Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy
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gas powered air brush air compressor
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I'm guessing the carb will want adjustment at that altitude. The adjustment needles on every different piece of equipment I see these days have a different style of anti-tamper head on them. Some of the import replacement carbs have normal flat head screw heads. Maybe send a pac-man screwdriver kit with it depending on what you have?Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.
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Originally posted by Beagle View PostI'm guessing the carb will want adjustment at that altitude. The adjustment needles on every different piece of equipment I see these days have a different style of anti-tamper head on them. Some of the import replacement carbs have normal flat head screw heads. Maybe send a pac-man screwdriver kit with it depending on what you have?
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy
part of that valve assembly is exactly that.... this truly is a work in progress.... I figure that someone, somewhere has done this (the control) but everything I am finding is basically a governor with a bunch of moving parts. While those work great on larger equipment - I can see a lot of problem because this will be handled and abused a lot.... maybe some kind of pressure tube? I dunno... work in progress.
and to be even more specific. The throttle needs to be at idle to start, then once warm, go full throttle (which after experiment last night is about 1/4" or so of travel and not, actually wot) to develop air pressure. Once it's developed air pressure it's easy to control it.... but it's the start/first fill that I don't have a clear vision of how to achieve.
the other problem not yet discussed is the pressure, max pressure before the bov goes is 100 psi. Most compressors have 95 psi minimum/150 max...
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How much volume does a dentist drill use? Residual pressure in tank may go a long way. Crank it up before you go off into the field?
First cold start of the day, if you baby the choke until it warms up, does it handle being wide open? Old Lawnboy two strokes were the fussiest I've ever used, and they had a 2/3 throttle and all throttle position. The 2/3 throttle position might as well have not been there. They always started full throttle, and they were cold-natured. The newer (hah, late 60's, early 70's) had primers that basically pressurized the float bowl and crammed fuel up the main jet. They always got several squirts before they would really light off. I have to babysit the choke on my leaf blower for a minute or so, it likes to stall when it's cold and they get worse with age.
Maybe loosen up the clutch springs if you're stalling it on initial load?
Man, if you start out at 14,000 ... and then you start flying over stuff... do you need oxygen to fly? I would. I'd be dead at 14,000, curse you nicotine. At that altitude, 86 octane will be plenty for a weedeater motor.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuy
my conscience does kind of bother me about getting dental drills to the mountain people of Bolivia. (not a fan of dental work)
Tim
Melbourne Australia
65 Hardtop Impala, 70 GTS Monaro, 93 "80" Landcruiser
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Originally posted by SuperBuickGuymore on the solution
why isn't it elegant? because the head was 187 degrees.... which means when it's cold, fine, but it means that some might get burned.... but I ran out of ideas - the problem is, mostly any additional weight on that line and it doesn't work right. So this is a 'be careful' and maybe I'll start on the next generation but this time use a car tire air compressor... but this will get them by for now. How is it? the imperfect is better than the unavailable.
Hope they appreciate the effort asking for close to impossible.
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Edited heavily for clarity
If there's more motor available than compressor requirement, a centrifugal clutch ala weedeater and something like briggs or lawnboy both used at one point or another, a simple air vane governor might be worth giving a moments thought to at some point. It can warm up off idle without having to and unloaded, then throttle it up to wherever it needs to run at to engage the clutch and ultimately, whatever it needs to stay ahead of the air demand / fill the tank when it's warm. The governor for load you are already using would be supplemental, moving the throttle setting, not the the throttle shaft. Lawnboy used perhaps the most clever / compact. The air vane was spring loaded against the throttle shaft and connected directly to the shaft. The spring arrangement didn't allow that much rpm variance as delivered though, you'd have to set up a lever to be able to change it significantly. The yellow shaft up there goes into the shroud area and is moved by air from the cooling fins on the flywheel.
The Briggs stuff has much larger RPM change capacity out of the box.
Meanwhile, looks great. What about Neodynium magnets for your s-hook connection?Last edited by Beagle; September 10, 2020, 10:34 AM.Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.
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*trying to be funny, no help here*. Maybe of you make it so he can heat up coffee nor soup on the compressor the extra heat will not be seen as a bad thing
Carry-on!
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