94 suburban axle yoke

[Dan Barlow]

So, it seems that the tabs that hold the u joint in place on my axle yoke have deteriorated to the point that it wont hold the driveshaft centered in it .Is this a fairly easy replacement ? Any special tools needed besides a big socket and enough leverage to turn it ?

[squirrel]

That, and setting the bearing preload when you tighten it back up...with a new crush sleeve....

[Dan Barlow]

14 bolt cover , 9.5 ring gear . answer the same ?

[squirrel]

If it's a 9.5" then you have to remove the axles and carrier to get the pinion out and replace the crush sleeve. If it's the 10.5" you can remove the pinion support and do it on the work bench, fortunately. Like a 9" ford.

Some guys just don't worry about pinion bearing preload...maybe it'll be fine if you just torque the nut down. I've never been that brave.

[Dan Barlow]

Thanks

[SuperBuickGuy]

ummmm.... squirrel told you the right way.

however,

there is another way... buy new yoke, put on with the same pre-load, or, as we red-necks like to say - with the same number of turns on the nut.

yokes are made to tolerance, and while certainly there is a bit of variation, in the end of the day close counts - especially given there is some wear-in that happens so you'll never, ever get it back to the same place..... also, it's a 14 bolt, you can unbolt the front cover and pull the pinion out the front.... if you're terribly concerned, you don't have to take the entire differential apart.

[squirrel]

Just beware that if there is any wear on the ends of the crush sleeve, you won't get that nut as tight as it needs to be, when the preload is what it needs to be.

I haven't played with those rears, so I don't know how prone they are to wearing the crush sleeve. I have played with a bunch of other crush sleeve type rear ends in smaller trucks and cars, and every one of them needed a new crush sleeve to set the preload correctly, while having sufficient torque on the nut.

[SuperBuickGuy]

As I said, the right way and the redneck way


and to be sure, this isn't something that I haven't already done several times with perfect results. And to be sure, a smidge too tight is better then a smidge too loose.

[squirrel]

too many negatives there for me to parse--are you saying it works fine?

I expect a dab of loctite would also be a good idea.

If you check the torque on the nut before removing the nut, then you'll get an idea of what shape the crush sleeve is in.

[Russell]

I have never done it myself i have always used a new crush sleeve when messing with the 8.8

I have heard you can count the threads and put it back together. What ever you end up doing I would include a new pinion seal.

[Deaf Bob]

I have put together many rears reusing the crush sleeve..
A couple times I added a very thin shim to get it where needed torquewise.
Crush sleeves do not like being crushed...
Whichever way you go, recheck after 500-1000 miles.

If it was me doing this to mine, I'd replace the yoke and seal and bolt it back together. Might need to tighten a wee smidge after miles on it ..

It is hard to get the inch# freewheeling torque setting.

[Dan Barlow]

I spent most of a personal day ( truck being down ) to find another yoke a pull a part . Seems I have the only 14 bolt 6 lug underneath a half ton suburban . ( I don't this is really true but I couldn't find another one ) I couldn't even find a 3/4 ton Suburban ( which probably would have had one . I did find an old 3/4 ton chevy van but I could not get enough room to get enough leverage to get it off . So now It'll have to sit till wed while I wait for a new one to come at $80 bucks instead of $15 . Mine wasn't really on that tight . I got it of with a 1 1/4 inch socket on a 1/2 inch drive craftsman breaker bar . Jim I really appreciate you telling me the right way . SBG I really appreciate you telling me the way I resigned myself to doing it after watching some guy from Chicago do it on youtube would probably work . Bob and Russell thanks for your experiences as well . I'll let you all know how it goes .

[SuperBuickGuy]

either way you do it, remember to have a puller to get the yoke off. It shouldn't come off hard, but all the ones I've done never got that memo....

[Russell]

I have never needed a puller for the flange on an 8.8, but totally different axle. I do like my inch pound beam torque wrench. I got it off Amazon. I hate crushing them. Turn them forever with no drag, then the next time they are to tight. Maybe someday before I finish playing with cars I will fill like I have it figured out.

[squirrel]

on the rears with a removable pinion support you can crush them most of the way in a press...makes life easier.