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BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

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  • #31
    Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

    Originally posted by IndyShiftman

    And CD4E's do suck. Expensive and usually cost more than the car is worth.
    Agreed. I basically did it to say I did it, and learn from it. And learn I did.

    One of the hardest parts for me was not the dis-assembly or putting the mess back together...but was figuring out what revisions took place over what years, and changes in various parts and what was interchangeable and getting the right hard parts ordered. Quite a mess with that tranny, given all they tried throwing at it over the years to make it "not suck". Heck there are 3 different band actuators based on color if I remember correctly.

    I bet the 700R4 is more sorted out with that type of stuff. Your writeups are great stuff. Would like to see a 4R100 if you get the time. ;D

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    • #32
      Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

      BTW, welcome to the boards.

      Comment


      • #33
        Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

        Great work Indy...I like the BS logo in the pics. :o I have been studying up on WC T5's. Mine is starting to get a vibration.I would look forward to a build like that too.

        Thanks again, Buddy
        Living the dream!

        Comment


        • #34
          Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

          Jeff - you are the man - this stuff is the best!

          How similar are the 200 4 r to the 700? Are they similar enough that this write up could be used for a 200?

          Great pictures - I have a really hard time getting my olympus autofocus camera to work that nicely on macro mode for the detail in close ups.... your camera is a high end piece is it not?
          There's always something new to learn.

          Comment


          • #35
            Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

            Originally posted by milner351
            Jeff - you are the man - this stuff is the best!

            How similar are the 200 4 r to the 700? Are they similar enough that this write up could be used for a 200?

            Great pictures - I have a really hard time getting my olympus autofocus camera to work that nicely on macro mode for the detail in close ups.... your camera is a high end piece is it not?
            Not similar at all. Maybe I can do the 200 sometime in the future.

            My camera is the Nikon D90 and I use a small wide angle zoom lens. It's not macro. I just stand back and zoom in.
            I use Corel Paint Shop Pro Photo X2 to edit, place arrows and to make and place the bangshift watermark.

            Comment


            • #36
              Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

              Sorry for the delay. Just got back from a mini vacation last night... Should have part 3 up in a day or so.

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              • #37
                Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                How'd you like Mackinac?
                There's always something new to learn.

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                • #38
                  Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                  I thought I knew how to do automatic transmissions and this write-up proves I was right.

                  1) Remove transmissions (any type)
                  2) Send to Indianapolis, IN
                  3) Stay out of the way and watch the parts fly
                  4) Write check
                  5) Reinstall transmission

                  Simple.
                  Dan

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                    Originally posted by milner351
                    How'd you like Mackinac?
                    Loved it. I was surprised of all the pretty girls there. I would love to send the night on the island while enjoying adult beverages.

                    Back to the trans. I took several shots today but didn't get all i wanted done. But there will be an update soon.

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                      Part 3 is up!

                      Been pretty busy at work so I decided to move the project to my personal work bench so I could keep out of the way of my employees. Plus I wanted to try some different lighting to see how the pics would come out.

                      For my next trick, I will attempt to put all this;


                      into this


                      First there is a thin O ring that goes down into the bottom of the input drum.
                      Fit it into the groove and lube it up with Transgel.


                      Next find the 3-4 apply piston and install the lip seals on it. Lube them up also.


                      If your lucky enough to have an older snap on tool box, you may have some of these drawer removal tools. They are my favorite choice of lip seal tool.


                      Set the 3-4 piston into the bottom of the drum and run the lip seal tool around the outer seal. Twist the piston some and that will help it fall into place.


                      Next we need the 3-4 clutch apply ring. I am using an Raybestos 3-4 Z Pak. The instructions say to use an apply ring that has a #7 stamped into it.. This one does not.


                      So after a quick check on the parts shelves, I found this one.


                      The difference being shown here. The #7 (on right) is slightly shorter allowing more room for clutch clearance.


                      The apply ring fits into the drum with the fingers placed in the wide slots in the drum.


                      The 3-4 return spring pack is needed next.


                      It is stacked onto the 3-4 apply ring.


                      Next the forward clutch housing and forward clutch piston are needed. Place the lip seals on the piston with lube.


                      Work the outer lip seal into the housing till they come together.


                      Lay the drum sideways and install the assemble forward clutch housing and piston. Wide tab fits in wide slot.


                      Stand drum up and work the inner forward piston seal around till the assembled pieces drop down into the drum.


                      It should bottom out and look like this.


                      Place lip seals on the overrun piston (with lube).


                      and work the piston down into the forward clutch piston.


                      The overrun clutch return spring and snap ring are needed next.


                      A handy little tool will come in a transgo kit. There is a small box with several spring packages and a thick flat washer.


                      The flat washer is used to keep the spring retainer plate from warping under pressure when the springs are compressed.


                      Compress down till you see the snap ring groove.


                      Install snap ring and make sure it's seated all the way around. And is not sitting on top of any of the humps on the spring plate.


                      Next the overrun clutch is needed. two thin steel plates, two friction plates and one thick top pressure plate.


                      Stack em up starting with a thin steel, friction, steel, friction


                      Stop when you get the second friction in.


