I'm putting a Studebaker truck on a 2wd s-10 chassis - removing from a 4x4 chassis. I pulled the cab off today, and was astounded by the amount of rust on the flaming river joints and on the D shaft.... to the point, two of the set screws had rusted and one broke off..... The outside of the joint looks fine, but the u-joint, and the set screws are rusted solid. They've been on the car for maybe 5 years and never exposed to the elements.... anyone else having this kind of trouble with their stuff?
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Flaming river rust
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Re: Flaming river rust
probably plain steel parts that were never painted or anything, eh? Kind of hard to blame FR for using steel, I'd say
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Re: Flaming river rust
however, the u-joint housings are stainless - it's one of those "if you had told me" kind of deals. Although, even if they did I'm not sure how you'd pull the joint apart to coat the inner workings.... I'll get some pictures tomorrow - this is not what I would consider reasonable.....Doing it all wrong since 1966
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Re: Flaming river rust
the last d shaft and column I used was an idditt and it was all raw steel for west coast style - should use the GM rust standard - even with that we had problems
on the bosses dump truck with noisey intermediate shaft it was all rusted up , had to separate with air hammer - it was 3 years old
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Re: Flaming river rust
It's not necessarily the elements... you can keep a car in the garage all the time, never drive it in the rain, and still have corrosion.
It's called galvanic corrosion. Any amount of moisture (do happen to live in an area that gets humid or rainy?) will get into everywhere/every place a molecule of air can get... and that moisture creates a medium for two dis-similar types of metal to react... and the weaker one (plain steel usually...) corrodes faster. Especially if there's any stray voltage ANYWHERE.
Was the body grounded to the frame? If not, that steering column was acting as the ground...
Even with paint on the hardware, that corrosion would've happened; you'd need to use a stainless set screw.
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Re: Flaming river rust
I was looking at their web page, they have a few different materials available. And it looks like the stainless joints they offer now are not what they used to have..
My fabulous web page
"If it don't go, chrome it!" --Stroker McGurk
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Re: Flaming river rust
A steel - stainless galvanic cell would require water to activate but it could become significant. The alloying elements in the stainless really change the galvanic cell potential of the steel. Dry contact will not create a serious galvanic cell and the metal will quickly passivate after surface oxidation.Central TEXAS Sleeper
USAF Physicist
ROA# 9790
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Re: Flaming river rust
I would never suggest a SS set screw in a SS thread. SS on SS will gall like a son of a gun and you can't back the screw out. Brass is a better choice than SS or steel if it tends to rust. I'd think if you used anti-seize it would be OK but I have no experience with these parts.
Dan
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Re: Flaming river rust
Holy Crap!!! That looks like the stuff in my ultrasound tank after I had the electronics putting almost a Volt of potential across the steel bearings in the stainless pillow blocks. Ended up having to set screw the bearings in place the corrostion on both parts was so bad. I'd swear that joint and shaft was underwater!
Dan is right about galling, I left those set screws in place and didn't want them to come out. Only way I got the one I needed out was to knock the bearings out with a press then screw it on through. It was not coming out the way it went in.Central TEXAS Sleeper
USAF Physicist
ROA# 9790
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