Air shocks require higher pressure for a given lift because the air bellows(surface area) is smaller. Ride is harsher. Bags last fine as long as they don't go flat or get pinched/punctured.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
actually, I agree with your prior point about air shocks - there is no comparison between the two.
were I to need something that maintained height, no matter the load, I'd use air bumps (a misnomer because they're filled with nitrogen).
and as far as that goes, I'd completely remove the spring if I went with air ride.... still have to consider heat - and that real estate is precious space over the rear axle.My hobby is needing a hobby.
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Originally posted by RockJustRock View Post
Again I say that ONLY if you have coils. Air Lift made bags with their own coils for leaf spring cars and it was a mess.
Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I'm going to bring up Buinicorn - which is a 1964 Buick Skylark wagon and a soon-project. I'm going to strong arm kit the rear and run coil overs, then quick-steer (GNX) box, and B-body spindle the front.... I have air for it, but honestly, I prefer the simplicity of steel. Of course, I'll run a 9" rear instead of the 12 bolt - but ultimately, it's what works for meLast edited by SuperBuickGuy; February 27, 2019, 06:04 PM.Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Should be, '67 was the last year of the early style. But...my experience is w/ Chevys and I remember Pontiac advertising the "wide-track" thing all the time, so measure yours and the CL one, somehow! The difference if it were a Chev would be a little under two inches total.
Also, high-two's makes for nice freeway driving but will be a little sluggish off the stoplights. Your call....
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Originally posted by pontiacpower View PostCouldn’t be a chev.if I’m right gm didn’t start putting corporate rears in the bop cars until 1971. What’s semi floating? Heard of it but don’t know what it means. I’m cool with the 2.80 or whatever gears cause I have a low end torque motor. Got street machine is what I’m buildingDoing it all wrong since 1966
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Keeping my wheels attached to the vehicle would be ideal. I don’t like suprises in that sense. I know that’s the big benefit over the corporate rear. Is a bop 10 bolt good for me though?
I like keeping things Pontiac or at least bop
this car will see the track maybe once..... twice maybe
i daily drive it in the summer
plan on a 6 speed tremec somewhere in the future
need a posi that will hold up to a minimum of 600 hp/tq
im not going to use the “budget friendly” term but I would say that I’d like to use an efficient way to achieve this
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Well, if you are going 6 speed tremec that probably means redoing the hump in the floor so nothing is going to be cheap. At that point you might end up going with tubs to get your clearance and need an even shorter rear end.. We are currently on the path of taking about 2 inches per side out of a 12 bolt to get the tires closer to the inners and right under the pinch weld of the quarters, heavy springs and air shocks even if we need to machine some spacers.
Maybe your answer is just ditching those lowering springs and go back to stock since you dont like this current "politically correct" low look and have been talked out of air shocks..
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Originally posted by pontiacpower View PostKeeping my wheels attached to the vehicle would be ideal. I don’t like suprises in that sense. I know that’s the big benefit over the corporate rear. Is a bop 10 bolt good for me though?
I like keeping things Pontiac or at least bop
this car will see the track maybe once..... twice maybe
i daily drive it in the summer
plan on a 6 speed tremec somewhere in the future
need a posi that will hold up to a minimum of 600 hp/tq
im not going to use the “budget friendly” term but I would say that I’d like to use an efficient way to achieve this
they certainly wouldn't be budget-friendly to modify, but at this point, custom axles aren't that expensive and I bet there are some folks out there who have built them. This isn't a guess - the 64 wagon I have came with a wheel studded, 4.10, posi BOP rear... point is, the parts are out there, the biggest issue I can think of is I don't think you can get a true posi, when I was looking (this by memory, and 15 years ago), Auburn was the only folks who made a limited slip for it.
In any case, they are stronger then the 8.5/8.6 and less likely to lose a wheel.
As for driving, I know people who could break rocks in a sandbox, and yet others that make the jankiest stuff live (i.e. Dana 30 with 35" tires).Doing it all wrong since 1966
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I bought those wheels and tires last May so I’d hate to get rid of them. I like the wheels and they were the only size I could get them because it wasn’t a common muscle car wheel. The only part of this build that was really thought out was the engine. I should have blueprinted this entire build better but I just kind of started fixing things and modding as I went along.....
body roll? Hotchkis suspension
cool factor.....400 stroker
brakes suck? Discs up front
bad stance. Massive tires out back
out of money haha
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