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  • #46
    the $20 suggestion - several of them give you readings in real time. HP Tuners does as well, however, it's not a cheap option.
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

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    • #47
      Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post

      ...Sounds like more of the intake air temp sensor or idle air control gummed up and not closing. Intake air temp is going to tell the computer to dump more fuel,.

      .
      is where I would head... iac
      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Russell View Post

        It's not throwing code. I was thinking live data so I can see what the IAC and CTS are reading.
        pretty sure all you are able to read is voltage to the culprits. Our emissions tank vent shows voltage, but smoke leaves the vent when it is supposed to be closed. More of what I have seen is should be open or closed but is not, which means mechanical failure with the part. IAC is probably the easiest to take off, spray some carb cleaner on the "poppet?" a little on a q tip in the bore, but most times you can hear the air leaking thru when its running. They get so carboned up that the power is there but they do not move, almost like an EGR valve getting stuck halfway and constantly sucking exhaust gas into the mix instead of on or off. Never seen a carboned up stuck valve throw a code since the computer is telling it to move, The code comes when they short completely out.

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        • #49
          Before I changed the plugs I cleaned the TB and the plunger on the IAC. Cleaning didn't make any change. I pulled the IAC off again today the seat looked pretty clean I cleaned it a little more. I played with the torque app alittle more it gives real time sensor read out the IAC and the CTS were with in 3 degrees and the CTS started to rise while idling. I will crank it again in the morning I expect it to be ok but not great low is only 39* normally runs really bad when below 20*. We are going to Boone this weekend. I am going to put intake gaskets on it just in case.
          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

          PB 60' 1.49
          ​​​​​​

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Russell View Post
            Before I changed the plugs I cleaned the TB and the plunger on the IAC. Cleaning didn't make any change. I pulled the IAC off again today the seat looked pretty clean I cleaned it a little more. I played with the torque app alittle more it gives real time sensor read out the IAC and the CTS were with in 3 degrees and the CTS started to rise while idling. I will crank it again in the morning I expect it to be ok but not great low is only 39* normally runs really bad when below 20*. We are going to Boone this weekend. I am going to put intake gaskets on it just in case.
            did you change the throttle body gasket if you took it all apart or is it the rubber o ring type?

            There is a reset for those, dont know how universal it is. I remember them being on like a keyed shaft so it clicks out one step at a time, this was a reset I found.

            Step 1


            Remove the wing nut on top of the air cleaner and lift the air cleaner off the throttle body to access the vacuum lines. These are attached to the bottom of the air cleaner. Twist and pull the vacuum off of the bottom of the air cleaner and lay the air cleaner aside. Plug the vacuum lines with golf tees or other suitable item.
            Step 2


            Remove plug over the idle screw located on the right front of the throttle body by using a hammer to drive a punch into the plug and then using the punch to pry the plug out of the throttle body. Discard the plug. Start the engine and let it run until it warms up.
            Step 3


            Turn off the engine and leave the ignition key in the "Off" position. Unfold a paper clip and bend it into a "U" shape. Push the ends of the paper clip into the "A" and "B" terminals of the ALDL (Assembly Line Diagnostic Link) connector, also called the diagnostic connector. In GM vehicles that use this TBI injection, the connector is a black plastic rectangular connector located under the driver side of the dash. The "A" and "B" terminals are located on the top right of the connector.
            Step 4


            Unplug the IAC valve located on the passenger side, rear of the throttle body. Start the engine. Insert a T-30 size Torx driver into the Idle adjustment screw that is located behind the plug removed earlier. Turn the screw to adjust the idle speed to 650 RPM +/- 50 RPM.

            Turn off the engine and disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery using a wrench. Reconnect the IAC valve. Reinstall the air cleaner and remove the paper clip from the ALDL connector. Reconnect the battery terminal after 5 minutes and test drive the vehicle.

            Might be worth a try before tearing the intake off.

