning. It seems the colder it is the worse it runs. Its missing, popping back in the intake, tries to stall. Once it warms up it runs fine the rest of the day. I changed the spark plugs it seems to be a little better but not really. two of the plugs had a little more carbon than the rest. I have a guess but am having trouble verifying. What do you think would cause this 2001 5.3 to run ruff on cold (cool for you Northern guys!) mornings?
                    http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                    1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                    PB 60' 1.49
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                    • #40
                      My 2bits......
                      Had this happen on a 90's Toyota Pickup.
                      There's was a small injector on the end of the intake plenum that was to be on for cold start.
                      It quit working, and wasn't spraying, it was squirting. Replace it, all better

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                      • #41
                        I don't think there is a ninth injector, not that I am aware of any way. Thanks for the idea!
                        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                        PB 60' 1.49
                        ​​​​​​

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                        • #42
                          cold start injectors were done away with in 1989 with GM. I know I have one on the 85 iroc 305 I got with a project. GM just got the regular injectors to work cold start.

                          Sounds like more of the intake air temp sensor or idle air control gummed up and not closing. Intake air temp is going to tell the computer to dump more fuel,.

                          But with every GM problem I have, I usually start by changing the coolant temperature sensor since that tells the computer more than any other ones, instead of leaving the ELECTRIC fan on or off, it dumps or takes away fuel to control the temperature. Its almost like they were trying to get the cars to run without a radiator fan.

                          Its always going to end up being too much fuel or too much air.

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                          • #43
                            I need to get a scan tool that will read all the sensors. My google foo was pointing towards leaking intake gaskets. The theory is when they're cold they leak when they warm up they expand enough to close the gap. I have tried spraying brake clean and starter fluid on the intake. It seems to better when I do that, but I don't get the engine revving up like I would expect.
                            http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                            1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                            PB 60' 1.49
                            ​​​​​​

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                            • #44
                              we are chasing emission gremlins, just happened to pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and found it full of fuel, so I guess that was acting like a cold injector. There are plenty of 20.00 code readers out there that you can just punch the code with your car in google or youtube and get all the answers. Scan tools give some suggestions and possibly perform tests before swapping parts, but you dont really need that.

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                                we are chasing emission gremlins, just happened to pull the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator and found it full of fuel, so I guess that was acting like a cold injector. There are plenty of 20.00 code readers out there that you can just punch the code with your car in google or youtube and get all the answers. Scan tools give some suggestions and possibly perform tests before swapping parts, but you dont really need that.
                                It's not throwing code. I was thinking live data so I can see what the IAC and CTS are reading.
                                http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                                1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                                PB 60' 1.49
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