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Crown Vic Brake/ABS Woes?

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  • #1

    Crown Vic Brake/ABS Woes?

    I have a feeling I know what it is, but I'm going to run it by you enlightened and well seasoned individuals before I head to the U-Pull-It tomorrow.

    2000 Crown Vic - Brakes are soft at any speed but they do not fade. The car stops but the pedal goes down much lower than it should. When I apply the brakes I can feel the pedal pulsate as if the ABS is engaging. All the crown Vic forum regulars say it is the rotors. I say they are wrong, I measured the run out in multiple areas and they are within spec. Also, oddly enough I am not getting an ABS light even at speed. If I brake hard there is no flashing or anything. Also, all new pads at all 4 corners......by far the easiest brake pads in the world to change....anyway....

    My thoughts are that either the ABS module, wheel speed sensors or ABS sensors are going bad...or all fricken' three of them....

    Any of you fine gentlemen had any input on this.
    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
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  • #2
    I vote sensors, particularly the rears. Our full size van had great brakes when we got it, they got progressively mushier over the next decade. A hydro-boost flush and new rear sensors brought back the greatness.
    Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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    • #3
      I vote you sucked air into a line somehow.... you won't get an indicator. Keep in mind ABS requires a power bleeder to get the air back out (and the tool to turn it to the 'open' position during bleeding).
      Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; October 2, 2018, 08:10 AM.
      Doing it all wrong since 1966
      • Likes 2

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      • #4
        My TC has pulsating brake petal and I thought it was the rotors. I replaced the fronts it was smooth for a couple days then I warped them again. Someone said buy the cheap pads not the good ones? I need to find a place that will turn them for cheap if I carry them in.
        http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
        1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95
        PB 60' 1.49
        ​​​​​​

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Russell View Post
          My TC has pulsating brake petal and I thought it was the rotors. I replaced the fronts it was smooth for a couple days then I warped them again. Someone said buy the cheap pads not the good ones? I need to find a place that will turn them for cheap if I carry them in.
          I use cheap and expensive pads to balance braking systems. Works like a charm. Cheap is 'softer' and grips better. You even may remember the truck, the 83 Chevy truck I put disks on the back? yeah, cheap on the front so that I wasn't constantly sliding the tail through stoplights on unloaded, hard stops.
          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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          • #6
            Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
            You even may remember the truck, the 83 Chevy truck I put disks on the back?

            Oh that's just low.....lol.

            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by STINEY View Post


              Oh that's just low.....lol.
              should I mention I didn't put disk brakes on the back of the Suburban I just sold?
              Doing it all wrong since 1966

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              • #8
                What SBG said above about a power bleeder, or if you're feeling adventurous, reverse bleeding. ABS systems are a pain to bleed properly without a testbook or some similar method to cycle the ABS pump. I think I may have mentioned it before but for heavy vehicles like my Rovers I like to use the highest quality rotors I can afford (they seem to be made of a harder steel than OEM ones) and the cheapest (read softest) pads I can find. Pads are cheap and grippy is good. Granted it will generate heat faster, but booneying Rovers around in the hills I'm not exactly playing Speed-Racer or riding the brakes anyway.

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                • #9
                  Well, I ordered front AND rear ABS sensors for it. I got all 4 for the cost of 2 from *insert local chain here*. Rockauto to the rescue!

                  From the reading I did last night it sounds like they are not producing a true speed reading and causing the ABS system to activate whenever the hell it wants.

                  I'm not paying someone to hook it up to an ABS diagnostic to tell me which one, the cost of all 4 is still cheaper the the diagnosis fee.....

                  I ordered a set of rear rotors too, just because

                  slapped a new set on the front today, I went to get them turned but once on the lathe it would have put me too close for me to worry about.

                  The pedal is not soft any more, the car stops right the F now but, there is that god-blessed pulsation in the pedal.

                  There was an oil leak that has been annoying the hell out of me for months and figured since I'm off work for a few days I may as well tear into it. It was a quick 1/2 hr job, the lower radiator hose boss and the oil filter head are one unit, the gasket behind it was seeping...easy-peasy, no more leaky....

                  I'll update once the parts arrive and I get them on for those following along at home...
                  If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                  • #10
                    My previous TC would do the same thing. Troubleshooting step, pull the ABS fuse and see if it still pulses. This will cause the ABS light to come on. I am prepping for vacation and teaching also. When I get a second, I will look it up in the workshop manual for you and post what I can.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Admirall2 View Post
                      My previous TC would do the same thing. Troubleshooting step, pull the ABS fuse and see if it still pulses. This will cause the ABS light to come on. I am prepping for vacation and teaching also. When I get a second, I will look it up in the workshop manual for you and post what I can.
                      Thank you! I don't think it will be necessary

                      tho...I found the culprit!

                      If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                      • #12
                        I dont want to get all touchy feeley here, but I wonder if this is what I feel.

                        Brakes are mostly fine, but if you slow to an intersection, then come off the brake to creep into the intersection and stop again, that is when my pedal stays high and feels like it pulses. No ABS light ever. Last week it was raining and I got it up to 50 and slammed on the brakes, no ABS light, no skid,

                        Maybe its the same kind of problem.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                          I dont want to get all touchy feeley here, but I wonder if this is what I feel.

                          Brakes are mostly fine, but if you slow to an intersection, then come off the brake to creep into the intersection and stop again, that is when my pedal stays high and feels like it pulses. No ABS light ever. Last week it was raining and I got it up to 50 and slammed on the brakes, no ABS light, no skid,

                          Maybe its the same kind of problem.
                          I swapped that idler arm out and it fixed a lot of the braking issues. There is still a slight pulse but the pedal is nice and firm with newe front rotors and new pads at all 4 corners

                          ...I think that maybe one of the ABS sensors is losing its magnetic field giving the abs control mod a false reading. I have them on order and I will follow up with a result. Everything I've read says that the pulsation in the pedal is almost always linked to a bad wheel speed sensor. What you're describing sounds a little like what I am experiencing...stay tuned....
                          If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post

                            Thank you! I don't think it will be necessary

                            tho...I found the culprit!
                            Yikes! Glad you found that before it found you!

                            Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by STINEY View Post

                              Yikes! Glad you found that before it found you!
                              Right? It would have found my baby girl which would have been worse...but, her boyfriend drives it from time to time...and I really do not like him.....but, I am a better man than that! LOL!
                              If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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