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Powder Coating Leaf Springs

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  • Powder Coating Leaf Springs

    OK, so I know we have at least one expert on powder coating and several others with mounds of experience.

    Is it a mistake to disassemble leaf springs and powder coat each leaf individually?
    IF SO, is it that build up between the leafs or the temperature of the oven and the potential annealing of the spring itself that is the issue?
    Last edited by cstmwgn; January 4, 2019, 04:35 PM.

  • #2
    here's a good article Allen....
    Patrick & Tammy
    - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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    • #3
      Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
      Thanks Patrick - I found that article earlier today AFTER I had dropped of my disassembled springs at the powdercoater! As with most stuff on the internet, you can also find articles that state while the cure temperature of the powder coat may be above 350, the metal itself isn't that hot for an extended period of time. I don't have a clue other than I suspect I am going to have some pretty springs that might be less than useful.


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      • #4
        If I recall, I read an article that stated you could reassemble the leaves with thin teflon strips they will act like Posies super slide leaves....
        Patrick & Tammy
        - Long Haulin' 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014...Addicting isn't it...??

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        • #5
          Originally posted by silver_bullet View Post
          If I recall, I read an article that stated you could reassemble the leaves with thin teflon strips they will act like Posies super slide leaves....
          Yeah - I read that too. In fact the guy from Eaton that did that earlier article also stated that unless the liners were made out of Delrin(sp) that they would not last.
          One step forward - two steps back do the hoochie choocie and turn yourself around!

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          • #6
            Not sure what kinda material, but when I had the rear differential/suspension out of the Vette the springs had some kind of strip that cradled each spring. Someone had been in there sometime in the past but it looked factory
            Pt 2010, Long Haul 2011,12,13,14,15,16,17, 18, 19, 23
            If you wait, all that happens is that you get older

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            • #7
              Thanks for all the input.

              I got an answer from the powdercoater that while their ovens do run 400* that the parts are only in about 30 minutes so the spring temp won't get hot enough to lose their temper (I sure don't want pissed off springs!). I am going to call Eaton on Monday to see if they sell Delrin liners.

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              • #8
                There are lower temperature cure powders that you can use. Most of the TGIC polyesters can be baked down to 336 for longer time. To properly cure powder, the metal temperature has to be the cure temperature (usually 400 degrees) for 10-12 minutes. Parts are in the oven for a half hour to an hour to get the metal tamp that hot. Think of a turkey on thanksgiving in the oven for 6 hours.just to get it to 165 degrees.

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                • #9
                  I always wondered. At which point is my thinking wrong here:

                  Leaf springs are steel with a fair amount of carbon in it (i.e., not mild steel).
                  They move/flex/bend.
                  They like to rust a bit.

                  Couldn't you use a cold blue solution on them (selenium dioxide or whatever it is) and then lightly oil them? It'd prevent rust to a reasonable degree and be easy to touch up compared to paint or another coating along those lines.

                  Or would this be a giant pain in the backside and not remotely worth the effort? I don't do much with steel of any sort, stainless if anything (I'm a bike guy, everything's aluminum!)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                    There are lower temperature cure powders that you can use. Most of the TGIC polyesters can be baked down to 336 for longer time. To properly cure powder, the metal temperature has to be the cure temperature (usually 400 degrees) for 10-12 minutes. Parts are in the oven for a half hour to an hour to get the metal tamp that hot. Think of a turkey on thanksgiving in the oven for 6 hours.just to get it to 165 degrees.
                    I was hoping you would see this - so IF in fact he only puts the leafs in for 30 minutes and they don't actually get over 350 degrees - does that mean that the powder isn't properly adhered so it will fail sooner or chip easier or ????
                    Last edited by cstmwgn; January 5, 2019, 08:26 AM.

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                    • #11
                      I read the write-up from Eaton Detroit on the temp of powder coating Annealing springs, and I'm not convinced that temp will be an issue.

                      I dug up some info on ONE alloy used for leaf springs (AISI 5160 alloy steel)

                      **keep in mind, there are many alloys, and their characteristics will vary some. But once you read the temps, you will see that they are waaaay above the temps for powdercoating...

                      AISI 5160 alloy steel

                      Alloy steels are designated by AISI four-digit numbers. They are more responsive to heat and mechanical treatments than carbon steels. They comprise various types of steels having compositions which exceed the limitations of Va, Cr, Si, Ni, Mo, C and B in the carbon steels.


                      Below are a couple excerpts from the link above:

                      Annealing

                      AISI 5160 alloy steel is annealed at 788°C (1450°F) and then air cooled.


                      Heat Treatment

                      AISI 5160 alloy steel is generally hardened using oil. This steel is quenched at 829°C (1525°F) and tempered at temperatures ranging from 427 and 704°C (800 and 1300°F).


                      So, read the temps required , and make up your own mind.......
                      Last edited by Tubbed Pacecar; January 5, 2019, 09:35 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by cstmwgn View Post

                        I was hoping you would see this - so IF in fact he only puts the leafs in for 30 minutes and they don't actually get over 350 degrees - does that mean that the powder isn't properly adhered so it will fail sooner or chip easier or ????
                        Right, if you do not get the metal to the cure temperature, its going to chip easily. For the most part we will prefer to overbake the parts to make sure the metal gets to temp. Overbaking causes chipping, but I am not talking about baking at 500 degrees for 5 minutes, I am talking 30 minutes at 350 or 392, whatever is recommended. I dont think leaf springs would get to 350 for 10 minutes if they are not in for at least 45 minutes.

                        Alot has to do with the oven he is using, infrared gets the metal hotter faster, where conventional takes alot longer. You basically can use a laser temp gauge, check the steel temp and then start your counting of 10 minutes. To me the harder part is cleaning that steel, the black oxide that is oiled to prevent rust that is on stock springs is not a happy start for me. So if you ran springs daily, you would have the time figured out with the first load and just keep doing that.

                        As far as annealing, that is taking the material to glowing and letting it cool, not 400 degrees.

                        Lets use a different example. Alot of what we do for the military are castings. Aluminum castings. We have to mask with steel screws because threads deform. Aluminum melts at 1221 degrees f, you bake it at 33% of that temperature, you are changing its shape when the part expands in the heat and contracts again. So the steel screws control the contraction part.. Steel melts at 2500 degees, so you are taking that to 16%, not getting anywhere near destabilizing the steel.
                        Last edited by anotheridiot; January 8, 2019, 07:21 AM.

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