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HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

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  • #16

    Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

    Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

    The Shelby blocks are machined for standard FE cam bearings and come already installed. If the customer needs to replace them just go to the parts store and buy a set for a 390. 8)
    There are very few people in this world who's opinion I value, you are not one of them.

    300 in 1999

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    • #17

      Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

      Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

      Sounds like a simple fix for what seemed like a major problem. I'm not sure i'd bother with shipping it to Arkansas when it could maybe be fixed in the car.

      What is the Durabond number for the Pond block cam bearings? Or should i just go to the roller ones from the start? Any issues with those?

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      • #18

        Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

        Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

        Thanks for the input everyone. Really great information. Motor is already out of the Cobra and sitting on the pallet to be shipped to Kieth. Want to do this right and there may have been metal material, etc that ran through the whole motor. The bottom of the pan was nasty. lots of this metalic colored oil. :o yuck!

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        • #19

          Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

          Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

          As long as it's fixed, correctly, and you don't pay twice for it. :o

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          • #20

            Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?

            Re: HELP!!!!! Spun bearing in Ford FE 482 stroker?



            Edit> About the balancer, that front bolt should be torqued to 150 ft-lbs! The torque on that bolt is what actually holds the lower timing gear in place on the crank, not that wimpy little key. It sounds like on your engine the key was doing all the work. If the key partially or completely sheared, your cam is no longer in phase with your crank, which could lead to all kinds of problems. However, I don't think loss of oil pressure is one of them, unless the gear is now just spinning freely on the crank (not turning the cam, and so not turning the oil pump). Just make sure you have that bolt torqued to spec when you reassemble the engine.
            You hit on something there that has been long overdue. I always put blue loctite on the bolt and torque it to 110 myself (because the loctite is a very good thread lube I am thinking it would be about 130 with oil) , even on a stocker. It needs to set up good to hold correctly. The engine spinning wants to unscrew that bolt every time you hit it hard. I also smear just a little blue on the cam dowel before installing it, and also on the cam bolt, torquing it to 45 lbs ft, which with the lubrication is close to 60. Use a little blue loctite on the threads of the cam retainer too. Barry R has some slick little allen screws that torque up a lot nicer than the phillips heads. Really embarrassing moment was leaving the cam spacer in behind the top timing gear recently after the doing the drill a bazillion times. :D Not to make excuses but I really couldn't see well enough to do the job, I was helping my son put a timing set in the old 352 and darned if we didn't leave it in there. Fortunately It only ran a few seconds and the cam was OK, but man that's a humbler. :

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