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i have a graphite rope seal in the block right now but my machinist said that they are more prone to leak than the newer aftermarket stuff out there. what are you guys using. Im looking for no leaking in the long run. I went forged internals so i wouldnt have to open this block up for at least 10 years and to be able to run boost (Turbo More likely than a supercharger) lets here what you have to say gents.butlers only had one other option called Viton. is this the best out there?
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I have a viton in my big nasty Butler 467, don't know if it leaks right now or not. I have a method for doing the rope seals that works pretty well. Engines I built back in the 90s still don't leak from the rear main and they have lots of miles on them.
You need a couple razor blades and something to hold them. Usually the gasket kits come with an assortment, I got for the thicket one that will fit into the groove. After installing the main bearings, put the rope seal in the block first, use the crank to press it down. Sometimes i put the main caps on and tighten them, but not torque them. Just want to press the rope into the groove. There will be some rope sticking up on both sides, you want to pull the crank and but those off flush with the block surface. Not below, not above, but as flush as you can get it. For the main cap I roll the seal in with a big socket, pressing it in there rather hard. You want it to compress but still have some of the seal above the groove where it will contact the crank.Take your time and work it in there. Then cut it off flush with the cap, you can leave about .001" of the rope sticking up from the cap.. They want to fray on the ends, so use the razor from different directions across the mating surface of the block. Don't use silicone or any RTV on it. You do not want that stuff in the bearings. Make sure you have it flush and no strings hanging, and you can install the crank.
Doing it this way I get front seals leaking before rear mains. -
That’s exactly what I did. I put the graphite seal in and then was told later to use the Viton. I did use a bigger socket about half the size of the crank journal to press the seal in, do you just dry fit press the seal in? No oil on the seal? Nothin to make it stick to the block?Comment
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Nope I just put the rope seal in like I said and they don't leak for me.
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Copy that. I have another 12 inches of rope seal I might try again just to make sure. My next order of business is windage tray, I’ve got a stock one from a 68-69 400. I assume that’s fine for this build. I also need a valley pan which will probably be donated from a 75-76 grand prix at the local salvage yard. I plan on using an hei to light the spark. ARP headstuds, a pair of mickey Thompson tall valve covers, I’m sure there’s a few more things I’ll need.
Do you use stock alternator and water pumps on your hp builds? I have a q jet that I’m going to send to cliff to rebuild for E85. When I go to start assembling the short block I’ll figure out what else I needComment
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