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Cutting holes in automotive safety glass

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  • #16
    I would not mess with tempered glass, it is too temperamental. Laminated glass is still safety glass and much more forgiving. You may have to cut both sides of the glass until you hit the plastic laminate and then use a heat gun to soften the plastic and push the slug through. I used to use kerosene and set it on fire but for this I would recommend because the kerosene is too unpredictable...

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    • #17
      Eric: Your sig doesn't show a location, but this guy can make whatever you want, and ship it anywhere............he can cut it to size, put the holes in, then temper it (I would leave those holes oversize, because as mentioned, and chassis flex will leave you having a glass bath otherwise.)

      https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ldwide.614524/

      **Have you thought about what happens once you weld the roll bar tubes in, then something happens later?? Then what?
      Impossible to replace the glass at that point without cutting & welding. Which is why folks have been trying to steer you to Lexan.

      If meeting a set of rules is not part of the program, you could use these....but not sure they will work, as they need some "wiggle room" to get them positioned to bolt up.......

      https://camburg.com/shop/fabrication...t-tube-clamps/







      James
      Last edited by Tubbed Pacecar; December 10, 2018, 10:24 PM.

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      • #18
        or just use a "in cab" cage and a bed mounted roll bar ala 1980s street monster truck.....

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        • #19
          Tempered glass can go kablooey from the slightest insult--that's the principle behind prince rupert's drops.

          Laminated would be a much better idea. But if you're trying to be period correct from that era and using glass, do what they'd have done: They'd have gotten a smaller piece made and filled in the bits where the bars go through with sheetmetal.

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