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  • #16
    WOW,
    What EXPRESSIVE different Opinions Here!!
    This could turn into a Real Good Food Fight ?!!
    Not Necessary, Just,......LOL

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    • #17
      Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

      8k between oil changes... that's some interesting advice.
      That's what all our later model cars get....the "change oil" light comes on between 7 and 8k on the GMs, and the Miata has 8k in the owners manual. And it works fine.

      They're trying to extend it to 10k, not sure how that's going. I'm still mostly stuck in the 2000s, not the 2010s, on modern cars.

      Keep in mind that most folks treat lubrication with a religious mindset, and facts have little to do with anything.
      My fabulous web page

      "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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      • #18
        STP has the extra zinc in it that todays oils lack.
        I know some say you don't need zinc in the oil with flat tappet cams, others say you're nuts to run a flat tappet cam without it.
        So, That is a subject that you are not going to change a persons mind on, So I'll leave it at that.
        I do know, you can't always find oil with the zinc/etc in it. Maybe in your country the auto parts stores carry it.
        STP is no more snake oil , than those bottles of fuel system cleaners. When todays fuel have cleaners in them already.

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        • #19
          They didn't take zinc out of oil. They reduced the zinc content. But if you understand how ZDDP works, you'll know that having more zinc does not increase the wear protection level of the oil, it only increases the life of the oil. And if you're changing the oil every 3k miles, you're not anywhere near using up the zinc in the "reduced zinc" oil.

          But that info won't sell additives or expensive oil, so you really don't need to know it.

          My fabulous web page

          "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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          • #20
            Real world testing, no test tubes but high zinc has kept our hi compression derby motors chugging along when others are thunderbooming or seized up..oil stinks when cooked, sparkly in sun, changed every derby.. Flat solid lifter cams

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Deaf Bob View Post
              Real world testing, no test tubes but high zinc has kept our hi compression derby motors chugging along when others are thunderbooming or seized up..oil stinks when cooked, sparkly in sun, changed every derby.. Flat solid lifter cams
              And you know that the only difference between you and them, is high zinc? Or could there possibly be something else going on here?

              My fabulous web page

              "If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk

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              • #22
                Talking with other drivers, they seem to have no qualms running regular oil in their derby spec motors by a builder.. We have regular oil for "loaners" and keep the hi zinc hidden..

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                • #23
                  The oil life meter on my towncar works out to over 12k miles between changes. I normally change it around 7.5k with about 40% oil like remaining.

                  I like changing oil more than changing motors
                  http://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum...-consolidation
                  1.54, 7.31 @ 94.14, 11.43 @ 118.95

                  PB 60' 1.49
                  ​​​​​​

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                  • #24
                    A tip on STP, learned at the expense of a customer back in my Buick mechanic days:

                    STP and ethylene glycol mixed together in a hot engine will turn into a thick sludge that the oil pump can't move. It WILL take out the engine. After seeing that (it was brought into the dealership by the Dad after the son tried to cover up abusing Dad's Electra 225) I swore off STP and other additives. "Hope in a bottle" as my bro calls them.

                    Dan

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                    • #25
                      Zinc and Molybdate is what they took out of oils due to the EPA, then the suggested change windows shortened. Those are the chemicals that keep the oil clinging to the metal parts when the car is turned off.

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                      • #26
                        Or screaming hot..

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by squirrel View Post

                          That's what all our later model cars get....the "change oil" light comes on between 7 and 8k on the GMs, and the Miata has 8k in the owners manual. And it works fine.

                          They're trying to extend it to 10k, not sure how that's going. I'm still mostly stuck in the 2000s, not the 2010s, on modern cars.

                          Keep in mind that most folks treat lubrication with a religious mindset, and facts have little to do with anything.
                          within the current topic - my 2018 Colorado has a 6k limit and the dealership has 3k. Before you say it, oil changes are free AND they warranty the powertrain if they service it for life.... why would a dealership recommend 1/2 the manufacturer? because unlike GM or whoever, once the warranty is gone so is the car.... 3k-5k, frankly if we want to double down on the manufacturers who recommend that - I'll assert that they have no business making that recommendation.... I trust the person who's got to replace my motor if it goes bad - at their expense.

                          In the same vein, STP works for what it is - and additive for cheap oil or a great way to rid one of a knock to sell the car to a dealership.....

                          and blanket statements.... why do that?
                          I used to think SeaFoam was snake oil, I know now that it's not..... especially in the world of PCV valves that coat everything....
                          Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; March 6, 2020, 07:06 PM.
                          Doing it all wrong since 1966

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                          • #28
                            I think, I'll stick to adding the "extra" zinc and other items the oil is now lacking or has much less of today.
                            As no one is going to pay for the repairs, or full rebuild if a lifter face goes flat ,Then takes out a cam lobe .
                            The one on the hook for those repairs or full rebuild because of metal from the lifter and lobe is now all over the engine will me, me and my purse.

                            As for oil change intervals, I can see going 8k today as the fuel system isn't over fueling while cold and filling the crankcase with fuel byproducts.
                            I don't go more than 5k most times on the late model vehicle, no matter what the vehicles oil life meter claims.
                            Caught a leaking injector issue this way, If I waited to do the oil change per the vehicles meter 3500 miles later, I don't think that would've ended well.
                            A few extra oil changes over a vehicles life span is cheap insurance.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post

                              within the current topic - my 2018 Colorado has a 6k limit and the dealership has 3k. Before you say it, oil changes are free AND they warranty the powertrain if they service it for life.... why would a dealership recommend 1/2 the manufacturer? because unlike GM or whoever, once the warranty is gone so is the car.... 3k-5k, frankly if we want to double down on the manufacturers who recommend that - I'll assert that they have no business making that recommendation.... I trust the person who's got to replace my motor if it goes bad - at their expense.

                              In the same vein, STP works for what it is - and additive for cheap oil or a great way to rid one of a knock to sell the car to a dealership.....

                              and blanket statements.... why do that?
                              I used to think SeaFoam was snake oil, I know now that it's not..... especially in the world of PCV valves that coat everything....
                              my 2003 chevy vans light goes on about 3500 miles. That is computer reading information on driving habits, oil pressure history. Seems its been alot longer than current models.
                              Real oil, back in the late 70's early eighties when you changed oil before winter started and when winter ended whether it needed it or not were when cars were considered junk when they hit 70k, let alone 100k. Just amazing when people pay double for synthetic oil (NAZI oil) that pouring 5 bucks in the crank case causes such an argument.

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                              • #30
                                Just one last thing to remember . New cars have thin oil because todays engine have much tighter clearances do to better machinery used to make the parts . I'm not thickening mine up . I am staying with my mobil one though .
                                Previously HoosierL98GTA

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