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how the fuh to select shock absorber, rate issues...

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  • how the fuh to select shock absorber, rate issues...

    i've substantially lightened my car, especially the rear, and i'm trying to figure out how to go about selecting a shock for it. shock damping rate is very complex, and for OEM type shocks there's zero information as far as i can tell. and if course it's gotta fit, mount type and compressed/extended lengths.

    the "correct" shocks were crazy-stiff. so i selected one by making a list of all shocks in the available Monroe catalog (THANK YOU MONROE FOR MAKING CATALOG AVAILABLE ONLINE) with the right mounts and lengths, then googled each car application to determine curb weight, and picked the lightest car (toyota Starlet). these are much better than "correct" shocks. but they're still too stiff.

    i've read some (not a lot) of race shock info on QA1.net and other sources, but there's no clear way to determine damping needs, and i can't discern any way to put a number to damping. not that i could afford those fully configurable things anyhoo.

    how's anyone else solved this problem?

  • #2
    id say your on the right track--same style mounts/lightest smallest car listed.

    but really, how hard is it to fab some mounts? i mean i even made a cantilever
    style system for my trailer ( shocks would need to be 5" total to fit normally)
    so i could just use the leftover old stockers after i replaced em on my vette.

    it works like a dream. unloaded it rides like most 'normal' trailers do when
    they are loaded, and loaded its absolutely perfect.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
      id say your on the right track--same style mounts/lightest smallest car listed.

      but really, how hard is it to fab some mounts?
      but i'm *lazy*!

      mostly kidding. i mean, i'd rather find ones that fit of course, but yes, i can adapt things reasonably close. (in front, i had to fab a mount anyway, because this car used a totally unique lower eye, with a 1" hole -- literally one application).still, it's the selection process that's hard, though you are right, i overlooked too many by limiting myself to one mounting style. there's no criteria, or measurement-unit, for 'shock damping factor' (because it's not simple).

      ...cantilever... it works like a dream.
      not sure what you mean here? did you make a lever system to translate stroke? i considered such a thing for the rear where i have room -- replace the shock with a pushrod that enters the 'trunk' area, and put a shock on a lever where i can change the fulcrum. is that what you did?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by tomicdesu View Post

        not sure what you mean here? did you make a lever system to translate stroke? i considered such a thing for the rear where i have room -- replace the shock with a pushrod that enters the 'trunk' area, and put a shock on a lever where i can change the fulcrum. is that what you did?


        yep, VERY accurate/technical and to-correct-scale drawing below....

        Click image for larger version

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        • #5
          cool! your draftsmanship is BLINDING ME! lol

          seriously thanks though -- i will revisit that idea myself for the rear. i've got room above for a lever.

          up front, you jogged my brain loose -- i had to fab the lower A-arm mount, so i will look at moving the position towards/away from the arm pivot to change the leverage the arm has on the shock, effectively changing the rate. if i can't get all scientificalish with it, i can at least make it adjustable.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tomicdesu View Post
            i will look at moving the position towards/away from the arm pivot to change the leverage the arm has on the shock, effectively changing the rate. if i can't get all scientificalish with it, i can at least make it adjustable.


            yes, yes-- scientificalishly speaking, i *think* if you make the side that
            the shock is attached to say 3 inches long, and the side that the axle
            link attaches to 4 inches long, then you reduce the shocks effectiveness
            by 25%. or is that 33%...

            i dunno, ive been hit in the head a lot.

            and 3 inches on shock side/6 inches axle side cuts it by 50%, thus
            in THEORY making the shock feel "softer".

            opposite should hold true to, longer on shock side with shorter
            on axle side should make the shock move farther thereby making it feel
            "stiffer". (thats what she said! )

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            • #7
              we were probably hit with the same or similar stick as a child, as i find i agree with your conclusions.

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              • #8
                was that the "ugly stick"? or is that another issue altogether....

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