Muncie 4 speed rebuild kit

[squirrel]

a picture, great!

What exactly are we looking at here? Are you wondering what the big 1" hex thing is, on the cover? It's the TCS switch, it tells the emissions control system you're in high gear.

The different nuts holding on the side covers...well, who knows? maybe the threads are wonky, or maybe that's what hardware someone had laying around.

[anotheridiot]

a picture, great!

What exactly are we looking at here? Are you wondering what the big 1" hex thing is, on the cover? It's the TCS switch, it tells the emissions control system you're in high gear.

The different nuts holding on the side covers...well, who knows? maybe the threads are wonky, or maybe that's what hardware someone had laying around.

yeah, that. It is going to take some effort to get that lever to move, more than I can give it by hand.

So at earliest trying to figure out what style of muncie this is, its something later model that came with emissions, So 68 earliest, probably a 70 something.

[squirrel]

look for all the stamped numbers, and cast numbers, and post them or take pictures.

Pretty sure TCS was used from 70-72ish model years.

[dieselhead]

The Muncie 4spd has part numbers all over it so you should be able to figure get a pretty good idea which transmission that is. There's a part number on the side cover and there should be a metal tag under the right bottom side cover bolt. The side cover part number is probably 3884685 which is a cover with shift lever studs (probably '68 or earlier). I have no idea what the bolt below the shift lever is for but I suggest you pull the side cover and spin all the gears around to check for damage.

[Deaf Bob]

that was what I was thinking, just seemed like alot of work to do to lock out third. Was third always engaged when you ran first and second?

No, by nature of the tranny is move one lever, 1-N-2.. Then. N on that, move to other lever for 3-N-4.. You can engage a forward gear and R to lock it.. Will not move at all.. . So 3rd lever needs to be in N to run 1 & 2.

[anotheridiot]

Case number 3851325 reads from a 64 or 65 and the little date code was before they added the year number. Did not know they had any emissions back then.

P169496 is the only number on it, stamped opposite side, no tag on the side cover bolt like my other muncie.



That muncie has a 3885010 case with a 3952659WB tag. That was the original one I got a kit for that has the 1" countershaft

I know its hard to take a tag for what its worth anyway, since they are so easy to change, so I am guessing it will be counting teeth to figure out the ratios.

[squirrel]

you can look for grooves on the input shaft, and also count turns of the input and output shaft to figure ratios, as well.

The side cover could have been changed

These things are 50ish years old now, hard to believe.

[anotheridiot]

Got the oil pan changed, the bearings were pretty ugly, got those changed. One clevite damaged in shipping so I had to get another set of Kings from the one shop around here that had bearings, but able to get the narrowed with more clearance. got magnum rockers from comp cams and got them adjusted, motor back in, sweet lakewood SFI bellhousing I got with the trans for 600, (no longer SFI since we powdercoated it) new flywheel, pressure plate, clutch, did not forget the pilot bushing, so far we probably could have had it done but all the should do stuff that we would kick ourselves for not doing is done, but no chasing rabbits tomorrow yet..

Sad it was only looking at 300 in parts for the conversion, but that went a little nuts on the stuff we should be doing. The KBS coating looks pretty good on the headers, I hope it lasts.

Making a three piece cross member now, so we will have simple access to pull the trans. Probably never will have to again. Need to mock something up so we can see how straight it is and be able to get the car down from the lift so we can start hacking the floor for the shifter and add that left pedal.

Hopefully in a few days we will be able to report on if the trans works.

[anotheridiot]

well, it took a ton of tuning with the sniper system to be able to leave in first gear with the new setup. How many mistakes I made on this one. Could have stuck with a 153 tooth flywheel, instead needed to buy a new starter. Ruined the summit driveshaft kit, then put the grease fitting on the back u joint against the pinion and got that stuck.Did not check the clevites from rock auto and saw those damaged in shipping during installation.Got a real oil dipstick that blew out and wrecked the header coating. Ended up milling the valve covers AFTER we welded in AN fittings (and recleared them) so we stop pushing out the rubber fittings because the leak did not stop. Started the motor, ended up having antifreeze leaking out of the front two water fittings, yes, more got in and had to take that off after just dealing with the bottom end. Got a 10-30 oil change thru a 5 minute startup, dumped that, added 20-50 ran for 15 minutes, dumped that, back to good stp 20-50 with treatment to hopefully save all that bearing work. Hurst indy close ratio shifter still having trouble finding reverse all the time. The absolute best think I did was weld a tab on the trans bracket with the reverse light switch that is the only thing that has been flawless. Now found the OER real camaro shifter so I bet that ends up needing to be changed.
We have been questioning this motor for a really long time, but now removing that hydraulic brake with a mind of its own between the motor and the rear tires, the power was always there. At least we did this "low" dollar deal instead of finding a 5 or 6 speed, but I feel that might be coming down the road. Definitely putting the muncie back in the chevelle.