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Crown Vic Brake/ABS Woes?

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Admirall2 View Post
    My previous TC would do the same thing. Troubleshooting step, pull the ABS fuse and see if it still pulses. This will cause the ABS light to come on. I am prepping for vacation and teaching also. When I get a second, I will look it up in the workshop manual for you and post what I can.
    Just wanted to thank you for this. Took the wife to her treatment, dropped her off at the house, pulled the ABS fuse. Pedal was fine going back to the shop. Left work, got in traffic, car stopped to make a left turn, I was able to stop, the girl behind me was able to stop, the rice burner behind her was not able to stop, he hit her, slammed her into me, but I was able to hold my brakes to keep from slamming into the person in front of me. If I did not pull the fuse, that was the condition that pedal would have stayed high, pulsed and rolled.

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    • #17
      ...I think that maybe one of the ABS sensors is losing its magnetic field giving the abs control mod a false reading. I have them on order and I will follow up with a result. Everything I've read says that the pulsation in the pedal is almost always linked to a bad wheel speed sensor. What you're describing sounds a little like what I am experiencing...stay tuned....
      Be warned the ABS sensors are a PITA in the front. Very tight fit. If the car spent any time in the rust belt, you can almost be assured the metallic portion of the sensor has rusted and caused the sensor to buldge right where it passes through the knuckle. Rear isn't as bad. The aforementioned Town Car took about 3 hours for the fronts vs about 45 minutes for the rear.

      Good catch on the idler arm.

      Tell me more on this Vic, is it a HPP car?

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Admirall2 View Post

        Be warned the ABS sensors are a PITA in the front. Very tight fit. If the car spent any time in the rust belt, you can almost be assured the metallic portion of the sensor has rusted and caused the sensor to buldge right where it passes through the knuckle. Rear isn't as bad. The aforementioned Town Car took about 3 hours for the fronts vs about 45 minutes for the rear.

        Good catch on the idler arm.

        Tell me more on this Vic, is it a HPP car?
        its an HHP, I got it cheap and it WAS a nice car. I gave it to my daughter and she trashed it. She wiped it out, smashed the rear axle on a curb and high centered it. That caused some issues. At one point the bags inflated and exploded. I found the arm that the sensor fixes to had snapped in half causing the pump to continue to inflate the bags. I swapped the bags for springs...at this point I am just trying to keep it patched together until the training/school she is going through. Hopefully then she'll be able to get something she likes. It is a desert car so working on this thing is a joy. No rust, not rot...parts come off and go on with ease.
        If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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        • #19
          Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
          . No rust, not rot...parts come off and go on with ease.
          Is this "ease" of which you speak available at retail? I'll take a case!



          Of all the paths you take in life - make sure a few of them are dirt.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by STINEY View Post

            Is this "ease" of which you speak available at retail? I'll take a case!


            Its available by the truck load, you just need to move out of the rust belt
            If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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            • #21
              Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post

              Its available by the truck load, you just need to move out of the rust belt
              Or have the truck import a rust free car. Then only drive it in good weather. Also might be good to get a climate controlled garage to store it in.
              http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
              1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

              PB 60' 1.49
              ​​​​​​

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              • #22
                Originally posted by JOES66FURY View Post
                I have a feeling I know what it is, but I'm going to run it by you enlightened and well seasoned individuals before I head to the U-Pull-It tomorrow.

                2000 Crown Vic - Brakes are soft at any speed but they do not fade. The car stops but the pedal goes down much lower than it should. When I apply the brakes I can feel the pedal pulsate as if the ABS is engaging. All the crown Vic forum regulars say it is the rotors. I say they are wrong, I measured the run out in multiple areas and they are within spec. Also, oddly enough I am not getting an ABS light even at speed. If I brake hard there is no flashing or anything. Also, all new pads at all 4 corners......by far the easiest brake pads in the world to change....anyway....

                My thoughts are that either the ABS module, wheel speed sensors or ABS sensors are going bad...or all fricken' three of them....

                Any of you fine gentlemen had any input on this.
                WE chased a problem like this for a customer with a crown Vic and found that he had installed a different size tires on the rear than on the front.





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