anybody know...

[Ericnova72]

Dominators, small block. Wrong parts.

That's the Grumpy's Toy XI "tribute" car, not the real thing....and from the content of that video, owned and operated by a group of idiots who couldn't tuna fish.

You think Grumpy would have ever put up with that kind of poor carburetor behavior??

it's not because it's two Dominators, that's a fact.

[RockJustRock]

I've always thought that if I ever do another tunnel ram, I'll simply disconnect the 'rear' butterflies.... then it looks like I've got 1500 cfm but really only 750.... backstory is I had a friend who really wanted a tunnel ram on his 283 in his Nova.... we could never get it to run, let alone run right.... ah the young n dumb days. I'm not like my dad where everything he touched ran until I started wrenching on cars.....

You could get the same effect by running vacuum secondaries and stiff springs. You could also run a progressive linkage opening the rear carb first. The problem isn't just overall size though. It is how the fuel gets dispersed. The smaller throttle bores don't fix everything, just enough to get by. It's not the difference between fast and faster. It's the difference between BWAAAHHHH and BOOOOOGGGG.

[RockJustRock]

Dominators, small block. Wrong parts.

[SuperBuickGuy]

Not trolling one bit. Manifold design isn't just the manifold, but how it interacts with fuel delivery.

I remember when Edelbrock introduced the Tarantula. Everyone said single plane would never replace the dual plane for street use. Then Edelbrock introduced the Torker. Fact is unless there is a major problem with the carburetor interacting with the engine and the thing falls on it's face power change from manifold configuration is very subtle. Only noticeable if there is a car going just as hard beside you.

The 390s DO fix most driveability issues with tunnel rams. They just won't win you any races, but you can still go really fast.

The wrong parts is the wrong parts. You can get them working O.K., but you will never get them working better than the right parts. You get almost as good and you got them cheap or had them on hand. The wrong parts just can't be better than the right parts but they can be more convenient.

But EFI is nearly ALWAYS the right stuff. It would take a pretty f**ked up air box to kill a good EFI setup.

I've always thought that if I ever do another tunnel ram, I'll simply disconnect the 'rear' butterflies.... then it looks like I've got 1500 cfm but really only 750.... backstory is I had a friend who really wanted a tunnel ram on his 283 in his Nova.... we could never get it to run, let alone run right.... ah the young n dumb days. I'm not like my dad where everything he touched ran until I started wrenching on cars.....

[RockJustRock]

Not trolling one bit. Manifold design isn't just the manifold, but how it interacts with fuel delivery.

I remember when Edelbrock introduced the Tarantula. Everyone said single plane would never replace the dual plane for street use. Then Edelbrock introduced the Torker. Fact is unless there is a major problem with the carburetor interacting with the engine and the thing falls on it's face power change from manifold configuration is very subtle. Only noticeable if there is a car going just as hard beside you.

The 390s DO fix most driveability issues with tunnel rams. They just won't win you any races, but you can still go really fast.

The wrong parts is the wrong parts. You can get them working O.K., but you will never get them working better than the right parts. You get almost as good and you got them cheap or had them on hand. The wrong parts just can't be better than the right parts but they can be more convenient.

But EFI is nearly ALWAYS the right stuff. It would take a pretty f**ked up air box to kill a good EFI setup.

[cstmwgn]

Guys - you are going the wrong direction. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a tunnel ram on the street as long as your pistons are big enough!

[anotheridiot]

I don't see a troll... a clutch and 4.88's will keep it closer to the happy spot. Please don't say it's to improve MPG!! lmao. The HP / TQ numbers in the super mega ram graphs weren't impressive for a 350 and begs the question how it would compare to an RPM Air Gap which is mucho better than an RPM. The look of a tunnel ram can't be denied though, I get that. There are a lot of styles exposed by Squirrel's recommended query for "Anti-Reversion" and carb spacers.


Are you talking about something like this, or the high dollar stuff from Reher Morrison / Summit below it?




Or

This was one of the first things we tried, but eventually found that the anti reversion was most needed if you are starting to fade at the big end after a full pass of wide open throttle and its benefit was closer to 7000 rpm's.

