Before the pump is changed I´ll investigate the one that comes off.
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Well, we finally pulled the motor, got the pan off, the pickup was loaded with silicone garbage from the 2 head removals, (leaky studs, one massive rich carbon buildup when the plugs were too short) 4 intake swaps, 2 cam and lifter swaps, (one only lifters that trashed the cam since they did not harden together). Always put rags down, scraped, used only sillycone on the end gaskets and once trying to loosen and seal the pan. The bearings were flat white, lots of short oiling.
Last bit of learning from my mistake, pull a few caps and check those bearings.
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Removed the pump and rear main cap, I took the pump apart and could'nt anything wrong.
The oil passage from pump to filter is clear.
I did find a gasket between the filter adapter and block usually there is'nt a gasket there......
After removing the oil pan should I prime the pump using an electric drill ?
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Probably be ok as you already have oil in the motor's passageways.. BUT I always reprime.. Get laughed at.. Better safe than sorry
Why the holes in your flex plate.. I see many with metal added (400 sbc and 454, as well as Olds) but never seen holes like that.. Balanced system?
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So where was that plug you were looking for? When we changed the oil pump just to be safe again, especially after seeing some ugly bearings, I always wonder why there is not a gasket between the pump and the main cap. I guess that adapter might be the same but you know something was wrong.Last edited by anotheridiot; April 22, 2019, 05:50 AM.
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Sorted......after digging around in the motor.....twice, the problem was a blocked up cooler.
BM advise to mount cooler on it´s side or inlet/outlet at top, which is how mine was mounted.
I recommend side mounting only, I think inlet/outlet on top does not move the oil in the lower cooler.
Also the inlet to the cooler should be at the bottom to push the oil and any air through.
My "desired" oil temp of 180 was far to low, contaminants need to be burned off and oil recently purchased
recommended a temp of 212,
So I replaced the oil cooler with a smaller one, and went with -8 lines rather than -6.
So far I´m seeing higher oil temps, 215 but not 250.
Reminder......start on the outside, easy accessible parts, and work your way in.
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Originally posted by malc View PostThe adapter is new, the bypass functions.
The bypass is for when the filter is blocked.
The oil is not getting there, to the filter that is.
Even if the bypass is blocked intentionally or unintentionally there should be oil.
It is not a bypass, just look at the size of it, it could never pass the amount of oil the engine is using.
It is just a pressure relief valve because sometimes the oil filter can balloon under oil pump pressures.
Last edited by malc; May 17, 2019, 09:18 AM.
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