I've never used clevises in suspension, so I have a basic question for those who have. Should there be any clearance between the clevis and the bracket? If I use 3/8 slot brackets and 3/8 CRS for the brackets, there is essentially no clearance. So in my (admittedly warped old) mind, I forsee binding and bending in my future. Thoughts???
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Clevises
Collapse
X
-
sounds like a reasonable assumption. You need some clearance. How much, might depend on how misaligned the parts can get in normal use. I would guess somewhere around .010-.040" might be appropriate.My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
-
I get a nice dry lube from Grainger, its called slip plate sprays on blackish, will help wear and bind if its tight. I use rod ends to set up 4 bars, I usually set up the brackets with washers between to make sure there is room. But those have bushings in them not like a metal to metal clevis.Last edited by anotheridiot; July 18, 2020, 04:25 PM.
Comment
-
My car guy history buff self says I`ve seen pictures of hot rods, dirt cars and Indy race cars with hairpins using clevises from the 40s on, and they seem to work
My engineering background says that there will be binding and bending, which my background in a previous position where we broke stuff on purpose, says this could be problematic. I'm building a new project with hairpins and am concerned they will bind. Any thoughts
Comment
-
Jim never used them either. Spherical rod ends or rubber bushes, and ocasionally tie rod ends. He's the one that influenced me to always have some compliance. Things that bind, break, and that IS something I know about, hence my reluctance to using clevises. With a rod end of some sort, there is the ability to move in some plane, whereas a clevis at best can only rotate around the bolt axis, and even that is restricted with a hairpin radius rod. Oh well I am going to use rod ends after all, so the point is moot...
Engineers always like big words.
Comment
Comment