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  • electrolysis revisited

    I searched for this subject and found an old thread. What I didn't see was any mention of dissimilar metals in the mix. I have some Neway valve seat cutter heads that I just acquired that haves ome rust on the steel parts, however the main body of these items is made of aluminum. Never having tried this method before, I am curious as to what will happen to the aluminum during the process. So does anyone have experience with electrolysis of mixed metals? If this is a no-no is there any other way short of media blasting that will clean the rust off the steel parts without affecting the alloy parts?

  • #2
    Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
    I searched for this subject and found an old thread. What I didn't see was any mention of dissimilar metals in the mix. I have some Neway valve seat cutter heads that I just acquired that haves ome rust on the steel parts, however the main body of these items is made of aluminum. Never having tried this method before, I am curious as to what will happen to the aluminum during the process. So does anyone have experience with electrolysis of mixed metals? If this is a no-no is there any other way short of media blasting that will clean the rust off the steel parts without affecting the alloy parts?
    I made a thread about it years ago. https://bangshift.com/forum/forum/ba...ctrolysis-tank

    It will eat the aluminum.. Refer to this page: http://www.antique-engine.ns.ca/electrolysis.html

    The homemade tank set-up is best used for steel parts only.

    I'd use Evapo-rust on parts you are describing. Tape off the aluminum bits (if possible) and submerge the steel bits.

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    • #3
      I cleaned a bunch of tools and a couple of files that had been in a fire and rusted with 50/50 water and white vinegar. It worked surprisingly well. I'd pull the cutters off the aluminum body and drop them in a glass of vinegar for a day or so. Worst case, the cutters are about 10 bucks apiece.

      I have not tried that with aluminum, not sure what to expect. Those bodies are hard anodized, I don't think a short dip would hurt them, but I'd test it on something like a free harbor freight flashlight body first.

      Oh yeah, wear gloves when you remove the cutters from the vinegar. The exposed (not chrome) steel stuff I dipped came out with a nasty black layer (converted oxide? Not sure, I'm not a chemist...) that will happily attach itself to your skin and stay there for a day or three.
      Last edited by Beagle; September 15, 2020, 05:30 AM.
      Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by tardis454 View Post
        ...I'd use Evapo-rust...
        I used this stuff on a bunch of rusted nasty 50 year old truck hardware and it did amazingly well on the steel stuff and didn't seem to hurt the aluminum. Not sure I would leave it in too long (how ever long that is).



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        • #5
          I'm clueless. Call Bruce Kolowich? (Wonder if he's still there......) Or you can bring it over and blast it in the blast cabinet.

          Dan

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          • #6
            Thanks guys for the input. Yeah, I was contemplating soda blasting, as the lab I retired from has that. I can still visit as long as I invoke the donut rule: bring a dozen donuts...

            I rather not use chemicals as I have no disposal capability that is safe. Hey former EPA and DEC scientist (I know doesn't figure a gearhead working for the enemy). Penence for a life of racing.

            How about other non-abrasive methods? I'm open to cheap sugguestions.

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            • #7
              err.. chemicals? Vinegar is pretty much wine left uncorked? "Spoiled" grape juice? Might clear clog buildup in your sink traps when you pour it down there? Natural weed killer? The acidic part is where I would wonder about the aluminum.

              Soda blasting... hmmm. As small as those parts are, what about a 20.00 Harbor Freight "spot" blaster and a box of Arm and Hammer?

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              The only time I used soda, it was a huge pressure pot setup and that stuff pulled water out of the air so it could jam. I don't think that "setup" was fully baked.
              Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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              • #8
                I was referring to things like evaporust as chemicals. I tend to stay away from things that are listed as poison on the labeling. I don't know anything about evaporust but some of the chemical rust removers out there are downright nasty.

                I like the idea for the blast gun. And what's $20? Thanks for posting that...

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                • #9
                  soda does not go after the rust, thats why all these portable blasting setups have gone to glass. Glass has the same properties as what they like from soda, exploding when it hits the metal and giving an extra kick to blow more off at the hit. Just dont know why you would want to blast a cutting tool and dull it, unless you are planning to sharpen again anyway.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by anotheridiot View Post
                    soda does not go after the rust, thats why all these portable blasting setups have gone to glass. Glass has the same properties as what they like from soda, exploding when it hits the metal and giving an extra kick to blow more off at the hit. Just dont know why you would want to blast a cutting tool and dull it, unless you are planning to sharpen again anyway.
                    If we're talking the same tools, NeWay cutters,

                    Click image for larger version

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ID:	1280541These inserts are something between 1/4 - 1/2" long side typically. The carbide cutters that fit into this type of aluminum / steel body:
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                    I was teasing about the vinegar being a poison, but it did work pretty good on the couple of mill bastards I threw in there for a soak. I'd be leary of anything nasty around that aluminum myself, hard anodized or not.

                    Flying south, with a flock of bird dogs.

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                    • #11
                      The main body of Neway cutters is aluminum with a steel drive mandrel through it. Those are rusted from previous owners shop being rather wet. I have plenty of new cutting blades and can get new socket head flathead capscrews and the hold down washers can be either cleaned up or replaced. But the main body, I don't want to think what it would cost to replace all the pieces in the set. Hey remember I mentioned somewhere in the past about being half Scots. I'm not saying I'm cheap, just thrifty...

                      anyway, thanks for all the input. Yeah, I'll probably try glass or plastic media with that Harbor Fright gun. Now I just have to pull the big old compressor out of the shed.

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                      • #12
                        And I haven't looked close yet. I wonder if the body can be dissassembled, so that only the steel part would need to soak... hmmm

                        Well we all know what fun old stuff can be

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by dave.g.in.gansevoort View Post
                          I was referring to things like evaporust as chemicals. I tend to stay away from things that are listed as poison on the labeling. I don't know anything about evaporust but some of the chemical rust removers out there are downright nasty.
                          Evapo-Rust is non-toxic and biodegradable... https://evapo-rust.com/

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                          • #14
                            Thanks for that info on evaporust. I think I'll look into it more.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Beagle View Post

                              If we're talking the same tools, NeWay cutters,

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ID:	1280541These inserts are something between 1/4 - 1/2" long side typically. The carbide cutters that fit into this type of aluminum / steel body:
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                              I was teasing about the vinegar being a poison, but it did work pretty good on the couple of mill bastards I threw in there for a soak. I'd be leary of anything nasty around that aluminum myself, hard anodized or not.
                              Probably what you were talking about, not me. lol

                              if you are worried about it, I have had some luck just using PB Nutblaster in a soak. I usually get to the point where an aerosol wont work anymore, or all the air is gone and there is still liquid in the can, pry off the top like you would do to get the marbles out of spray paint cans, pour it in a jar then soak in there. That might be the safest on all metals.
                              When they say concrete etching and at the home center they are talking muriatic acid, which is 50% hydrochloric acid which is old school use for rust removal on steel in the industries for steel. That will get the job done on steel, the home center is pretty weak stuff so it takes a while. Aluminum will fizz but not be destructively attacked, but it will end up getting the natural aluminum defense of powder oxide to protect itself.

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