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            • #51
              I have not removed the TB, the IAC does have an O ring seal. This is a 5.3 "LS" I don't think any of that applies. The IAC is on the TB on the driver's side.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

              PB 60' 1.49
              ​​​​​​

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              • #52
                My mistake, I was under the impression the Vortec was the engine in the 2001 model year. Thought LS were only in corvettes until they finally made it into trucks in 2003. I have been looking for a beater to get a whole LS system and started my searches at 2003 because of that.

                There should be a reset procedure, they are geared and do not automatically reset.

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                • #53
                  LS motors showed up in the Vette I think in 1997,
                  ​ trucks started getting them in 1999. Tahoe in 2000 and vans in 2003

                  There were some improvement along the way, I have heard the first 6.0 had iron heads.
                  Last edited by Russell; February 9, 2021, 04:08 PM.
                  http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                  1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                  PB 60' 1.49
                  ​​​​​​

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by Russell View Post
                    LS motors showed up in the Vette I think in 1997,
                    ​ trucks started getting them in 1999. Tahoe in 2000 and vans in 2003

                    There were some improvement along the way, I have heard the first 6.0 had iron heads.
                    I have the 5.3 Vortec in the 2002 Avalanche, I thought that was their baby. My 2003 Van has the iron head LS, which was what convinced me to look for 03 or later. Figure we are just going to beat that one into submission to get the motor.

                    Either way, there is a reset to find the right spot on that rack.

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                    • #55
                      I went ahead and changed the intake gaskets, not sure if it fixed it or what. It running better but it only gotten to the low 30s it was running ruff when it got down low in the 20s.
                      ​​​
                      I do like the dry intake design of the LS!
                      Last edited by Russell; February 21, 2021, 03:42 PM.
                      http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                      1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                      PB 60' 1.49
                      ​​​​​​

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                      • #56
                        Reporting back in hopefully I found the problem. Fingers crossed for a victory! The brake light that was on all the time, went out for a while then came back, is currently off! Went to the junk yard, figured out how to remove the sensor. Very easy the back side is a clip push left and right side to the middle and it slides out. I don't understand how it reads the fluid level it does not come in contact with the fluid. It was a little dusty cleaned it out it back in and the light went out. I put the "new" one in just to say I changed it
                        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                        PB 60' 1.49
                        ​​​​​​

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                        • #57
                          I jinxed myself by typing the above post and didn't even hit post. The light came back on and Jennifer had enough. So the world's greatest SUV will be up for sale soon. A 2022 people mover has already taken residence. Best part is we paid for the 100k warranty so when it has issues I can say take it to the dealer and get a loaner. After that I think I am going to say trade it!

                          Who wants a bright red 2001 Chevy Suburban 2wd 150k miles? Runs and drives good, brake light is on.
                          Last edited by Russell; July 19, 2021, 03:41 AM.
                          http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                          1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                          PB 60' 1.49
                          ​​​​​​

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                          • #58
                            we found an anti lock brake bleeding program on our modis, hold the pedal down and it sounds like air brakes are going off on a semi. Maybe air down there. Worst part of giving up is thinking the next guy will find that simple solution.

                            At least you should have another one that lasts 20 until all gasoline vehicles are outlawed.

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                              we found an anti lock brake bleeding program on our modis, hold the pedal down and it sounds like air brakes are going off on a semi. Maybe air down there. Worst part of giving up is thinking the next guy will find that simple solution.

                              At least you should have another one that lasts 20 until all gasoline vehicles are outlawed.
                              I am convinced that it has something to do with the low fluid sensor. I pulled it out to take into the parts store to show the keyboard jockey what I wanted, and the light went out!!!!!! I am so tempted to just leave it unplugged. New sensor was $7.50, so it has a new sensor.

                              The sensor is dry I don't understand how it knows how much fluid is in there. Is there a float that has sunk? Would dirty fluid set the light?

                              The 2022 people mover will stay around as long as she wants it and there is no complaining about it and $$,$$$
                              Last edited by Russell; July 22, 2021, 12:05 PM.
                              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                              PB 60' 1.49
                              ​​​​​​

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                              • #60
                                it does not make sense, you wonder if there was leakage from it where they decided to press in a plug down in there somewhere and some patch in the program to just eliminate it.

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