Welder - Hobart Handler 140

[JOES66FURY]

Anyone use this welder?

I have saved up enough to pick up a replacement for my DOA Century mig.

I've reviewed many entry level welders and this one keeps coming in as one of the best but I'd like to hear from someone who is familiar with the unit.

Rated Output at 20% Duty Cycle:	90A @ 18.5 VDC/63 A @ 21 VDC
Current Range:	25 - 140 Amps
Max Open-Circuit Voltage:	28 Volts
Wire Feed Speed Range with load:	40 - 700 Inches per Minute
Wire Feed Speed Range w/o load:	50 - 740 Inches per Minute
Amps Input @ 115V:	20 (15 is CSA rating)
Rated Load, 60 KVA:	2.9 (2.2 is CSA rating)
Hertz KW:	2.5 (1.77 is CSA rating)

[anotheridiot]

I have the 175 we barely use anymore. Not getting really good penetration anymore, but when you get so used to looking at tig welds nothing ever seems good enough.

[DanStokes]

I don't know that Hobart - probably is a fine unit. I can say that I'm pleased with my 175 amp Eastwood and (obviously) it has more power than the Hobart. No clue on the price difference. The Eastwood turns down far enough to do sheet metal with no issues. I'm guessing both are Chinese though I'm not sure on the Hobart. Just another option.

Dan

[SuperBuickGuy]

Hobart is part of Miller welding now. They're a good machine.

[DanStokes]

I did a little surfing and found that the Hobart is made in Troy, Ohio though some of the guts are sourced offshore. But isn't everything?

Dan

[Loren]

I have a Hobart 135, similar-looking machine anyhow, using a small gas bottle. Haven't used it much but it works decent enough for automotive sheet metal and subframes, I was kinda impressed actually. I'm glad I have it for when the big machine is impractical. Only thing is, forget about doing a good weld on 1/4" steel like they claim for it, I'd call 14 gauge the practical limit, and use .030" max wire - it can't handle thicker. I'd also maybe make sure the circuit it's running on has like 12-3 wiring or if not, check to see if anything's getting hot during use.

[anotheridiot]

When I bought the hobart, probably 2003, it was already being made by Miller. The 175 was what was needed for 1/4" steel we were fabbing tanks and a clarifier that I bought it for.

I have always had best luck using flux core wire tried to reverse the electrode and ground and go with solid but can never get that to work.

[JOES66FURY]

Although I am just doing sheet metal and small metal tubing now I'd really like the option of welding 1/4 or more at some point....

I don't have 210v in the garage but the circuit breaker panel is on it's outside wall so running a 210 outlet would not be terrible difficult.

Maybe I'll reconsider and save a little longer for a 210 machine....

Thanks for the input gents...

[SuperBuickGuy]

soon I'll be replacing my Miller 170 with a Miller Multimatic 220... if you're still in the market, maybe we can talk. The Hobart is a good machine, but a 220v machine is always going to be better. In my old house, I ran an extension cord from the dryer to the garage (it was on the garage wall, opposite side) to get 220v.... $50 and problem solved.

To help you look - machines I trust: Miller (and Hobart because they are the same company - okay, owned by the same company)
Machines I'd buy: Esab, some Lincolns

Anymore, I get people buy the knockoffs and small companies - but to me it's truly a crap shoot. If you understand that, great, but wouldn't it be a pisser if you spent $900 on a knockoff and it failed (with no parts availability) when a trusted-brand is $1200?

One other things - don't get distracted by features. A surplus welder from Government Surplus may not have all the fancy features and could be an older style (meaning, not inverter) but for the money you save - are totally worth it. My older machine - the Economaster - built in the 70s, still is worth about what it sold for new ($450).... add a spool gun to it, and you have a heavy-duty machine that will weld forever and is impervious to everything including nuclear war (it has no circuit boards), and it welds aluminum....

[JOES66FURY]

Features I want....the ability to control heat and wire speed like my old machine...otherwise...that is it.

I was at the store today looking at stuff to run a 220 outlet. because of the location of my breaker box I should be able to run 220 out there for less than $100. Which is good to know because sometime soon I'd like to upgrade the compressor to something that can run an air tool for more than 5 min.

I look at the local ads for used items but everyone wants retail for their used items out here. I can't seem to find a fair deal to save my life. I agree about gambling on cheap equipment. I've considered a knockoff but after reading reviews of others who got burned with sub-par equipment, I think I'll not skimp out for a change,

If I decide to wait I'll let you know. I've used a couple different Millers in the past and they are sweet little machines.

[Loren]

Hey you're making some bucks, get a good machine that will last you for the rest of time and be done with it. Family's gotta understand.

My two cents.

[Huskinhano]

I have a lincoln 120 volt, 140 amp welder set up for flux core since the only time I use it is outdoors. It does pretty well. I have a HTP 120 vlt, 140 amp at home and that works great. I would assume the Hobart would work very well. I wouldn't worry about it. One word of cation, speaking as a electrician. Running at 120 volt vs 240 volts means the 120 volt is going to be a lot more effected by voltage drop on the circuit. For the same wattage, a circuit running at 240 volt at half the amps then running on 120 volts means you can run the circuit 4 times the distance before voltage drop becomes a problem then on the 120 volt. I would run a dedicated circuit with at least #12 wire and better yet, #10

[rightpedal]

He is right. I notice a substantial difference between 14 gauge 15 amp circuit and a short run 12 gauge 20 amp circuit when I'm welding 1/8 and up. I have owned a Lincoln sp125 plus for 20 years and not a lick of trouble. My old shop mate has a eastwood 175 that is 13 years old and really is a nice machine to work with. The dual voltage input 120/240 is really convenient when he has to transport out of the shop. The only trouble has been a trigger switch a couple of years ago. He just replaced the whole handle and lead with a bernard I think. For the price it checks a lot of boxes.

Steve

[oletrux4evr]

Hey you're making some bucks, get a good machine that will last you for the rest of time and be done with it. Family's gotta understand.

My two cents.

I agree. Never skimp on tool quality. It will cost you in the long run if you do. But you know that..........

[Loren]

See Joe, Ed and I are ganging up on you. You know we mean well, and...we'll do everything except help you pay for it...