Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Coilover spring rate?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Coilover spring rate?

    I have decided on saving the money on rack and pinion steering for a set of coilovers. I am going with the viking double adjustable setup with some tubular control arms. The car will be driven on the street mostly, but will see the dragstrip a bit. Its a 67 firebird, and with the tall deck BBC and fiberglass hood, I am guessing it won't be any heavier than the 400 and steel hood. I understand the stored energy thing, and would lean me towards a 350# spring, but they suggest for street driving a 550# spring. Seems like it would be very stiff. Thoughts?

  • #2
    many coilover manufacturers will trade out springs - doubly so if you follow their recommendation and you don't like it.
    With that said, I agree with their recommendation - especially if you lower the car at all.
    Springs set ride height, valving sets what most people perceive as stiffness. Too soft a spring and you'll get to coil bind - then it will ride rough.
    and finally, my C3 Corvette's target weight is 2800# - and I'm running 650# springs.....
    Doing it all wrong since 1966

    Comment


    • #3
      I am still trying to figure out coilovers for the back of the 67 camaro. While I was looking they suggested 450 pound with a small block so they are probably right. I know I like the front end higher and usually buy coils rated for factory air cars just to get more spring.
      Last edited by anotheridiot; July 29, 2019, 09:28 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        "normally" a front spring between 500lb on the low side (light car, smallblock, etc)
        and 700lbs on the high end ( heavier car, rat motor...) is what we shoot for in
        'daily driver' material. drag cars use lighter (more "boing" on launch) so we commonly
        used a factory 6cyl spring with a big block.

        Comment


        • #5
          I have been hesitant to respond. MY experience with coil-over front suspension is with MKII designs. With these the shocks are fairly short which even when cantilever has a somewhat limited amount of front suspension travel. To me, this requires a stiffer spring to manage the suspension travel over the shorter distance the shock travels.

          In my application with the engine sitting directly over the crossmember it required a stiffer spring than most recommended.
          Last edited by cstmwgn; July 31, 2019, 04:01 AM.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post
            r (more "boing" on launch)
            ah, the infamous boing factor....
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

            Comment


            • #7
              My biggest fear is getting the front end too stiff. But with a quality double adjustable shock it should mitigate the harshness, yeah?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                ah, the infamous boing factor....
                "boing" is a technical term.....

                Comment


                • #9
                  As is "doink"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Saz View Post
                    As is "doink"
                    technically, for FGZ, it's 'dork'
                    Doing it all wrong since 1966

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Saz View Post
                      My biggest fear is getting the front end too stiff. But with a quality double adjustable shock it should mitigate the harshness, yeah?
                      hereby proving both doink and dork are warranted in my case--

                      better too stiff than not stiff enough...

                      (hey, thats what SHE said!)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fatguyzinc View Post

                        hereby proving both doink and dork are warranted in my case--

                        better too stiff than not stiff enough...

                        (hey, thats what SHE said!)
                        same rules apply, if it's stiff for 4 hours, you'll need to be going to the hospital.
                        Doing it all wrong since 1966

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          What is the official way of doing this though, scales under all 4 tires to determine the real weight needed or can you just weigh an axle at a time?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            In my opinion - it would be best to scale the car so that you can be sure the weight distribution is correct. Regardless of what method you use to determine the weight on each wheel, you still need to do some math to get to the correct spring.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              You just need to choose between "hook" or "turn". Hell, a really good handling rear suspension would probably wheelhop with a good hard clutch drop. Don't want to get into THAT again!
                              My hobby is needing a hobby.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X