[Beagle]

I don't see a troll... a clutch and 4.88's will keep it closer to the happy spot. Please don't say it's to improve MPG!! lmao. The HP / TQ numbers in the super mega ram graphs weren't impressive for a 350 and begs the question how it would compare to an RPM Air Gap which is mucho better than an RPM. The look of a tunnel ram can't be denied though, I get that. There are a lot of styles exposed by Squirrel's recommended query for "Anti-Reversion" and carb spacers.


Are you talking about something like this, or the high dollar stuff from Reher Morrison / Summit below it?




Or

[fatguyzinc]

dont feed the troll, guys.....

[Ericnova72]

Thats the problem, all city driving is below 2500, so you just start to get decent at 2500 you still have a problem. Some of us have to drive thru a city to get to a highway.

That's why II said be serious, and use a 3000+ rpm converter or a manual trans and behavior below 2800 rpm the converter just soaks up or you downshift the manual trans. You can get high stall converters that don't act like a slip-n-slide at part throttle, but this leads back to the serious performance guy again because they ain't no $350 or less off-the-shelf cheapo's....you spend a bit more and get one custom that actually works..

T-ram and 390 or 450 cfm carbs =crap....T-ram and 2500 stall converter = crap...T-ram and less than 3.73 gear = crap.
If your gonna run a ram be serious...don't strangle it off at 4500 rpm with restrictor gimmicks so you can putter around like your driving Gramdma's sedan.

Okay, soapbox rant over, I'm not specifically aiming at anyone and not trying to be a meanie, just good real advice about running a T-ram on the street....if the look is all your after, carry on and fab up the duckbill restrictors, can't be that hard to make with a Tig welder and few chunks of 1/4" aluminum plate and a drill press.

[RockJustRock]

Here\s an idea. Plumb your tunnel ram at the ports for EFI. It's not the air but how it carries the fuel. Would an EFI on a tunnel ram NOT be driveable?

[anotheridiot]

It might be worth a look at the restrictors that folks use to reduce the ports in Ford Cleveland 4V heads. They tend to be WAY RPM happy and these are said to help. I haven't looked for them lately but they might be more or less what you're looking for.

Dan

We are having enough trouble finding pictures of these.......... I see one where it looks like a guy put JB weld on the bottom half of the intake port.

[anotheridiot]

I will say this...since this is Bangshift man, come on!!!!...that Real Street Ram crap is for the street rodder wanna-bee's to putt-putt around the cruise night with a tunnel ram....IMO anyone really running a tunnel ram needs to really be using it - not caring how it acts below3000 rpm, running a 3000+ rpm stall converter or a manual trans, revving it to 7500+ rpm and making serious noise and power with it....otherwise, why bother??.

I'd think you would be better off to get carbs with annular boosters so it can be tuned to still have decent manners at 2500 rpm if you have to have it....choking the tunnel ram off with little funnel gimmicks under the carbs is just stoooopid IMO.

I had to say it....

Oh well, different strokes for different folks, a butt for every seat...

Thats the problem, all city driving is below 2500, so you just start to get decent at 2500 you still have a problem. Some of us have to drive thru a city to get to a highway.

[Ericnova72]

I will say this...since this is Bangshift man, come on!!!!...that Real Street Ram crap is for the street rodder wanna-bee's to putt-putt around the cruise night with a tunnel ram....IMO anyone really running a tunnel ram needs to really be using it - not caring how it acts below3000 rpm, running a 3000+ rpm stall converter or a manual trans, revving it to 7500+ rpm and making serious noise and power with it....otherwise, why bother??.

I'd think you would be better off to get carbs with annular boosters so it can be tuned to still have decent manners at 2500 rpm if you have to have it....choking the tunnel ram off with little funnel gimmicks under the carbs is just stoooopid IMO.

I had to say it....

Oh well, different strokes for different folks, a butt for every seat...

[DanStokes]

It might be worth a look at the restrictors that folks use to reduce the ports in Ford Cleveland 4V heads. They tend to be WAY RPM happy and these are said to help. I haven't looked for them lately but they might be more or less what you're looking for.

Dan