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  • Welds???

    I've been looking at lots of project cars and thinking (I know thatalone is scary...). When doing sheetmetal work, when do you weld solid accepting warpage and lots of snagging hammering shrinking/stretching, and when and what do you do instead? a complete new floor with tunnel and other non-flat parts, what gets stiched, versus spot/plug welds? Strucktural welds like a roll cage or frame rails, no problem. As Dan Stokes would say a job worth doing is worth overdoing, or is it?

    So preferences? Examples? Recommendations? Let's get a discussion going (regoing if one already exists).

  • #2
    if you can feel the warp through the carpet, add some grout to smooth it out. Nice thing about building cars, low is 'style' so you can make it low enough that even the snarky ants get the antenna taken off.... one of my favorite lines from the YouTube car shows I've been posting is this "fit for purpose" .... if it's fit for purpose, it's fine....
    Doing it all wrong since 1966


    • #3
      Sounds similar to a part wearing in .
      Previously HoosierL98GTA


      • #4
        well, in the long run, if you can get the entire floor, get the entire floor or trunk pans. Its one stamped sheet, you just weld the edges. My take is based on the car. If its a unibody, weld everything. Sitting on a frame, you can plug or stitch. Most times its welding everything or overdoing here.


        • #5
          And don't forget bonding. As long as the metal's clean you can lap the seams and glue 'em together and get OEM quality joints. I have the Lord Fusor system but 3M and others make great products for this. I bought Fusor because the gun was cheaper - you can borrow mine. A few sheetmetal screws to hold the parts while the bonding agent sets then fill the screw holes w/bond. Interesting tech.



          • #6
            We missd the point: I was thinking that people who have lots of experience doing all kinds of repairs might just show a brief example of how they prefer to effect repairs, so that we neophytes can learn from other's vast experience. Oh well, I guess I was too vague. Never mind...


            • #7
              a lot of pages, but a lot of metal work here

              Doing it all wrong since 1966


              • #8
                If you wanted to do traditional O/A welding, it can be done using filler, or in a fusion weld if you can get the joints absolutely tight. Here's the method as taught by Peter Tommasini.


                After the initial tack he adds each subsequent tack at the intersection of the previous HAZ line with the panel joint. When done you'll find that even though its just tacked, you have a nice consistent HAZ width. Here's my attempt at following this method...

                Notice the consistent HAZ width from using this method. And even though I blew a hole in the fusion weld process, the finished shows a nice consistent HAZ as well..



                This was done using a Meco torch and very little regulator pressure, about 5 lbs or less.

                Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom

                MP&C Youtube Channel


                • #9
                  my formal education in welding started with OA welding.... good times.
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966


                  • #10
                    When i weld sheetmetal, i tack it up first, then get a bucket of water with a rag or sponge in it. Weld a little bit, then quench it. Move around. Repeat. It minimizes the warpage quiet a bit. Heres a couple random pics using this method. A rocker repair and antenna delete.


                    • #11
                      trial and error of the given geometry of a whole area.
                      I started with less than 20ga japanese tin..15 years ago now. that wa sin the middle of winter, white salt still ont he panel.
                      no one told me that was abnormal.

                      it ended up a lesson i carry into gm truck frames.

                      I never warp anything...of course, I am only on my first summer of 220v options. always been gentle 110v, or slow on the high setting to keep heat.
                      where there is a will there is a way.

                      ..I ignore stacking dimes or whatever that artwork is. i go for connections.
                      looking back, I have done all the normal chores. rockers, floors, cab corners (quarters), cross sills, framing, laminating..rivet swapping to bolt conversion.
                      not much else left in the automotive world.

                      my very first metal work was brazing my chevette exhaust in the 80s (high school shop class with a teacher)
                      Previously boxer3main
                      the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by redneckjoe69 View Post
                        When i weld sheetmetal, i tack it up first, then get a bucket of water with a rag or sponge in it. Weld a little bit, then quench it. Move around. Repeat. It minimizes the warpage quiet a bit. Heres a couple random pics using this method. A rocker repair and antenna delete.
                        The only down side to that is that it hardens the weld beads considerably meaning the "grind to fit" process is more difficult. But that's kind of a tradeoff as you'll probably need less grinding. Toss of the coin........



                        • #13
                          as usual, "it depends" MP&C has some great videos, with access to youtube, it's amazing what you can learn. Welding tips and tricks .com is another great welding resource - he has a lot of great videos and does great camera work with clear gas lenses so you can literally watch the welding puddle as he does his work.... it's about as close to looking over an instructors shoulder as you can get.
                          There's always something new to learn.


                          • #14
                            For me structural welding is what I learned early on. I also started with O/A and was welding 1/8 inch stuff with good penetration. Note however it was stuff that I didn't need to worry about warpage. By the 90s working with mig and O/A I sorta restored/modified a 67 Mini, with body work by Dan Stokes. I deseamed the thing, and if it wasn't for Dan's ability it would have been wavy as Farrah Faucet's hair.

                            Now building the "Whatever" the body is fiberglass and NEW so hopefully I won't have body work to do. The chassis is all tubing and plate of various thicknesses, and I am tig welding alot of it, which forces me to slow down. I learned from others and experience to make small welds and let it cool. I also have the time to weld symetrically so that Mr. Shrink works for me.

                            But I am open to new (or old ) tricks tips and techniques. So keep them coming...