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Bleed my Clutch,,,Help!

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  • Bleed my Clutch,,,Help!

    A couple day ago I was on my home from Lowe's in the GTA and the clutch peddle started going away, were talking 3 miles and three stop lights, then nothing. I think I just let it run low on fluid, but I topped it off before looking to see if it was empty. I have tried bleeding, both gravity and vacuum, still nothing. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I would not think the master would go bad in 5 minutes. I will pull it out tomorrow and try to bench bleed the system. I need to fix this so I can meet up with Chad on Friday in Columbus. I just went 3600mi on Power Tour and no problems. I will try to follow any comments from work tomorrow. This is a 3rd gen Trans Am, for those who don't know me.
    Living the dream!

  • #2
    Buddy, patience is the key to Hydraulic clutch bleeding. Find and fix the leak if you have one. What I have found to work best is bleed the system from the bottom up. Use a "brake bleed" syringe or something that will force fluid. attach vacuum hose to syringe and bleeder, open bleeder with hose attached and force fluid up to Master cylinder. force slave cylinder back into cylinder to try and remove excess air. Exercise clutch pedal until feels normal. Sometimes you need to push on clutch fork with prybar while someone pumps the pedal to get slave cylinder full. Call me if you have any questions, my number is on the Power Tour list, Good Luck.....
    200WINS HRPT Long Haul 2008, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Bettendorf, WI Dells, 15 Champaign, Madison, 16 OK City, Wichita, KC, 17 KC, Newton
    Forum Freaks Road Trip, 2020 Kool Deadwood Nites, 2021 Southernmost Road Trip, 2022 Great Southern Tour

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    • #3
      most hydraulic clutch systems will self-bleed. Find the leak, then bleed the system. That said, I'm pretty sure your system (don't know what year GTA, but all that I know of have this system) doesn't have a bleed valve - you have to replace the entire "system" when the hose fails.

      alternatively, I've heard rumor that you can drill and tap a bleed valve in the slave cylinder.... rumor, I've never seen or done it.

      I have one in my shop, but I can't find the picture of it.... it's one unit.
      Doing it all wrong since 1966

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      • #4
        If it was low on fluid you have a leak and that needs to be addressed before moving on..........

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        • #5
          I ordered a new 1 today from my local gm dealer It should be in tomorrow, they said they would price match from gm parts direct so I'll get an internet price. I'm on my way out to the shop now the bad unit off, Ill let you know what I find.
          Living the dream!

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          • #6
            my bet is it's leaking where the tube enters the slave cylinder.... common, common problem.
            Doing it all wrong since 1966

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            • #7
              To bleed mine, I could not use the bleeder screw. 10,000 pupms would not remove the air. I have a Ford Ranger with a Mustang T5, modified with an external slave.

              Removed the slave, and held it in the engine bay. Removed the line from the slave, filled the slave a burped all the air out, and aheld it still. All the while, the master was basically dripping from the open line (cap on, very slow drip). Carefully mated them together and pinned the line in place.

              Not looking forward to doing that again, and no idea how I would have bled an internal slave.

              Hope yours turns out easier than my Ford!
              1997 Ranger 5.0L HO, GT40 heads/tubular intake, 65mm TB, 1.7rr, B303, Tri-Y headers, dual 2.5" exhaust, Flowmaster mufflers, T5 trans, Tri-Ax shifter, CenterForce Dual Friction clutch, 8.8 Traction Lok 3.55 gears, Cobra 13" front brakes, Cobra 11.65" rear discs.
              1997 Mustang GT
              sigpic


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              • #8
                It appears to have been leaking just above the slave. I have it out now, but I pulled the reservoir off to get it out from behind the booster. The booster is a real PIA to get all 4 nuts off to make room for routing the reservoir up along the firewall. I need to pull it away far enough out to get the new reservoir back up tomorrow. There was not enough room to get the fourth nut off, 2 were easy, one I used a flex extension on a deep well 15mm socket. They all had the bolt protrude too far to use a short socket, a gear wrench was too fat, and no room for the deep well on the last, so today after work I went to HF and bought a set of those through sockets. I think this will do the trick. The only other option I seen was to totally remove the clutch/brake assembly for extra room.

                I am sore today from working upside down with the seat reclined all the way back and my feet hanging in the back seat! Did I say this is a real PIA?
                Living the dream!

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                • #9
                  I didn't mention about how I did my last one.... involved removing the driver's seat, a hole saw, some roofer's tar and a hearty "can't see it from my house"
                  Doing it all wrong since 1966

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