                      Get all the pieces for the input sprag assembly.


                      Take the inner race and place the sprag washer then the sprag on it and slide it together.


                      Remember, make sure when holding the sprag upright, the notches on the sprag cage will face to the left.


                      You may have to work with it a little. Keep turning the inner race clockwise.


                      And you can push the sprag elements in from the outside to get the pieces together.


                      Once together, it's flush.



                      Install the bottom sprag washer.


                      Overrun clutch hub and snap ring. And set it aside.


                      There is a seal in the kit that looks like this.


                      It pushes into the bottom of the input drum like this.


                      Needed next is a small torrington bearing that has a lip around the outside.


                      With Transgel, place the bearing over the white seal using transgel to hold it in place.


                      Next take the input sprag assembly and place it into the drum aligning the overrun hub with the overrun clutch splines. Seat the sprag till it bottoms out on the bearing.


                      Now come the thick overrun pressure plate.


                      Drops down into the drum. Buck teeth splines fit into narrow notches in the drum.


                      This is a forward clutch cushion plate. Notice the wave pattern.


                      The wave plate goes on top of the overrun pressure plate. Then a flat forward steel plate fits on top of the cushion plate. The angled teeth fit in the wide notches.


                      Stack up the clutches, steel, friction, steel, till you use up all five and end up with a friction plate on top. Then install the thick pressure plate and snap ring.


                      Like this... Ooops. Something is wrong. There is too much clearance in the forward clutch pack. You can tell by the gap between the pressure plate and snap ring.


                      I used too thin of steel plates for the forward clutch. They measured .078.
                      So I got new set of black kolene steel plates.


                      These measure at .090.


                      So I re stacked the forward clutch with the new steels and found it to be much better.


                      Here is what normal 3-4 frictions look like. Friction material on both sides of the plates.


                      I'm using these.


                      Every plate has lining on one side.


                      And bare on the other side.


                      Start off with the thick grooved bottom pressure plate.


                      Install with groove facing up.


                      Then add a plate that has outside splines. The small splines fit in the wide notch in the drum.


                      Then a plate with inside splines. Alternate till you have the one plate with outside splines and the narrow red friction material. It must go on top.



                      The next step is optional. I've been told it's not a bad idea to use them. Late model 4L60E's had five helper springs in the 3-4 clutch pack.


                      They fit in the wide notches in the forward drum.


                      And look like this when installed.


                      Last is the top pressure plate for the 3-4 clutch.


                      And snap ring. The clutch clearance is excellent.


                      Next turn the drum upright and install the selective washer over the input shaft.


                      This small torrington bearing fits on top of the selective washer.



                      Lip facing up.


                      Next come the four teflon rings.


                      One at a time, slide the ring down slightly stretching them with a scribe to get them down over the groove. Put the bottom one on first.


                      The ring is now stretched too large. There are resizing tools available but I'll show the hard way. Massage the ring all the way around. Pushing it back into it's groove the best you can till it shrinks back to almost normal size.


                      Next get the bottom half of the pump that has the stator shaft. Make sure inside the shaft is not all chewed up. This one is in great shape.


                      Use the stator shaft as a resizing tool. Start with the bottom ring. Place the shaft over the ring and gently apply pressure the shaft bottoms out on the drum bearing.


                      If everything is done right, the ring will look normal again.


                      Again, do this one at a time till you get all four done. If you get too crazy, you'll end up with this.


                      But no worries, I have extras.


                      You can save this for last but I'll show it here since is part of the drum. There is an O ring in the kit about the size of a dime.


                      This goes on the very end of the input shaft. Without it, there will be no torque converter clutch operation.


                      That's it for part three. I'll put the stator shaft back down over the teflon rings and let it sit over night.

















                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                        :o

                        Originally posted by IndyShiftman
                        For my next trick, I will attempt to put all this;
                        ...
                        into this
                        I wasn't sure if you could for a moment there ;) Black magic I tell ya. Thanks for sharing.
                        Escaped on a technicality.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                          ah the 700-R4 it holds a special place in my heart. it was the trans i had to rebuild and have it work for me to pass my auto trans class lol :D


                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                            I think I am going to run away from auto trannies for the rest of my days..

                            does rocket science go this far? I doubt it. :
                            Previously boxer3main
                            the death rate and fairy tales cannot kill the nature left behind.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                              After checking with Indy, I have taken Part 1 and created an PDF file of it. This will allow you to make a hard copy of this great info and have it with you, so you don't need to get ATF all of your keyboard.

                              If anyone wants a copy, PM me an email address to send it to. I currently do not have a good place to host the file to download.

                              I will be be putting together Part 2 and 3 in separate PDF's as well. I will let everyone know when they are done.
                              Neal

                              Drag Week 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Re: BANGshift 700R4 rebuild tech part 1

                                Jeff,

                                Question on the Z pack direct clutch - other builders that I know shy away from these clutches and run extra thick klone steels and blue frictions claiming the thicker steels help remove the heat from this shifting clutch.

                                Thoughts?

                                Marc

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